Jjtxaz24

ok, so I been obsessing over this whole shim thing and looking over the FSM. From what I have gathered is there are 2 things that I have to do. 1) measure the valve clearance (so I do that before I even take off the cam) and write the results going off the circled specs. 2) remove the cam and take out the shim and measure the thickness, then replace the shim that is not in tolerance of the original spec. I didn't see the original spec listed like I did for the valve clearance. (yes, I see on there now in the picture that it says to replace after every disassembly) Note: Again, from what I have understood is: 1) measure the valve clearance 2) write the number 3) get the shim thickness 4) find the difference to in the shim and that will get me the new shim measurement to order 5) install the shim and make sure the intake is at .45mm and exhaust is at .38mm. then im good to go to reinstall the cams and move forward, correct?

Learning as I go. Appreciate the help and knowledge ? I'll be using this to help order the shims: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr32/3884-rb26dtt/engine/130/13201H/ Hopefully I don't need to replace all of them. Is it common to replace one or two of them or usually have to replace all of them? $8.75 per shim can get pricey too.

Well not much else I can do then. Trying not to overthink these changes too much, and overcomplicating it. It's pretty simple to do, but I did forget to check the clearances. Dont recall the FSM specifying when to do it just that it had to be done.

They are 18x9.5 dont know the off set though. Not a name brand either. They seem to be an imitation wheel but unable to find the exact make or model of them. Got it. When I searched it I was able to find the right one. No, I did see that in the FSM. Since I have to redo the cams, I'll double check that and make sure it's good. These are the calipers that I will be adding to the fronts to replace the stock ones. I do have a 15mm spacer to clear the wheels and also have 82mm studs (double the size of the stock ones) to make sure I have enough threads to bolt the wheels down. I shaved the left one down to smooth It out and make it look a bit cleaner. Theyre both done now it's just an older picture comparing the original way I got them to how I wanted the. Still have to prep them for paint and then i can throw them on the car.

Yeah, you're right, I'll redo it tomorrow. Gotta find a 41mm socket to tap the gasket on evenly. Ok. I'll look into those bolts. Have the part number off hand or should I just go to a local store and see if they got a high grade bolt same thread pitch and size? EDIT: Nevermind found em: Idler bolt - 08041-07010 Tensioner stud - 13073-V500 Got em ordered so can't finish this up till next week...

I've already removed the stock cams and installed the tomei ones, which is when I put the new cam gaskets in place. It that really sucks lol. I'll have to undo all the cam caps and hope I dont snap one to flip the cam gaskets around and slide them in. I'm just gonna undo them in the reverse order I posted above in the FSM and keep my fingers crossed. I did purchase and replace all the timing belt hardware and timing belt. The belt is a gates racing and the idler, spring and tensioner pulley are OEM Nissan. It's just not tightened down yet cuz I wanted to make sure the cam seals were good. They're not lol.

I had a few hours after getting home from work today and I knocked out the cam install, and put the cam gears on to make sure the timing was right on them. Tomorrow I'll be putting on the timing belt and hopefully wrapping that all up. I do have 3 questions: 1) The nissan cam seals seem to only slide on one way so the path of least resistance is the one I took. Is there only one way they go on? (These are the old ones, not the new ones, I already put the cam backing cover but I can take it off tomorrow if you all need a better pic) I installed them using side A, as in that is facing out towards the front of the engine and side B is the side I slid in facing the rear of the engine Side A: Side B: 2) the gold caps on 3 and 4 (both on intake and exhaust) seem to clear when the cam is rotated. Do I have to leave them on? 3) the spring on the tensioner pulley, one goes into the pulley itself, does the other go to the right of this bolt to make sure it has some spring on it when I tighten it down? Appreciate the help, once I knock out the timing tomorrow I'll be working on the turbos next.

Have you guys installed Tomei cams before? I haven't installed them yet because I'm worried I'm gonna snap em. Thatd be a bad day and a waste of money. Should I follow the torque sequence from the FSM? Heres the instructions that came from Tomei:

What's going on guys. I've been on here for a little while and gotten help from you all but never introduced you to the GTR. 1991 GTR with "63,000 km" on the odometer. I purchased the car this year in March from montu motors. I wanted one that was decent/good looking for a fair price. I knew that I would have to do maintenance on it. Which brings me here now. Heres some pics of the car as they showed it online. overall the condition of the car was fair. I had a local appraiser check it out and value it (needed it for the loan) I drove it around and fixed the minor issues it had (old tires, front cv boots, a misfire that was a bad coil, and overheating issue) as of this friday I put it on jack stands in the garage and have begun some changes. Plan is to swap in some tomei cams, change the timing belt and accessory belts, and rebuild the stock turbos with some non ceramic guts. Never done any of this and taking off the turbos with the engine in the car was a total pain in the ass. Also, have rotors and pads for all 4 wheels. I will be upgrading the calipers in the front for some 350z brembos to make pads and rotors more accessible here in the states. I'll post pics of that later. Gonna try and clean up the engine bay as much as I can and make it look better. I'll post more pics of the progress. stock turbos that came on the 91 GTR. Looks like they never been changed or serviced.

I have the torque wrench so I'm ready for it, it was like 300+ something ft pounds (ill check the manual). Dont think my belt was ever changed. It's not cracked but it was loose. Glad I didn't skip a tooth or something. I had been ripping it around town for a little while.

Got the bolt off. Appreciate the help guys. Since it was an issue breaking it loose will it be an issue to tighten it?

I'll try that today. I just wasn't sure if I could do it with no valve covers, coolant or turbos on. Don't wanna blow the engine or something.

Ok. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Wrapped up for the night worked on it all day. Appreciate the rapid response.

I tried it initially with my wife in the car, foot on the brakes, e brake up and car was in 4th. Didn't try it with it in 5th and the rest. I took the valve covers off cuz I was gonna repaint them and also have the turbo side off cuz Im going to rebuild the. Dont think I'll be able to bump it to brake the bolt loose.

Sorry to revive this thread but I ran into a snag. I got everything off and I'm trying to take off the crank pulley. I read and saw on videos to put the car in 5th and hand brake up. Everytime I try and remove the bolt it just turns everything counter clockwise. Am I missing something?

I ended up returning the (canceled the order on the FC) and found a couple places here in the US that offered the NIStune. I ordered that and should be here this week. My question is. Without having added or done anything besides installing the board onto the ECU and plugging it back into the car. Would I still be able to drive it as normal? Theoretically, I feel I'd be able to plug it in and still drive the car, but if not I do have the software and the consult cable to be able to see my ECU. I dont know how to tune with the NIStune but I have been looking over the website and saw they have various PDFs with tons of info. Basically what I got from it would be just to watch knock and adjust fuel trim since I didnt change anything on my MAFs or injectors and not doing e85.

https://theluckyjune.com/product/elite-2000-plug-n-play-adaptor-harness-ecu-kit-nissan-skyline-r32-33-gts-t-gt-r-r34-gt-r/ Found this one... about $1,000 the next one up is $1,252

I had bought the PFC for 600 shipped, not realizing I'd have to invest 300 more into the datalogit. Thanks for the link.

There was no need to assume I stated I was from the US in my 2nd reply. Honestly when I looked the HKS BOV is all that came up. I like it. It does what BOV do lol. I think a fuel pump is next as part of my maintenance plan. Over the weekend I'll post up a thread on my GTR. It's pretty nice but when you get down into it she needs the details. So nistune good then? Aside from Haltech. What else can I get?

Good news. I was able to cancel the order and receive a full refund. So.... nistune? List of current mods is not much: 1991 GTR Intakes, down pipe, ARC exhaust, and HKS BOV.

I see them for sale all the time but the price is still a pretty decent (not cheaper than 800 USD for ECU and controller). I havent heard much or anything about nistune (looked into it a bit, I know its cheap) and all the post I found on it were from like 2011 or older. I'm aware of haltech and that's a pricey piece. Like I said I wasnt looking to make big numbers and didnt really care for ethenal. Highest gas we have here is 91 octane. I'm happy with that and some minor bolt ons, my focus was still gonna be on maintaining the car. Needs some more love on that.

Well dam. A fraction of the price and had just what I needed. Hope it the PFC sells as fast as I bought it for.

Didn't see a price on the website but I sent them an email.

I realize it was a bit older. I'm not gonna build the car all out. I wanna have a little more HP on tap and hang with the locals around here (lot of domestics Mustangs and Camaros that run their mouth) I want to rebuild the stock turbos with some good turbines or if I can find some other turbos for a good price I'll go that route, add a set of cams, a good, less restrictive exhaust and that's about it. I still need lot of maintenance on it to make sure it's a solid daily driver. It was what was affordable and within the budget for me to be able to start getting some fun parts into the GTR. I also saw the Nistune (seems like it's really out dated too) and a guy here locally said he could tune with that one after I had purchased the PFC. I'm located in the US by the way. Ok so I have the proper and "current" software. I'll look into that FCHacko interface cable.

Hey guys. Had a question on the Apexi PFC. Picked one up and it's on the way. I have found the software through the forums, but unsure if the version 2.132 is the most up to date. Is it? 2nd question is do I absolutely need the FC Datalogit to have the Apexi PFC interface with the computer/software and the cable to be able to tune it? Appreciate the help in advance.