gts25

Hi GTS-T_Sedan, I believe I do. I will check and let you know Jason

Hey Guy's, Seats, Brakes and Wheels still available for sale Open to Offers Jason

No worries CeJay - good to meet up Jase

Hey Guys Most of these parts are still available Make me an offer Jase

Sorry no - the whole unit is only going for $30

parts still available Offers considered Jason

Parts still available for sale. Also open to offers Jason

You have a PM

Parts still available for sale. Please not that I have a donor R32 GTS-T sedan - if there is a part you are after let me know via PM and I will see if I have it Jason

Dash surround sold All other parts still available Jason

Hi Yidz, You have a PM Jason

Here's some photos of the parts

R32 Skyline Parts for Sale -Front brake assembly including top and bottom control arms, 4 stud hubs, rotors, calipers, Bendix pads and brake lines. $200 pair - Original 4 stud wheels. Also suit 180sx, Silvia and Pulsar. Tyres need replacing $200 set - Original Nissan radio $30 - Dash/console surround with cigarette lighter and ash try $50 - GTS-T 4-door door trims with velour trim $100 set - Centre console $30 - Lower dash trim (under steering column) $50 - Lower left hand corner of dash $10 - Kick Panels $20 pair - Boot opener $10 - Roof handles$10 pair - 4-door rear seats with grey cloth trim. In unmarked condition $100 - Matching front seats in unmarked condition $150 pair Can email pics as currently having problems uploading them. Parts available for pickup in Wollongong NSW. Smaller items can be posted Jason

Hi Guy's, Good news - I have fixed the problem - almost embrassed to say what it was. I installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides (left on right side of car, right on left side of car). Whilst the calipers are exactly the same and fit on either side regardless, installing them on the incorrect side puts the bleeder valve on the bottom of the caliper. The bleeder valve needs to be at the top of the caliper assembly. Although I have bleed the calipers numerous times a pocket of air was being forced to the top of the caliper... Once installed the correct way round and bleed again, pedal is back to normal - wohoo Btw - existing master cylinder and booster seem up to the task for the larger calipers Thanks guy's for all your suggestions Jason

thanks for your thoughts guy's I will check if fluid levels drop but I believe it does not and we have checked for leaks. Could we be bleeding incorrectly? We used the method described in the workshop manual - open bleeder nipple, attach clear hose immersed in jar of fluid, press brake pedal and release, wait 3 secs, repeat until most of reservoir is empty, top up reservoir. We are only getting fluid coming through the hose and no air I have used DOT3 as this is recommended for use on the top of the reservoir cap Jason

Hi Guy's, Currently having a problem with my R32. I have completed a conversion from 4 stud hubs and non-turbo brakes to 5-stud and GTS-T brakes. I have done the following: - replaced front hubs, fitted new rotors, pads and calipers. Replaced brake fluid with new DOT 3 fluid. Bleed the brakes and beeded in the brakes with no problems. Pedal travel felt fine and brakes pulled up with no problems - I then replaced the rear hubs, rotors, pad and calipers. Replaced brake fluid and bleed brakes. Now when pressing pedal, takes a few pumps to build up pressure. When car is running the pedal goes to floor and I cannot build up pressure with the pedal. Found out that I bleed the brakes in the wrong order and bled them again - RL, RR, FL. FR. Bleeding the brakes the second time did remove some more air and I am confident that there is no air is left in the lines. At no stage was the brake fluid resoviour emptied completely. Is it possible that in pushing the pedal completely to floor when bleeding could I have possibly damaged the seals in the master cylinder causing loss of pressure or could it be that I still have air in the line? Thanks in advance Jason

Thanks Sydney Kid - that helps immensely. I will check the fuel lines - I never thought about this. My original pump hasn't failed as such, it occassionally jams and doesn't pump. A knock on the fuel tank would get it going..... I take it the one way valve is internal to the pump? I don't recall seeing a valve on the outside of the pump. The pumps are also sealed and not easily dissambled. Would it be suitable to install a one-way valve in the fuel line close to the pump? If so will any type be ok or do I require a specific valve? Jason

Hi Guy's, Wondering if anyone can lend any thoughts to a problem I am currently having. I have an R32 GTS25 (RB25DE) standard with no mods. A couple of months ago I had a problem with my fuel pump jamming. I purchased a new JECS fuel pump which is identical to the original one. Since then I have had some intermittent problems with starting the car. When the problem occurs, the pump primes on ignition but does not start. When the key is released, the pump primes again and the problem repeats itself in this manner (prime, not start, prime) until the car finally starts - it usually takes 6 - 8 attempts. Also on some occassions when the car finally starts the idle is very bad and the car will stall - pressing on the accelarator does not get any response from the engine (ie the engine does not rev). I have noticed that when the car starts normally the priming sound is different to that of when I have the problem. I hear the normal priming sound but at the end of this I here a prime of a higher pitch. I take it this is when the pump is reaching the maximum required pressure I take it I have a pressure issue. So far I have done the following to troubleshoot: - New fuel pump relay - New battery - New fuel filter As yet I have not changed over the fuel regulator. From what I understand about fuel regulators, they are a vacum operated unit with a spring diaphram. Is it possible for it to occassionally to jam open stopping the right pressure from building. Has anyone seen this before? I also have a R32 GTS-t (RB20DET) which I can swap parts over to test. Is the standard regulator from this the same as that of the RB25DE or is it of a higher pressure If anyone has any suggestions/ideas it would be much appreciated as this is getting very frustrating.... Thanks Jason