Dabro

To match the intercooler inlet/outlet sizes, why else.

Hey all, Need Front mount intercooler piping/hose's/clamp's for R32 GTS-T. Anything reasonable considered but nust be 3'' or larger. Cheers Perrin

All, I am going away for a week from tomorrow. Answer to all questions and PM's so far is yes everthing asked for is available.except I'm not to sure on what the projector headlights are. These have a rectangular inner light and a round style outer light. It is a 94 model car if that helps. I will answer all PM's when I get back and if you are still interested I can start stripping parts on the weekend of the 17-18th Cheers Perrin

Just remembered the wrecked car has lowered king springs (50 or 60mm) and near new bilsteins in the front, only done a couple of thousand km's. they are quite hard I didn't like them on the street. Will take pics

Yeah got both will take pics

yeah got one, its wine red. I am in sydney west. $100 Will need to look at it I think it has minor damage to R/H side at mount near wheel arch.

I think so, are they not all the same? I have swapped a GTR one with a GTST before with no prob's. Anyway yeah I think I have one, will look for you.

32 GTR Parts Cams and Buckets good condition $350 AFM x2 Were working sweet when removed $50 each Wrecking damaged R32 GTS-T Coupe. Keeping running gear for GTS conversion, most other parts available. PM for what you need and I will try to help. Complete RB25-DE engine with flywheel and low Km's clutch $1250. Runs sweet, doesnt smoke. Approx 170,000km's Has weaping welsh plug under exhaust manifold that needs changing. Non VVT. No injectors or rail. Bare RB20DET head $100 RB20DET bottom end in Pieces, has one melted piston. $200 Crank and cylinder bores ok from memory. Ignition crank angle sensor $80 PM any questions Thanks Perrin

Hi All, Im after a 32 GTR Factory airbox in sydney. Prefer something local so I can just meet up or collect it. pretty keen so if you have one around and need cash I will make time to get it ASAP. Cheers Dabro

It's probably worth taking the time replace the oil filter and cut the old one to check the paper inside for any bearing metal or contamination. As you said it is a fresh engine and although its a bummer sometimes things dont always go to plan. If its a RB30 pump it wont take much extra clearance to drop the oil pressure especially at idle when pump speed is low. Speaking of pump speed what is your idle rpm? Anyway if its all clear and you dont find anything it will also go a long way to calming your nerves about your new engine, it only takes five minutes after the filters off. If you have just done a filter do a bit more driving just to make sure it has some time to pick anything up that may be there or cut the old one of you still have it. Dabro

Good to hear, I have the -5's as well and am just fitting some mines cams and 700cc injectors now. Allready have support mods so would be happy with some figures like that. Will see how it goes Thanks for the info, Also I havent found the -5's to laggy at all in fact it pulls like a truck that just happens to have a 8,500 rpm Limit. Cheers Dabro

Do yourself a favor and put a good direct reading gauge into a gallery on the side of the block then see what you have. Sometimes these issues can be hard enough without worring about how sensitive or accurate your electric gauge is. Im not sure what your original problem was but dont forget that the factory oil pressure gauges are notoriously unreliable. My GTR occasionally idles at zero on the gauge but I know it has oil pressure. In saying that 5lb's with cold oil is very low so you should definatelly find out what its really doing just in case. If its a fresh build you have paid for at a workshop put the direct reading gauge on it so you know whether its actually has a problem. If so go back to your engine builder and talk to him, if not fix your gauge. Dabro

Yep, Thats what it looks like.

You are correct, I was really just tackling the harmonics question, theres always more that can be added. Oil issues are another conversation but are very common. Interesting point on the piston speeds though, Have you done any numbers on the comparison RB30VrsRB26? Also why rev an RB?? We all the answer to that, they are one of the best sounding engines out there when on song and running well and sometimes you dont need the faster acceleration! I cant really see much difference between instant loss of licence and instant loss of licence, Remember I was talking street cars, RB30DET/DETT's have a natural tendancy to be plenty fast enough for the street no matter what the configuration unless the whole setup is out of whack completely. Track/strip cars are a different kettle of fish where accelleration, speed and handling are the sole goals. I want my revs, midrange pull (remember you can always shortshift if you want) , creature comforts and some reasonable fuel economy (if thats ever going to be possible again) all packaged in a quick, nice sounding and reliable daily driver hitting 7,000 rpm just for fun and sounding so sweet with some cubes behind it. Dabro

Scooby, Harmonics will break a crank or could possibly cause early failure of the big end bearings after periods of sustained operation or extremely high load like in a drag or higher reving track car. The main limitation of the RB30 with revs will not be a harmincs problem but an physical overload issue caused by the longer stroke and higher piston speeds of the RB30 bottom end. How many people do you know who have actually broken a crank in a nissan? or any late model engine for that matter. much more likely you know ten who have thrown a rod out the side of a block!! generally this is due to a catastrophic failure due to overload I,E huge H.P or over reving, especially during a downchange through the gears. Do some numbers on the difference in intertial loads and piston speeds with RB25/26 versus RB30 and you will quickly get the idea. The end result of this is not a harmonics problem but a damn good reason to put a decent set of pistons and rods (read stronger) in if you want to rev it. Anyway back to your original comment, I have built a RB30DET for a friend that has a 7000rpm limit (Rb25 harmonic balancer fitted) and is a daily driver. Considering that even if driven fairly hard it will only see the limiter a dozen or so times a week for short bursts there is no reason for it not to live a long and happily thrashed life. Harmonic problems in any stucture are only an issue when the frequncy remains CONSTANT! at a level which provides an amplitude which is detrimental to the structure, either continous or increasing due to it matching the natural resonance of the structure. This on a street car almost never happens as we are constantly changing gears and the engine speed changes with it. Also the engineers who design the crankshafts deliberatelly position the natural resonate frequency out of the normal operating range of the engine. 7000rpm and higher limiters for the RB30 are certainly not out of the question for a street driven engine, Just remeber what your driving when trying to decide how long to hold that third gear pull onto the freeway and you might want to lower it to be safe for track days if using more than 7000. Dabro

Hi all, I'm thinking of putting the mines 252/252 10.05mm Shore pro II camshaft and lifter kit in my RB26. Is anyone out there running mines camshafts and if so what do they think? I have spent a fair bit of time looking around the net but havent really come up with anything on them, not even any dyno results etc! Cheers in advance Dabro

I had wondered that myself!!

Any idea of seat pressure?

I am building a RB30 Twincam Turbo. Does anyone know the standard seat pressure of the RB25de valvesprings compared to Det or GTR.

Anybody know the seat pressure of standard gtr valvesprings?