jlabsurf

I have them if you still need them.

I have a few parts that I won't be using from my old engine. Will not ship the engine whole as its just too much of a hassle from Japan. All parts are being shipped from Aomori, Japan. Payment method is Paypal. All items will be shipped USPS Priority with tracking. RB26 Valve Covers Freshly Powder Coated Shocker Yellow - 700$ + shipping Haltech Platinum Pro PnP R32/R33 GTR (Brand new never used) - 1400$ + shipping. RB26 OEM Genuine Knock Sensors x2 - 180$ + shipping Anything off old engine (intake manifold, iacv, exhaust manifolds, igniter, CAS, etc.) - please message me My name, phone number and email: Jaden (JP) +81-80-9331-1919 & [email protected]

I have a brand new Haltech Platinum Pro for R32/R33 GTR for sale, never used I bought it not thinking about the fact that my tuner in Japan wouldn't be able to use it. Brand new in the box with all connectors etc. 1400$ IMG_3183.jfif IMG_3184.jfif IMG_3182.jfif IMG_3181.jfif

So I was re-installing my clutch on a new engine the other day and I noticed that the Clutch Boss or Clutch Basket? (as it says in the Japanese directions) has play. I've tightened everything down to proper torque spec and I'm not sure if it is supposed to have 2-3mm of play. It seems not right to me but a few guys have told me its normal. I just want to make sure before I fully put everything back in the car. The piece has about 2-3mm of play back and forth towards the flywheel or the pressure plate, it looks as if its still synced up with the clutch discs though... I've attached a picture of the thing I'm talking about circled in red. I can upload a video if needed.

I think eventually I'll convert to MAP when I go single. But since I was given the r35 MAFs I'll try these out for now and see how the tune is. The problem with the haltech is that no one here in Japan uses it to tune. At least not in my area (Iwate). Was thinking about it but not many of my japanese friends use haltech either XD. I am talking to a guy for remote tuning possibly and I do have a dyno I can rent out though. I'll see what my guy says, who knows he might want MAP anyways. I'm going to go through Igarashi at SSI Engineering. I do plan on going further but not for a while, gonna run this setup for the next year or two while I slowly build my other engine that will be single turbo 700+

Awesome ill have a look at that thank you. While yes I know the capabilities of each ecu I noted a drawback in my plan would be that if I were to go with haltech it would be remote/online tuning as a drawback. That was the main point in that question. While doing my research many were saying the biggest con to MAP is the partial throttle tuning being inaccurate etc. like I was talking about. Hence why I asked about it. Thank you for your input though, its good to hear there are no issues with MAP on your end. I meant like people say you need to have the plumbing from each throttle body inlet to a dedicated vacuum chamber to equalize the pressure between all 6? I have tried to do research to find what methods people have but there are many methods that are the "quick" and the "proper" way. For example a guy said this "tap two threads into the center throttle plate after each throttle blade, then T them together into your map sensor." That just seems like a lot of work and excess vacuum lines to convert to MAP when the r35 MAFs can handle up to 600ps?

I was thinking about going MAP but I've heard people saying its terrible for partial throttle tuning, reading correct pressure unless theres plumbing to each individual throttle body inlet, etc. Is that true? What kind of work does it involve converting to MAP besides obviously removing AFMs.

This is my mod list and I'm wondering how much power I should be expected to make, and if I should use my haltech or my powerFC. I'm only listing power mods because all of the support mods are already there. A lot of the japanese guys out here know powerFC already. But if I go with my haltech I'll have to go for remote/online tuning. Mods~ BNR34 N1 Turbos Tomei Fuel Pump Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator Splitfire Coil Packs HKS Cam Gears R35 Injectors R35 MAFs Nismo Super copper mix twin plate Apexi Intakes Mines DP, HKS Front pipe, full exhaust (decatted) How much can I expect to make safely with this? Motor is extremely healthy 165-168psi across all 6.

My car just broke 200,000kms. I have no idea how many km on the engine.. That being said the engine was maintained by Omori Nismo Factory in Yokohama until about 2017 by a single Japanese owner. Never asked him if the engine was replaced or rebuilt or anything like that. Then owned by myself since 2017. The bottom end made no noise what so ever and when I compression tested prior to taking it to the tuner I was getting 166-168psi on all 6. After the mishap with the tuner I was getting around 152-154 on 1-2 & 4-6 besides #3 while the engine was cold. I didn't want to let the engine run long enough to get it warm. The engine would not use any oil and no smoke what so ever. When I took it apart before there was still a perfect cross hatch and no damage on the piston heads(stock) at all. I cleaned the top of the pistons already when I changed my HG so there shouldn't be much to clean. If I were to rebuild the bottom end at home for my first time, what kind of job am I looking at and how much if I do it the right way? I've many years of experience working on cars and a decent amount on rb26s just never rebuilt a bottom end.

Sorry let me clarify, I never got the chance to take off the head myself with work and all so I haven't had a chance to take a look at the damages. Had a friend take it off for me and ship it to NAPREC as the car is currently at sitting at his house. This was last night. At this point I'd like to do it all myself as I don't feel I can trust the local shop and most performance shops out here are an hour or two away minimum. It will be my first time disassembling/reassembling the bottom end if I have to. Everything else I have experience with.

I haven't had the time to put a camera in or pull it apart because of work. But I'm assuming because the valve hit the piston head hard it will have a sizable dent in it at the very least. Which I was told will create hot spots and cause pre-ignition.

Unfortunately he wanted to argue and put the blame on myself and then charge me for the "timing system" twice. Stating it was I, who left the cam gear loose. I know for a fact I did not, but unfortunately there is no way I can prove that legally. Heard a lot of bad things about the guy but decided to give it a shot because he's the only one that tunes haltechs in this region of Japan. Definitely learned my lesson.

So basically I dropped my engine off at the tuner running perfectly fine. Tuner was supposed to adjust timing and tune my haltech. He said he forgot to re-tighten my adjustable cam gear on the intake side and because of that I have bent valves in cylinder #3. My compression on all other 5 cylinders is really good, cylinder 3 is 0. I can't even get a compression reading. I sent my head off to NAPREC here in Japan and they are doing the high response kit to fix my head. naprec.co.jp/product_en/hrk-rb26 Besides the high response head service (1600$) what do I need to do and what is the cheapest route I can go to get my engine running again? Just replace the one piston head in cylinder #3 and make sure it is balanced and slap the head back on good to go? The tuner that damaged my head said its more cost efficient to just buy a new motor 6000-8000$ than to take my current motor apart and fix the damages that have been done. That just doesn't seem right to me and that is why I am asking.

I did set it to zero and fired it up and its still making bad noises unfortunately... I checked the exhaust and it was still at zero on adjustment.

To keep the story short, upon rushing to rebuild my engine and get it ready for shipping; I made the mistake of not checking the cam gear torque on the adjusters before I installed them out of the box. At first I started the car just fine and it ran great. Moved the car to a different location. Then next time I started it, it ran like absolute shit. I decided to pull of the timing to take a look and found that the adjustable cam gear had gone full advance as shown in the picture. I returned the cam gear to neutral and its still making god awful sounds in the head. Is the adjustment from the cam gear really enough degrees to bend a valve? I'm super confused because I don't feel like it would be but at the same time I'm not sure. Picture is of where adjusters slipped to full advance

Ideally I’d get it machined but I’m not going to have an opportunity to get the car to the shop as it’s being shipped very soon. Do you think putting on another oem gasket should do the trick? My cam seals are leaking up front and I’m wondering if the oil could travel back towards that part of the block? That’s just wishful thinking though ?

That’s what I initially thought... but the head underneath the valve cover doesn’t look wet except for a small spot or two. Look at the difference in these photos..

Pulled the engine out this weekend because I'm upgrading to new turbos and doing a bunch of other needed maintenance. I noticed a few small leaks on the turbo side of the block which I believe were coming from the valve cover but upon further inspection I'm starting to notice that the head gasket seems to be the spot its leaking at? My coolant has been in the car for a while and its not murky or brown at all. Oil is also perfectly fine and normal in color after 2000kms. No white smoke or anything on startup or driving. Not really sure where this leak is coming from or if its an old leak that was never cleaned? Although it looks pretty fresh. Apologize for shitty pictures its the best I could do.

A similar issue was still happening before I even installed the lockbar just in a different fashion. Hicas light would come on for a second every 5 seconds or so whenever I had the 4WD fuses in.

While there are a lot of places around here that can take a look at the car it is illegal for Japanese dealerships and/or mechanics to work on cars that are illegally modified. Basic mods or even stickers on windows make a car illegal here. You will not pass JCI/shaken inspection with these and you will get denied anytime you try and get work done on your car. These people do not take risks with the law out here. That being said, being in a very remote part of Japan it is up to myself to fix these issues. I know that the car has to make up for the power steering pump when you turn your wheels but it still happens even when the car is sitting still with the wheels straight forward. for the lines I used the nuts and fittings they supply in the gktech kit to block off the lines at the end near the rear hicas pump. Nothing done with the hicas solenoids. It’s very hard to find 10mm power steering line here so I am waiting for some to come from online so I can loop the power steering pump and delete a bunch of the junk.

HICAS wont go into diagnostic mode. No matter how many times I've tried (100+).

Here goes a long and probably hard to follow list of another ATESSA/HICAS thats going on with the car. So whenever I put my 4WD fuses back in the car to run ATESSA I get issues with my HICAS light coming on every 10 seconds or so and then I could feel my steering jerk/get heavy for about half a second whenever the light came on. When I'd pull my 4WD fuses I wouldn't have the issue of the HICAS light coming on every 10 seconds anymore and I could drive fine with perfectly fine power steering and everything would be fine apart from not having atessa working or abs. I finally decided to install a GKTech lockbar yesterday and ever since I have I'm running into even more issues. Now with the lockbar installed my HICAS light will come on for ~3-4 seconds at a time very sporadically and the steering jerks/gets heavy for no apparent reason. Also my cars headlights will get dim and my idle will drop randomly along with these issues. Only since installing the lockbar. What the hell is going on? There's no way these issues can all be related can they? Power steering fluid is topped up and I've googled so much but cant seem to find whats going on. I know this thread is a lot but I really appreciate the help.

Just saw a leak underneath my car and thought it was a transfer case leak but it was actually gear oil.. After I wiped it down and drove it for a few days it was back but dripping down on the sides.. Which led me to believe it was coming from the top of the transmission so I checked my shifter and there's a ton of gear oil leaking from it. The last owner of the car bought one of those shitty Chinese 40$ short shifters, the one right here . It looks like when they installed it they didn't secure the shift boot onto the shifter housing I also noticed upon taking it apart I noticed it doesn't have any sort of gasket or anything. On the Nismo shifter I think I see a gasket or two that should be used? Is the shifter supposed to have a gasket inside of the shift housing or is it just the shift boot that is supposed to hold in the gear oil with no gaskets?

So I finally went around and got the AEM UEGO wideband on my car today. I'm running 14.7 at idle 14.5 at light cruise 13.5 on light acceleration and 13-13.8 on full WOT. I also only get 12-13 psi in boost with the stock restrictor removed and full breather mods. I also have an issue where my car jerks when my fuel tank gets below half a tank. Tomei fuel pump was put in about a year ago.. What I've ready online leads me to believe that I'm running way too lean on WOT. What should I start checking first?

I accidentally uploaded the same picture twice, its just cylinder # 4 that is dark like that on one side. All of the rest seem to be the same with slight color on them. So its probably an injector issue at high load? I'm afraid that it is an issue of my engine leaning out because I have my downpipe, exhaust and intakes on without a tune. Also my o2 sensor on my cat was chopped by the previous owner. I just don't understand how it could be the coils or the fuel pump when I just replaced them