wsln33

I need the bits that bolt to the top and bottom of the plenum. They bolt onto the piece which is attached directly to the head (so after the throttle bodies). Water flows through them i think. If you can help me out please let me know. Thanks

I didnt think you could use mild steel for cooler piping as it would rust. When you say rust proof it do you mean rustproofing both the inside and out? If so, how do you rust proof the inside??

thanks fellas

Hi, Just wondering how long can a freshly built motor can sit doing nothing. I ask this question because im building a car from scratch and its costing quite a bit more than expected! I want to get the motor put together so i can put it in my car and bolt all the good gear onto it. That will inspire me to finish it off.! Only thing is it will take me about a year to get it running. Is a year fine? and should i do anything to it in that year to keep it in good shape? Thanks in advance

I used that heat resistant brake disc paint out of a can. I think it was vht stuff that goes to 1500F. It comes out really fine and needs no priming.

Hey mate, i just got a price to anodise my cooler and i got quoted 300-400! Think ill be giving it a light coat of matt black primer!

As the topic says, i need some cam covers for a rb26 head as i got the head without them. Will be painted so condition of paint not critical, thanks

Doesnt he have a slightly thicker one? Maybe ring rajab racing (alan 03 93577587) as they have one 115mm. Would be heaps cheaper than $2500!

Yeah ring around and get a few prices. You have two options in getting it anodised or that radiator paint. If anodising doesnt wreck the fins or look patchy that seems the best option as it wouldnt stone chip. Let us know what prices you come up with for both as im going to get mine done as i prefer the stealthy factory look.

If its the same size as your hks typr r one (600x300x109 tube and fin) why dont you stick with that and see if your intake temps are too high when you push it on the dyno. I dont think that size is marginal as a very powerful vl (qwikvl) uses a 600x300x90 garrett bar and plate and has pushed out 550rwkw and ran 8.9's so i think 109 thick will be ample. Give are a call and see what size he recommends. I think 160mm thick is a tad overkill for 800hp and would just make your car a smidge laggier.

I wouldnt go any of the coolers you mentioned. Id go for an A.R.E one. Have a look at the website and have a look at how much research he has done into intercooling. Im getting one of the 600x300x109 tube and fin for my 26/30 which will see 550rwkw so you could get one of those. I got it for $1300 I definately wouldnt get two cores welded together as that wouldnt be good for flow and especially for the price it is! And i wouldnt get the other option as its not as good as an a.r.e. one which is heaps cheaper. U definately dont need to pay over 1500 for a cooler! Have a look at www.are.com.au/

Thanks for the reply's. I think the jun pump might be the safer option. Also im going to use a rb26 ross harmonic balancer. I was speaking to the maker of the ross balancers and he suggested using the bigger rb26 balancer as the rb30 one is smaller and is only really designed for the rb30's limit of about 6500 i think. I think most of the pulleys are the same except the power steering might be different so might have to modify that.

Ok guys, im building a rb26/30 and am looking for around 550rwkw in race tune eventually. The heads almost done and consists of custom 272ish cams with 10.5mm lift, bigger springs, ported head, match ported greddy intake with 80mm t.b. The exhaust manifold is a 6boost one and turbo a mr turbo ceramic ball bearing T72 which is similar in size to a gt42. The bottom end is being built at the moment and is why i need to decide on which oil pump to use so the right size restrictor can be put in. I have done all the things mentioned by Sydnekid to control oil including enlarging the return oil galleries from the head, external drain at the back of the head, H.E sump etc Ive searched heaps and have heard alot of bad things about n1 pumps failing. I am concerned about it breaking especially when hitting the limiter and DO NOT WANT TO RISK IT BREAKING! Should i just sell the n1 pump and get a JUN pump as they are $1000 on nengun and greenline so $600 more. Or should i stick with the n1 and somehow setup something thats cuts ignition and fuel when low oil is sensed to save the engine incase it breaks?

Whats causing these n1 pumps to fail? bouncing off the limiter??

Ok guys, i need some help if you are good at working out compression ratios. These are the facts im working off - - gtr head approx 62-64cc so i used 63 for my calculations, - head gasket cometic 87mm and 0.051thou (i worked out 7.5cc), - cp 86.5mm flat top pistons set up at 0 deck height for the right squish ( i got 499.506cc using 85 stroke and 86.5 bore). With this i get close to 8.1? Is this right or am i missing something? Im after a compression ratio of 8.8. What will i have to do? shave the head?

Hey guys, im thinking of getting my intercooler anodised dark grey or black so it doesnt draw attention. Does anyone know what the process involves or how much it would roughly cost? I know it would be better than painting it as i dont want to have a layer of paint over the cooler and anodising looks more like a dye. Any feedback is appreciated, thanks

Sounds like its not a good idea. I might try to work out how to run one pump only and then get the other one to switch on when needed. That way it would save all the fuel circulating around and getting heated up.

Some people get it, some people dont. The fuel reg will be after the rail if the tee for the rail is before the fuel reg in the boot. By keeping the fuel reg in the boot the fuel wont have to travel up to the engine bay and back. It will only be cycled around in a small circle.

In my new car ill be running 2 044's. If one flows 360l/ph, thats 12 litres per minute (6 litres per 044) that will be going around to the engine bay and back getting heated up. Is it possible to have this sort of setup? Have the 2 044s in the boot, run the 2 outlets from the 044 into one, have a tee that comes off this line that goes to the engine bay, the other side of the tee goes to the fuel reg in the boot. Therefore the only fuel going to the engine bay will be used?

yes am getting a good port job and oversized valves. 272's seem to be the winner at the moment

Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for cam sizes if i told you the specs which would influence your choice: rb26/30, mr turbo T72 which is similar in size to a gt42, 8500rpm limit. I know of another car with a gt42, rb26/30 combo that has made 550rwkw 8500rpm limited, not really pushing it hard. I want to make similar power and make the most of the 8500 limit so not use huge cams like 290 odds which need to make use of 10,000rpm if you know what i mean. Anyone have any ideas?

Standard fuel lines will be heaps big enough for 300rwkw.

Id go a 6boost one for sure. His work and service is second to none. The new guy on calaisturbo selling his manifolds is just copying 6boost ones

As the topic says im after a gtr head. pm me with what you have, thanks