jlabsurf

I have them if you still need them.

I have a few parts that I won't be using from my old engine. Will not ship the engine whole as its just too much of a hassle from Japan. All parts are being shipped from Aomori, Japan. Payment method is Paypal. All items will be shipped USPS Priority with tracking. RB26 Valve Covers Freshly Powder Coated Shocker Yellow - 700$ + shipping Haltech Platinum Pro PnP R32/R33 GTR (Brand new never used) - 1400$ + shipping. RB26 OEM Genuine Knock Sensors x2 - 180$ + shipping Anything off old engine (intake manifold, iacv, exhaust manifolds, igniter, CAS, etc.) - please message me My name, phone number and email: Jaden (JP) +81-80-9331-1919 & [email protected]

I have a brand new Haltech Platinum Pro for R32/R33 GTR for sale, never used I bought it not thinking about the fact that my tuner in Japan wouldn't be able to use it. Brand new in the box with all connectors etc. 1400$ IMG_3183.jfif IMG_3184.jfif IMG_3182.jfif IMG_3181.jfif

So I was re-installing my clutch on a new engine the other day and I noticed that the Clutch Boss or Clutch Basket? (as it says in the Japanese directions) has play. I've tightened everything down to proper torque spec and I'm not sure if it is supposed to have 2-3mm of play. It seems not right to me but a few guys have told me its normal. I just want to make sure before I fully put everything back in the car. The piece has about 2-3mm of play back and forth towards the flywheel or the pressure plate, it looks as if its still synced up with the clutch discs though... I've attached a picture of the thing I'm talking about circled in red. I can upload a video if needed.

I think eventually I'll convert to MAP when I go single. But since I was given the r35 MAFs I'll try these out for now and see how the tune is. The problem with the haltech is that no one here in Japan uses it to tune. At least not in my area (Iwate). Was thinking about it but not many of my japanese friends use haltech either XD. I am talking to a guy for remote tuning possibly and I do have a dyno I can rent out though. I'll see what my guy says, who knows he might want MAP anyways. I'm going to go through Igarashi at SSI Engineering. I do plan on going further but not for a while, gonna run this setup for the next year or two while I slowly build my other engine that will be single turbo 700+

Awesome ill have a look at that thank you. While yes I know the capabilities of each ecu I noted a drawback in my plan would be that if I were to go with haltech it would be remote/online tuning as a drawback. That was the main point in that question. While doing my research many were saying the biggest con to MAP is the partial throttle tuning being inaccurate etc. like I was talking about. Hence why I asked about it. Thank you for your input though, its good to hear there are no issues with MAP on your end. I meant like people say you need to have the plumbing from each throttle body inlet to a dedicated vacuum chamber to equalize the pressure between all 6? I have tried to do research to find what methods people have but there are many methods that are the "quick" and the "proper" way. For example a guy said this "tap two threads into the center throttle plate after each throttle blade, then T them together into your map sensor." That just seems like a lot of work and excess vacuum lines to convert to MAP when the r35 MAFs can handle up to 600ps?

I was thinking about going MAP but I've heard people saying its terrible for partial throttle tuning, reading correct pressure unless theres plumbing to each individual throttle body inlet, etc. Is that true? What kind of work does it involve converting to MAP besides obviously removing AFMs.

This is my mod list and I'm wondering how much power I should be expected to make, and if I should use my haltech or my powerFC. I'm only listing power mods because all of the support mods are already there. A lot of the japanese guys out here know powerFC already. But if I go with my haltech I'll have to go for remote/online tuning. Mods~ BNR34 N1 Turbos Tomei Fuel Pump Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator Splitfire Coil Packs HKS Cam Gears R35 Injectors R35 MAFs Nismo Super copper mix twin plate Apexi Intakes Mines DP, HKS Front pipe, full exhaust (decatted) How much can I expect to make safely with this? Motor is extremely healthy 165-168psi across all 6.

My car just broke 200,000kms. I have no idea how many km on the engine.. That being said the engine was maintained by Omori Nismo Factory in Yokohama until about 2017 by a single Japanese owner. Never asked him if the engine was replaced or rebuilt or anything like that. Then owned by myself since 2017. The bottom end made no noise what so ever and when I compression tested prior to taking it to the tuner I was getting 166-168psi on all 6. After the mishap with the tuner I was getting around 152-154 on 1-2 & 4-6 besides #3 while the engine was cold. I didn't want to let the engine run long enough to get it warm. The engine would not use any oil and no smoke what so ever. When I took it apart before there was still a perfect cross hatch and no damage on the piston heads(stock) at all. I cleaned the top of the pistons already when I changed my HG so there shouldn't be much to clean. If I were to rebuild the bottom end at home for my first time, what kind of job am I looking at and how much if I do it the right way? I've many years of experience working on cars and a decent amount on rb26s just never rebuilt a bottom end.

Sorry let me clarify, I never got the chance to take off the head myself with work and all so I haven't had a chance to take a look at the damages. Had a friend take it off for me and ship it to NAPREC as the car is currently at sitting at his house. This was last night. At this point I'd like to do it all myself as I don't feel I can trust the local shop and most performance shops out here are an hour or two away minimum. It will be my first time disassembling/reassembling the bottom end if I have to. Everything else I have experience with.

I haven't had the time to put a camera in or pull it apart because of work. But I'm assuming because the valve hit the piston head hard it will have a sizable dent in it at the very least. Which I was told will create hot spots and cause pre-ignition.

Unfortunately he wanted to argue and put the blame on myself and then charge me for the "timing system" twice. Stating it was I, who left the cam gear loose. I know for a fact I did not, but unfortunately there is no way I can prove that legally. Heard a lot of bad things about the guy but decided to give it a shot because he's the only one that tunes haltechs in this region of Japan. Definitely learned my lesson.

So basically I dropped my engine off at the tuner running perfectly fine. Tuner was supposed to adjust timing and tune my haltech. He said he forgot to re-tighten my adjustable cam gear on the intake side and because of that I have bent valves in cylinder #3. My compression on all other 5 cylinders is really good, cylinder 3 is 0. I can't even get a compression reading. I sent my head off to NAPREC here in Japan and they are doing the high response kit to fix my head. naprec.co.jp/product_en/hrk-rb26 Besides the high response head service (1600$) what do I need to do and what is the cheapest route I can go to get my engine running again? Just replace the one piston head in cylinder #3 and make sure it is balanced and slap the head back on good to go? The tuner that damaged my head said its more cost efficient to just buy a new motor 6000-8000$ than to take my current motor apart and fix the damages that have been done. That just doesn't seem right to me and that is why I am asking.

I did set it to zero and fired it up and its still making bad noises unfortunately... I checked the exhaust and it was still at zero on adjustment.

To keep the story short, upon rushing to rebuild my engine and get it ready for shipping; I made the mistake of not checking the cam gear torque on the adjusters before I installed them out of the box. At first I started the car just fine and it ran great. Moved the car to a different location. Then next time I started it, it ran like absolute shit. I decided to pull of the timing to take a look and found that the adjustable cam gear had gone full advance as shown in the picture. I returned the cam gear to neutral and its still making god awful sounds in the head. Is the adjustment from the cam gear really enough degrees to bend a valve? I'm super confused because I don't feel like it would be but at the same time I'm not sure. Picture is of where adjusters slipped to full advance