R34NeoLover

Yeah ive been told that supposedly as 5th gear is an overdrive, the material used isnt as strong as the other gears or something?

Awesome thanks for that. I am abit worried with the stock gear ratio though, i have been told that going into 5th gear at those speeds is extremely bad, as its mainly an overdrive gear, and at those speeds, shifting into 5th, wont be long before it goes bang. But i have also heard that typically 3rd i think it was, would go way before 5th did. Dont suppose anyone has any input? I have been told that ideally i should lower the diff ratio to something like a 3.4-3.7, and to avoid using 5th at the track.

Well i am here to give a bit of an update. Took the car around sandown yesterday, first time using semi slicks and the first time taking my car out with 343rwkw. I had previously taken the car to sandown a bunch of times with 200rwkw and using bridgestone potenzas re003. Firstly, wow the nangkang ar1s were amazing, i had zero grip issues, and it was raining on and off through out the whole day. Only managed to get in 2 sessions because of the rain, but i could plant my foot to the floor coming out of the turns in 2nd, no issues. I kept air pressures around 35ish but i never really got the chance to get them really hot, so i cant really comment on optimum air pressure, but around this mark felt good atleast. I mostly took it pretty easy as i am not used to the car with this kind of power, for me its like driving a completely different car, but i managed a 1:32:00, with heaps of room for inprovement. I would like to drop down to 1:29, so i will go again in future, i could of easily achieved my time if i wanted to, but i just wasnt 100% sure what would of happened with a slightly wet track and semi slicks. I still have hicas and stock diff, i think they are fine, but i did not push the car to its absolute limits, so i am not totally sure. Stock gearbox, stock gear ratio, i hit 6,500rpm in 5th gear before i started braking. Now as my speedo only goes up to 180kph, would anyone happen to know what speeds i probably was doing? Looking at my dash cam footage, 7,000rpm in 4th gear, goes well past the 180kph mark, so i think 4th ends at about 200kph give or take, would it be too big of a stretch to assume i was doing about 240-250ish in 5th 6,500rpm?

Ok cool thanks, I'll look into all that if the semi slicks dont hold the power down during sandown in the next week. I might look into adjustable boost for the street, although i am not overly concerned about traction on the streets, i drive the car like once a week sometimes even once a fortnight, mainly just cruising around, i dont race in the streets. I got the car back from the dyno about a month ago, and up until a few days ago, i hadn't tried to use the full power, mainly because i use it on the race track, not the streets. Since sandown was coming up, i thought i better try a full throttle pull in 2nd just incase something plays up, I'd still have time to take it back to the dyno. I should probably also add, the potenzas on it right now, are years old, so i am sure a better, newer and wider tyre would help part of the issue. Anyways this will be my first track day with this kind of power, i have done plenty of track days, just not with this amount of power. I guess I'll mainly just be getting used to the car, wont be trying to set any pbs or anything, ill probably be experimenting with air pressures during the first few sessions, hopefully find the sweet spot and traction hopefully wont be much of an issue.

I have 2 sets of wheels, one for the street, other for track. Cant quite remember offsets, but street wheels are fronts 18x8.5 rears 18x9, track wheels are fronts 18x8.5 rears: 18x9.5. Biggest tyres i can fit in the rear 18×9.5 is 275/35/18, but then I'd have to roll guards, that's why i opted for 265/35/18, fits without touching guards. From memory, the rears offset is +35.

Hmm, now that i think about it, the diff does make clicking noises sometimes during low speed turns, feels slightly rough when revs drop down low while turning, then accelerate, and makes a slight rotating whine when in 5th gear at 80kph. I should probably get it checked out, unless those are normal characteristics of a series 1 r34 diff? All those things may or may not be diff related, i honestly wouldn't have a clue. I am attending a sandown trackday in less then 2 weeks, ill see how i go with the nangkang ar1s, if i still have issues, i guess ill be looking at a possible diff upgrade in future.

Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to know how this would affect driveability? I don't know much about diffs, i just remember reading something about some of the harsher diffs making the car a pig to drive?

Nah its a series 1 i probably should upgrade it, but i know next to nothing about diffs, is there one that does well at the track and is comfortable enough to use on the streets? also i should mention the wheel allignment setup has negative camber i think, around the 1.5 mark, cant quite remember the specs as the allignment was done 2 years ago.

Yeah i am still running stock diff. You think the stock diff will still be an issue at the track?

Nice to see someone in a similar boat to me. Good to hear the nangkangs should be fine, i am yet to use them on the track, but if you say they dont break traction or even slightly fish tail down the straights, at this power, then that makes me more confident. At 200rwkw the rears would fish tail abit coming out of a corner, but that was easy to work around, so i am not expecting it to have 100% grip around the whole track, just mainly hoping it will be fine down the straights.

Wow thanks for the quick responses! The wheels and suspension were put in place to handle 200rwkw, but after 2 or so years, i just wanted more power, as i do sandown track days every now and then. I think eventually when these potenza re003s wear out, ill upgrade to a better tyre, probably something like a michellin ps4s or there abouts, in the 265/35/18 size, i drive pretty sensible on the streets, so i am not too worried about traction on the streets, i rarely go above 5k rpm anyway. Now i did purchase nangkang ar1 semi slicks for sandown, 245/40/18 fronts, 265/35/18 rears. I am hoping these alone will fix the problem, but after reading your responses, think I'll get it booked in for a wheel allignment and suspension setup for this kind of power.

Hey all, so i have an r34 gt-t making 300+rwkw, and the rear wheels seem to give way when on full throttle, around 4k+ rpm, when boost is on, i just break traction and start sliding to the left. My setup: Tyres: front: bridgestone potenza re003 235/40/18 Rear: bridestone potenza re003 245/40/18 Suspension: bc br coilovers. When the car was making 200rwkw, it was booked in for a wheel allignment and suspension setup specifically for the race track winton, so the rear coilovers are pretty stiff. Could it be because my rear suspension is setup pretty stiff? Could it be because 245/40/18 isn't going to cut it? I have purchased 265/35/18 nangkang ar1s semi slicks for sandown in 2 weeks, i am unsure if those tyres will solve my problem, atleast on the race track. Should i purchase larger and better tyres for the rears? Should i take it to a suspension specialist to adjust the suspension for this kind of power? Should i do both? Any help is appreciated thank you.

Ah beautiful thank you. Also we found on the exhaust manifold, #6 was leaking air, also had a leak where the turbo exhaust housing connects to the dump pipe, getting all that sorted out soon, should hopefully spool up quicker and possibly make more power. 320rwkw with exhaust leaks from an atr43 is pretty good imo, definitely rate these turbos as fantastic value for money.

Pretty good advice. I've got atr43, z32 afm, nistune, blitz return flow, 320rwkw and having stalling issues due to the afm. I've heard people say move the afm on the throttle body side of the intercooler piping, seems like you guys are suggesting the same thing. I've heard to move the afm just a bit before the throttle body, and ive also been told to move it down lower, on the intercooler piping underneath the car/next to the intercooler. Not sure which one i should try, any suggestions?

This is what I've currently got on the car, came with them when i purchased it years ago. Fronts: 18×8.5+35 with 235/40/18 Rear 18x9+32 with 245/40/18 Using these as daily, will use the rotas only for racing.

Went and test fitted a 18x9.5 with a +20 offset on the rear of a r34 gtt coupe with coilovers, lowered but legal height and no guards rolled. Rims stuck out of the guard quite abit, so +20 is definitely a no go. Ordered for the front 18x8.5 +28 and for the rears18×9.5 + 35 Unsure of the tyre size, most likely a 235/40/18 at the front and probably a 265/35/18 rear. Rota wheels expert who supposedly knows all about our cars, is going to call me on monday and recommend me either 18x10+35 or 18×9.5+35 with either 265 or 275 tyres on the rear.

So im looking at getting rota p45f for the fronts and p45r2 for the rears, but i really don't know much about the offset choices, hopefully someone can help. I am looking at getting the following rim and tyre sizes: 18x8.5 front with 245/40/18 18x9.5 rear with 265/35/18 The rota website only offers +28 offset for the fronts and either +12 +20 or +35 for the rears. I have bc br coilovers and i am lowered to the maximum legal height in Victoria. I'd like my wheels to sit just slightly inside the guards, not outside, as i use this car for track days. Would +28 for the fronts and +35 for the rears be ideal?

Sweet, and im assuming the metal intake pipe would be the exact same for the r34?

Looking for a stock turbo thats been high flowed to play around with for a few months, hoping someone has one in good condition and looking to part ways for around the $500ish mark or so. Preferably in Victoria thanks.

Hey mate im assuming this will fit a r34 gtt? Im in Melbourne but am definitely interested! Send us some pics of that metal intake pipe and the turbo too whenever you can, thanks!

Ah beautiful, just what i was looking for. Yeah the car is used mostly as a weekender and i do a few track days a year in it, so looks like 75-90 is definitely the way to go, thanks

Hi all, so i ordered an npc organic clutch and flywheel, rang up Nissan to see if they had any genuine oil for manual 5 speed gearbox, they said the stock oil is castrol vmx 75-80 or vmx 75-90. I am now confused, which exactly is the standard one and what is the difference between the two? I know theres previous threads discussing using redline lightweight shockproof, but from what ive read, this is for worn synchros? I cant tell the exact condition of my gearbox, but it shifts into every gear smoothly, so thats why i was thinking of using the standard oil, unless its suggested otherwise?

Wow i am enjoying reading all the information on this page, keep up the good work