gts25

hey martin, i checked the valve, i can push it with my thumb but its quite stiff.... jason

the bov is plumbed after the throttle into the top of the inlet manifold, towards the rear. is this not the correct location? the na manifold has only 1 vacum port in this location for the charcoal canister and the gtst manifold has an additional one for the bov

Hey Martin, I didn't try pushing the valve - will check and come back to you Thanks for your help Jason

Hey Martin, I have it plumbed in as it should be - from the bov air nipple into the metal air that's bolted under the intake pipe (to throttle body) and from the other end of this pipe into the top of the inlet manifold towards the back (where the charcoal canister line used to plumb into on the NA setup). Does this make sense? I don't have a spare bov to try but am trying to get hold of a gtr one Jason

Hi Guy's, As mentioned I did DE+T conversion on my R32 gts25 last year using rb20det parts and have been happy with the results. However I think I have a problem with the factory bov. With the bov plumbed in correctly to the inlet manifold the car is sluggish (basically feels like a na, with a little more power). As a test I plumbed the bov into a smaller (ie thinner) vacum port and the car drives like a completely different car. Boost is strong and the car pulls hard through all the gears. There is the sound of compressor surge sometimes as I close the throttle. I expected this though and confirms the bov is not working as it does not have a proper source of vacum. Sure enough when I revert back to the correct setup (plumbed with the correct hose direct into inlet manifold) the car is sluggish again. The bov must be opening on throttle. Also to add I don't have a boost gauge as yet so not sure what's happening boost wise. So the question I have is - should the factory bov be able to handle the increased flow of the na engine plus the turbo (I am using a standard rb20 turbo) or can it only handle the factory turbo setup? Would I best fitting an aftermarket plumback bov (like a turbosmart kompact)? I have also removed the bov and inspected and it seems fine (though there is not much to check) Cheers Jason

thanks josh will try the rb25 ecu first and if the results are not favourable will look into a tune. will let you know how i go jase

Josh - just to clarify I am using and RB20DET ECU not an RB20DE ECU Jase

Yep I used ad RB20 ECU - the pinouts are exactly the same except for the fuel control pump modulator which my car being a non-turbo does not have (i am actually thinking about wiring this in to my car). Everything is stock and has not been tuned. I used the RB20 ECU as I thought the fuel maps would better suited to a turbo. Perhaps I should revert back to my RB25DE CPU and see how the fuel economy is. Not fussed by the whistle sound (sounds great!) as long as it isn't an issue. Jase

Hi, Not giving the car a hard time - was on the freeway so mostly cruising. I did re-connect the 02 sensor. I don't have a boost gauge fitted yet so hard to tell what the boost is doing but I did notice that the cruising RPM on the freeway is around 2000 rpm (which my car was on before conversion also) which is around the same RPM that the turbo comes on boost (only gauging by the whistle). However the turbo does not constantly whistle Jason

Hi, Not giving the car a hard time - was on the freeway so mostly cruising. I did re-connect the 02 sensor. I don't have a boost gauge fitted yet so hard to tell what the boost is doing but I did notice that the cruising RPM on the freeway is around 2000 rpm (which my car was on before conversion also) which is around the same RPM that the turbo comes on boost (only gauging by the whistle). However the turbo does not constantly whistle Jason

thanks, yes i am already thinking about more power. I have a 3" Apexi exhaust that i will fit soon. I have An issue though - i have done 300km of freeway driving (first drive since conversipn) and fuel economy is pretty poor. On this trip i used almost three quarters of a tank, which doesn't sound right. Not sure if its related but when the turbo comes on boost at 2000rpm there is quite an audible turbo whistle. This only occurs under load. If i rev the engine to 2000rpm in park there is no whistle. I have checked all inlet pipes and hoses and everything is nice and tight and i can see no possible places where there could be leaks. The engine does not seem to be running rich (no black tailpipe) and the car idles fine and no issues when driving. Does anyone have any ideas? Is fuel economy like this normal? Should the turbo whistle? Is the ECU still learning and perhaps explains the poor fuel economy? Jason

Hi Guy's, I have just completed my NA + T conversion on my R32 and am chuffed with the results. Here is my setup: 1992 R32 GTS25 - standard RB25DE R32 GTS-T side mount intercooler and standard pipework RB20 turbo and standard oil/water lines Standard Exhaust system NGK BKR7E plugs RB20 ECU Install was straightforward (though time consuming) and the only custom work required was to cut the body for the intercooler pipes and to cut and tee into the heater hose line for the water return from the turbo. I was lucky to have purchased a complete running 1993 R32 GTST that could not be complied that I have been using parts (having previously used for 5 stud conversion). This made it easy to refer to the how the setup works. Performance is great and the car is fun to drive - I have only done an initial drive to make sure all is well but I think the turbo will run out of puff high in the rev range (due to the small turbo I presume). I have taken photos of every step and intend to put together a D.I.Y guide Jason

Hi Guy's, I have just completed my NA + T conversion on my R32 and am chuffed with the results. Here is my setup: 1992 R32 GTS25 - standard RB25DE R32 GTS-T side mount intercooler and standard pipework RB20 turbo and standard oil/water lines Standard Exhaust system NGK BKR7E plugs RB20 ECU Install was straightforward (though time consuming) and the only custom work required was to cut the body for the intercooler pipes and to cut and tee into the heater hose line for the water return from the turbo. I was lucky to have purchased a complete running 1993 R32 GTST that could not be complied that I have been using parts (having previously used for 5 stud conversion). This made it easy to refer to the how the setup works. Performance is great and the car is fun to drive - I have only done an initial drive to make sure all is well but I think the turbo will run out of puff high in the rev range (due to the small turbo I presume). I have taken photos of every step and intend to put together a D.I.Y guide Jason

great thanks dan, will pickup a set of these plugs. will post up details of my conversion and how it goes when finished soon

Hi all, I am currently in the middle of turboing my R32 RB25DE using R32 RB20 parts. I am unsure what spark plugs are the best to use. From what i have read in this thread most people have used plugs with a heat range of 7 but if I check the NGK website, the NA RB25DE uses plugs with a heat range of 5 and the RB20DET uses a heat range of 6. Does anyone know why I should be using plugs with a heat range of 7 instead of 6 (as per standard for turbo) Thanks Jason

Hi all, I am currently in the middle of turboing my R32 RB25DE using R32 RB20 parts. I am unsure what spark plugs are the best to use. From what i have read in this thread most people have used plugs with a heat range of 7 but if I check the NGK website, the NA RB25DE uses plugs with a heat range of 5 and the RB20DET uses a heat range of 6. Does anyone know why I should be using plugs with a heat range of 7 instead of 6 (as per standard for turbo) Thanks Jason

bump

Price drop to $100. They have to go - it would be a shame to throw them out Jason

Hi Chris, It is a sedan Jason

Hi Guy's, I have a set of front and rear R32 seats that are in immaculate condition. They are grey cloth seats and are immaculate (removed from my own car) Taking too much room in the house and have to go $150 the lot Pickup only from Wollongong NSW Jason

Guy's, Front brake assemblies and seats are still available for sale. Make me an offer - seats are in immaculate condition Jason

Hi fatz, I don't have one unfortunately Jason

Guy's, Seats and Brakes still available for sale Willing to possibly separate brakes components (calipers, rotors etc) Jason

Guy's, Wheels sold Seats and brakes still available Jason

Hi NZM.031, I will suss it out and let you know Jase