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Hi all, Looking to upgrade to r35 coils from stock. I see that these can be run on GT-R and GTTs, but can they also be run on an NA RB25 Neo? I don't see why I wouldn't be able to since GT/GTT are so similar but wanted to double check. Cheers

Thanks, I kind of suspected it's on it's way out. I gave it a clean a while ago, but still seems to have the same issue

Hey all, I've been hearing some weird buzzing from my IACV lately. Whenever i turn the ignition to ON, it starts to buzz. When I pulled the IACV off to see what it's doing, I noticed the valve is moving back and forth just ever so slightly. Check the video below: I'm not sure if the valve is trying to open itself all the way and is getting stuck or if it should only open halfway like that. Any idea if the IACV is on it's way out? My car does idle higher than it should be, so wondering if faulty IACV may causing it.

Hmm okay, good think I checked. @GTSBoy I guess I'll test the circuit the old fashioned way with a multimeter. Ill trace from the ECU to the fuse and then from the fuse to the IACV. Do you know what fuse #14 would be on this diagram? I assume it is the 14th fuse counting from left to right, top to bottom on the kick panel fuse box.

Hey All, My car is idling a bit high when warmed up and seems to be stuck in "cold mode". (bad fuel economy) I noticed when my car is set to ON position, the IACV/AAC valve is getting less than 12v. Seems like there is maybe something wrong with the circuit. I'd like to see what happens to the AAC valve when it's getting all 12v when the car is running. I'm a bit of a noob at electrical, how would i go about doing that? Is it as easy as running a wire from the +ve end of the battery to the +ve end of the valve, and then running another wire from the -ve end of the valve, back to the -ve end of the battery, and then starting the car? I don't really wanna fry anything, so thought i would double check by asking here. Thanks!

Hey All, wanted to revive this thread again. Just checking to make sure my IACV is functioning properly. When I put the key to the on position, my IACV valve seems to buzz and not fully open all the way. Is this normal? It also sorta moves back and forth just slightly as if it's stuck or something.

@joshuaho96 sounds good. Where did you get that repair manual? I think that's different than the workshop manual?

Ahh, didnt think it may be a connection issue with the laptop, but that's probably right. I'll double check the connection next time. Is there any way to figure out if the coolant thermostat on the iacv is working correctly?

Yesterday I adjusted my base idle and set my TPS. Im still getting 5* ignition timing on warm up. A few things I did notice yesterday tho was, when I put my key to On, my IACV starts buzzing. I cleaned it again and also captured a video of what its doing when it gets power. Is this normal for these things to buzz? I also took some logs of my car while idling, I noticed occasionally in the software that all the guages would just end up going to 0 for a few milliseconds, and then return back to normal. Does this mean a short somewhere? Or is it likely that its just a software bug. First time I've ever seen this and I've used datascan quite a bit. IMG_3616.MOV

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I assume you mean by adjusting the idle screw?

@BK @TurboTapinWas having similar frustrations with Amayama. I tried to order a while ago, but they quoted me $1500 to ship to Canada, and there was a 3.5 month lead time -_- @GTSBoy @Dose Pipe Sutututu I fixed up the rubber boot, but still seeing the timing go way back to 5* on warm up. I hooked up my smoke machine again and I see it's still lightly leaking from that area. I may try some heat shielding tape to really seal off that area for now just to see if that makes any different.

cool, thanks guys. ill let you know if it fixes the issue!

ok, I bought a smoke machine thanks to recommendations from @Dose Pipe Sutututu and found a leak instantly. Looks like the gasket between the throttle body and intake is cracked and possibly letting air in/out. Since shipping times are slow as hell from Japan, what would be the best way to repair this temporarily?

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I dont have a smoke tester. Maybe I should go invest in one... I tried checking my exhaust mainfold for leaks, seems fine. Took a look at my IACV, pretty clean, so doesnt seem to be an issue. I also remove my exhaust and checked the cat, hasn't disintegrated and doesnt seem clogged. Anybody have any idea what to check next?

Spent some time spraying carby cleaner around the engine yesterday, but wasn't able to find any leaks. checked around intake valve body, intake manifold, injectors, vacuum lines, breather hoses. Ill be checking my exhaust manifold for leaks, iacv and carb tomorrow.

@GTSBoy Makes sense. I'll give the carby cleaner method a try, I'm probably missing a leak somewhere. Any areas I shouldn't spray around? I assume near the spark plugs as it could ignite. I'll also take a look at the IACV and make sure it's clean. I did however clean that out fairly recently. @Dose Pipe Sutututu I did take a look at exhaust leaks and there doesn't seem to be one. I sprayed soapy-water up near the exhaust manifold but didnt see any sign of leakage. My valve cover gaskets are leaking, could that possibly cause a vacuum leak or nah?

Nvm, think a clogged cat is pretty straight forward. Literally can’t see through it, and collapsed cat is the honeycomb had disintegrated.

Ill take another look at all the vacuum lines. Maybe I missed something along the way. I did do a new air filter about 10K km ago, but Ill take another look at it. What is the best way to check if the cat is clogged/done ?

Hey All, I have a R34 25GT thats experiencing high fuel consumption. I'm getting around 6-7 km/L on highway, so about 15L / 100 km. I used to get about 600+ km out of a full tank (65L) on highway so something just seems to be off. When I use the consult cable, I noticed my ignition timing has been retarded back to 5 at idle when the car has warmed up. I think it should be 15 or so. The car doesnt have any mods, and running stock ECU. Also, no codes come up when I read the ECU Some of the stuff I've tried so far: Change O2 Sensor Clean AFM Change Fuel Filter Change coil packs Change spark plugs Check Fuel Pressure (seems fine according to workshop manual) 41 PSI when fuel pump is primed but car is off 38 PSI at idle 46 PSI when vacuum hose pulled Check VTC Solenoid - Clicks when 12v put across it, gave it a clean anyway and put it back in the car, but no change. Check coolant temp sensor - seems to be working via Consult, and temperature guage on dash will rise up to just below middle A few questions: Can leaking fuel injectors / bad spray pattern affect timing? I'm wondering if I may have skipped a tooth, but really not sure how possible that is. I've added the logs here from nissan data scan in case someone wants to help take a look. Really unsure what to do next, any help would be appreciated. Thanks! 20224151332.log

@joshuaho96i ended up buying those ones! thanks for your help

thanks guys, i guess i will stick with OEM then!

Hey all, Need some new fuel injectors for my RB25DE NEO. I know the OEM part number is 16600-5L700, but I can't seem to figure out what CCs they are. I'd like to buy some aftermarket injectors to save some $. Anyone know what the go-to aftermarket injector is?

Just wondering if a stock C35 Laurel exhaust would work on my R34. My R34 is a 2000 and I would be trying to put on an exhaust from a 2001 Laurel. From my research it seems like they are both the same, but just wanted to confirm.

I'm still a little confused about this.... I removed my turn signal switch from my car and I'm trying to test if it's good or not. If I understand the diagram correctly, in the Lighting SW area of the diagram, I set my switch to 1ST position and check the pins for continuity. So I put my multimeter on Pin 1 and Pin 9 and set my multimeter to resistance. I test the pins but it it seems like there is no continuity there. Am I reading this diagram wrong? What do the Hi/Lo/P stuff mean? Not sure if it makes a difference but I don't have an AUTO mode on my switch. My switch also doesn't have all the same pins that are shown in the diagram. I've attached an image of the wiring diagram for convenience. Wiring Diagram I'm sorta a noob at electrical so anything helps.

thanks!