elohim_imanu

I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available. 5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.

Anybody know the exact dimensions of the OEM o-ring for the RB25 oil pickup? I know you can buy them, but it is probably going to hold up the build by about a week. Surely the correct size generic o-ring would be ok.

Yes, that is what I was thinking (all adding up), but good to know I am not the only one and it is not abnormal, as such. Just annoying as anything and I wonder what it is doing for my gearbox. I tried buying some band new heavy duty half shafts, but they had more play in them than mine.

I am trying to chase what feels like too much backlash. I have had the diff professionally adjusted with new bearings, the gearbox is brand new, as is the Nismo sports clutch. New subframe bushes, new shocks, and diff mount bushes. The I am pretty sure it is not the drive shaft, the U joints are sweet. But when I go off and back on the accelerator and with some gear changes, the drive train clunks. Is this below movement normal? I can see a little rotational movement with the half shafts. The wheels are on the ground. I have manual converted the car, changing diff, drive shaft and axels also. IMG_0603.mp4

Yes, but this was out of balance brand new.

It was indeed the pressure plate, which needed balancing. Nismo!!

Most of my play is in the half shafts. What do people do about this? OEM are pretty expensive. Like $1,600 each. I can rotate a wheel about 15-20mm at the outside of the tyre, is this too much?

Something to keep an eye out for is that there is a mounting hole for the painted light cover. There is a rubber grommet under the mount where the screw is. I found one of my lights leaking through this hole. So I used the above mentioned mastic to seal both side of the mount.

Actually I mean this one, after a check. (the 90 was for the diff) 🤣 Is this bad? I was surprised to see the amount of tiny steel shavings when I drained it after about 150ks, due to the clutch balance problem. Since I do not race and I am not pumping high HP through, it is this oil a good choice and how often do I change it? We are only talking a few thousand ks a year.

I am running Penrite 85-90 full synthetic. He reckoned I should not play with difference oils. As I saw someone comment that they think the synchro's in these like mineral oil more.

Or to be a bit more specific. The 5 speed gearboxes that are built to take the RB25DET (turbo engines). The R33 GTS-T and the R34 GT-T came with them. Also the 300ZX Twin turbos, came with a similar gearset. A modern version is the CD009, which comes on the 350-370Z, 6 speed. They physically look stronger better made with extra gussets etc. Basically these are the go to gearbox for people wanting a reliable gearbox for high HP applications. By the way I had mine checked by a local mechanic and he thinks it is fine, just needs some more miles to be clocked up on it. The vibration was due the the Nismo pressure plate being out of balance. Had to pull it out and get it balanced along with the brand new billet steel flywheel. I would have thought they should be good from the factory already.

Yes, I do notice that when in gear the idle raises, cause I plumbed up the neutral switch. That is when I feel the miss/vibration the most. Anything else that I should be concerned about? But I am going to clean the IACV.

Yeh, I thought about that. What difference will it make?

Thanks for the feedback guys. Yeh, the timing does jump to 15-20, when you take it up past idle. This was taken on idle. It does have a high idle sometimes. GTSBoy are you saying that IACV is faulty then? Any way to test this? Cheers

Cleaned the AFM and throttle body. Still no change. I am starting to wonder if the flywheel or pressure plate is out of balance and what I am feeling is a vibration. It does increase with revs and there is a small vibration on the clutch pedal in the high revs.

Thanks. I will clean it and check the wiring. But I have not changed it during the conversion. I think it is OG. I wish I had a boost solenoid. NA. It does rev right out. It is just missing a bit and feels like a vibration in the lower revs.

So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500. The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion. 1. Changed the plugs 2. Coil packs are brand new 3. Unplugged coils one by one, they all display similar behaviour 4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything change 5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal. 6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage. 7. Swapped CAS with another good one 8. Resistance check the coil loom 9. The battery was disconnected for weeks during the conversion, so the ECU has been reset. I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none. I am running out of ideas. PS It is a N/A

So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500. The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion. 1. Changed the plugs 2. Coil packs are brand new 3. Unplugged coils one by one, nothing seems to change 4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything 5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal. 6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage. I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none.

Just put in a brand new RB25DET big box, auto conversion. Last time I drove manual was my 260Z, 15 years ago. But this box seems a bit notchy shifting up. Are new gearboxes like this? Do they have a break in period? Also noticed a vibration on the clutch pedal when shifting close to red line. It is R34 box, with a pull clutch. I installed a new Nismo sports clutch with a slightly lighter flywheel. I am running Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90. Cheers

This is correct.

Did you get this sorted? I am in the same position. R34 bigbox with a pull clutch and a R33 master. Pedal basically drops to the almost the floor then starts working. Does not return under its own power. This is a new build as such, conversion from auto. I am pretty sure I have bleed the master and slave, at least I can not get any more air out.

This is interesting, suggests there is a correct orientation for the flywheel. To which the dowel will assist in getting it right. So as long as you align the dowel holes should be all good, right? https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2009/08/dowel-pin-alignment-caution-for-nissan-engines/

I ended up buying this one. https://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-5-speed-manual-transmission-er34-rb25det.html I have just taken delivery of it. With the current exchange rates, shipping, and GST, it came to about $4k NZD. Shipping took only 14 days once they had it in stock. Delivered to my door. But I did have to wait about two months for it be in stock. It was fine, as that was roughly the date specified when I ordered. What you see on the website is exactly what you get, pull clutch setup. OEM parts to convert come to about $330 NZD. But I got a Nismo pull clutch to go with it (on top of the $4k)

Is there a difference between a push and pull clutch flywheel? I am looking for one to match a R34 big box that is original, ie pull. Putting in a Nismo sports single plate organic.

Thanks. I was not sure if there was some sort of fluid transfer difference.