rb30dett

Location?

keep the 25 shift kit the auto add bolt ons then when time to rebuild go the 30/25 I love the rb30 behind a good auto rb25/30 + t67-25g, 3k stalled auto FTW?

I had a guy in another stagea wave to me as he passed by while I was waiting to enter the traffic last week, but he hasn't come on here and spotted me:( 8years without being spotted on here is that a record?

There are several changes you need to make and to get everything working as it should will depend on the rs4 ecu that you have. There were 3 ecu's used on the rs4 all have minor changes in pinouts the problem is nobody knows what ecu was used when the translated pinout was made so I suggest you probe out all pins on the 2 harness plugs before you change them just to confirm the diagram is correct. Don't plug the loom in as suggested, you will blow fuses and relays, test the pinouts first then you will see what needs changing its far too much to remember for me but from memory you will need to change the following. ABS harness injector resistor power supply (do you have it?) ECCS relay power (12v bat) ECU earth IGN/START Fuel Pump power That should get it running, probe the RS4 harness for these then swap out the pins or make a few cuts & joins on the 2 harness plugs on the gtr loom after you swap out the abs loom for the rs4 loom make sure you get the tps signal for abs/altessa. Lot more difficult than what is suggested. Good luck.

You need to deside what you want to do 1st because you will need to change a few things and retune to run e85 remember the mods to the fuel pump cradle are ireversible.

none at all worked for me for 3 years, I only went ext surge so I could run twin 044 pumps if you only need 1 pump this is the best option. Fittings for 044 cost $25-30 they were on ebay when I did mine.

Whats your location/

I live in an area with shit roads and run Tein's and they are fine. So you have RS4 rear shocks that you want to use on an RS4S? if so just change the rear hubs to RS4 you will need to press out the hicas ball joints and swap them to the RS4 hubs, not an easy job. New ball joints are a rip off $130ish ea. There are other rack ends available that delete the ball joint and use a bush, I would convert to these. Your other iption would be to buy a pair of rear R33 gtr coilovers and swap the springs & tops etc, either way will cost $$$

I think ALSD was an option on RWD only but could be wrong, if you dont have the lines going to your diff then it will be viscous. All stagea lsd's that I have seen were viscous only 260rs had mechanical lsd. The rs4s diff is a gtst 5 bolt center in a stagea housing, 260rs is an r32/33 (non V spec) mec diff in a stagea housing. Stagea housing is unique due to the mounting of the Altessa pump.

So because you think you may have a front lsd you claim all rs4s stagea's came equiped with one! for the record I doubt you have one.

No stagea came with a front lsd.

Get an SP1-2 they are great bikes, firestorm runs out of puff too early on track.

Care to share more details?

LOL I have done everything. But now it's too painfull to drive on street so I may go in a different direction.

#4: Yes I stumbled onto a complete z32 rear at an importers and realised they were the same width of the rs4 auto. The z32tt had a viscus lsd and axles were same size (thickness as GTR) & 6 bolt. They look like a rs4 rear with r32 control arms & hubs etc. Go to an importers and measure for yourself Don't just take my word. Again don't get active lsd axles either. #5 everything will need changing. Not imposible but I just don't see the point? its your car mate so go for it if it works out let us know. IMO the time & money would be better spent in other areas and would provide more bang for your buck etc.

+1

yes yes yes yes, but rs4 (auto) rear cradles are wider so gtr axles are too short to use on rs4 cradles. not worth the trouble, very little to gain. See question 1

Ok you can use the GTR center in the rs4 housing with the rs4 gearing. So altessa pump mount is kept etc, the larger gtr cover can be used with minor mods to fit (grinder) Use the 6 bolt (non vspec) axles and a narrow cradle ie s14 non hicas. No need to change the hubs as Kiwi has said so no need to change to fork suspension. But you may aswell as you have the suspension. Use R33-34 gtr hubs If you want to keep the wider cradle you need to use z32tt axles as they have the wider track like the rs4, axles are 6 bolt on tt and 5 bolt on non turbo. When you replace the cradle bushes use gtst not gtr bushes because the gtr's are longer. IMO with the parts you have allready just run spacers on the rear if you need too.

Yes there is an easier way but as you have purchased all the other parts anyway its too late. You will be redusing your rear track width so your current wheel offset may be an issue but you will be able to run more dish What hubs & half shafts are you going to use?

I threw up in my mouth

Ok I confess I have a problem, lol. All still current. The XY has been locked away for over 12years after the last theft attempt.

Looks like a genuine Garrett but those manifolds are crap. Your call really but it looks to be about 2k worth of parts being sold for $2600.00.

Does she have a sister?

Thread title fail.

Oh and I say its easier because its less work than a conversion, if you don't have the mechanical knowledge don't attempt it I have flashbacks to chefs timing belt of death.