Hella_GTR

Pretty sure you're right about that. The chat bot picked an old post too. And G&K has been able to get cars with upgraded turbos through compliance testing just fine.

Sounds good I'll attempt some hard braking back-to-back from high speeds. It's actually really hard to do that in tokyo area but i'll find a way lol. The brakes setup is pretty new, like no more than 8,000 kilo's on them. I've definitely encountered surface rust from washing the car or rain, but nothing like this. It was like flooded the same weekend I washed it though and drove through some pretty deep puddle but thought it would have dried out by the time I got home. I hope the rotors are not warped. The rust is only where the pad met the rotor overnight. So when it hits that lifted rusted spot, you can hear it and feel it when braking... Thanks for the advice. It sounds salvageable!

I talked to Nismo and they said I need to go do some more back-to-back high speed hard braking. If that doesn't clear it then I need new rotors and pads which would suck.

That's the plan. No way I'm giving up on these new expensive rotors lol. These are times I wish i had a house with a garage to work on a car. Thanks man and I gotta get an update from you on your progress. Next for me is a Nismo intercooler. I'm still hoping for a California plate in the future...

It's just strange because I've washed my car 100 times and this never happened before. The car is parked underground as well so I don't really get what happened. We did have some pretty serious flooding/rain before the wash and it was humid as heck but still. I did park it like right after washing though. I'm also disappointed that this happened since the brakes were ￥￥￥￥￥￥￥￥

Dang, I was hoping just hitting the spot with a flex-hone would work. That means I gotta go to a shop cause Tokyo living means I'm in a tower with a vending machine parking lot and no place to do that kind of work myself lol. Thanks for the guidance. Surprised this happened in the first place.

Good morning folks, looking for some help on how to treat my new Endless Brakes. I recently upgraded my bcnr33's brakes to Endless Racing Mono 6. All was good until I washed my car and parked it overnight and drove it the next day to work and the brakes felt like the rotors were warped shaking about and the pedal pulsing. I took a look and found these rust spots on the rotors as shown below. It looks like where the pad meets the rotors, rust formed overnight. I spent a week daily driving for 250kms, doing hard braking as often as I can when the opporutnity allowed. It got better but still the rust spots remain and the pedal pulsing remains. It's been humid here in Japan so it must've rusted bad overnight. Anyone have experience with this? I'll keep pounding on the brakes whenever I can but I feel i've done that enough. My pads are endless street spec so not too aggressive. I was thinking about hitting the rust spot with a flex-hone but don't want to do that if I don't have to. If anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it. Thank you! P.S. The last photo is before the rust occurred just to show off how beautiful the brakes are. Info on the brakes: https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_caliper/index_RacingMONO6.html

LOL that is definitely love. I'd regret it if I sold it. Pretty sad story my old home town won't let my car in. Trust me, next time my work allows me to do an overseas tour, Australia is a top choice. Definitely doing a lot of things right there.

Agreed man. Unfortunately G&K won't work with me so I'm stuck unless I just tell them I put it back to stock and hope they don't notice. Just some risk in that for me if I take a job in California and they decide they won't help me.

lol ok JK said to return it to stock or register it in Nevada and they can't help. Good times.

Sorry I thought G&K was the only one who were certified to do CARB compliance. I assumed I had no choice but to use them. Didn't know there was another route. Also, there's just not much info out there which is why I've been looking for any good US based forums sites. That said, I just looked at JK and they do say they can do CARB but it's not that clear. I have no idea how they do it from Maryland unless it's not necessary to be in California for the testing. Either way I will reach out to them and see if they can help and willing to work with me. Or maybe you mean I should have just not told G&K about the turbos I have. I always planned on running the car with a virgin OEM ECU for compliance work. No boost controller on the car so should be low boost. This would probably be easier if I was stateside... I'll do more research as well. I just don't want to relocate to California and find out I can't get my car in compliance. I only want to move there if I know for sure it'll get through. If not I'll find a job in a different state basically. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the help.

Welp, Nancy at G&K just told me no, they can only accept the car if it is 100% stock

Hmmm yeah my worry is that he's too busy to even give me the time. I wrote him a nice email and tried to explain that the R1 turbos are similar to original with all connections the same as it was at the factory, no stand-alone fuel management, no external boost controller, original fuel system, and everything was installed at Nissan Prince Tokyo. I also said I will buy an original un-opened ECU to plug in during testing. I offered to pay the additional fees as well if it requires additional time. But yeah if I get no help from him then I'm out of luck unless there's another shop that is certified and willing to help but no idea if that exists. I'll let ya know if he agrees to work with me on getting a California plate man. Thanks again

Thanks again. Hmmm it kinda sounds like I should just tell him my car is original and let him try. Just worried that if he won't accept it when he sees it in person then I'll be out of luck. Basically if they won't accept my car then my plan was to not move back to California so I'd really like to know before I find a new job back stateside. I don't want to move to California then find out I'm out of luck basically. I was hoping Top Rank could give me some advice too. I appreciate the offer for checking out the data from my ecu but yeah the plan was to only move to California if the car was OK, rather than the other way around. I'll try George one more time and go from there I guess. Also thanks for the tips on exporters to the US! Thanks again

Hi Josh, So you're thinking the same thing I'm thinking. I was planning on just using an original series 1 ECU on the r1 turbos and also bring a 95 RON Minex VX ecu to swap in after the compliance work is done. I don't know if I'd need to swap back in stock turbo elbows or not but as you said, the R1 turbos are pretty similar to stock and I run the OEM MAF sensors and air intake box. I only run 0.9 BAR to keep things safe on the car as well and no external boost controller (boost is controlled by the ECU). Hmm ok let me ask him if he'll consider doing my car with the R1 turbo's and an original unopened ECU and they can install however many cat converters they need on my OEM exhaust or another one I pick up while here. Hopefully he'll entertain the idea at least. If so, it really opens more doors for places to work and it was pretty much why I got the 1995 BCNR33 in the first place (to get through CA compliance). That is also really good news about the Nissan dealers having access to Skyline parts. I was worried about that. I love being able to run to Nissan when I need a part. Thanks man and I'll report back with what George says. ---Evan