bigboss59400

From the start I know I didn't needed the race/gold serie but if I could use it easily then why not Anyway I will go with the tuffbond Thank you for taking your time to answer me (as always )

Thanks for all your reply ! I would prefer to keep the PS stock and elec AC is not really possible as you mention @BK, indeed you already make some explanations but I didn't understood the purpose of the kit, now I do thanks to you "If you want to run ac they remove the outer damper ps pulley and put an ac pulley in that alignment then bolt the ps pulley on the outside of that pulley. " I didn't know the outer pulley was screwed to the damper itself !!! this is now 100% clear ! Couldn't we run the AC and PS on the same belt ? (so we need only to relocate AC ) Assuming ratio are ok find in attachment some pictures of my r34 gtr

Hi, If using a race/serie damper : - without AC, no relocation kit needed, it means that the steering pump pulley is aligned with the groove of the damper - with AC, a relocation kit is needed, I would expect only to have a bracket for the AC compressor to move it forward however there is also another pulley and a bracket to move forward the steering pump which makes no sense ? Obviously there is something I don't catch Best regards

THanks for the update ! Do you still have the ref of the angle connector ? Best regards

thank you for your comment Unfortunatly only the colors but if I have a lot of interested on this, I could look into it. Well I will provided a kind of instruction/manual for installations and obviously support Installation is rather simple, Basically it's some cover to removed, steering wheel, airbag, clsuter. Connect custom hairness and that's it. You can send your own or I can buy an used one or start from an aftermarket one

Hi, So I had this project of shift light on steering wheel for my r34 gtr started for month ago now and I finally finished it. Features are : - 9x RGB leds can be set by user - threshold RPM can be set by user - custom PCB to get RPM from cluster (so it doesn't matter if it's a stock ECU or standalone ) ! - doesn't affect cluster/ecu behavior - custom hairness (except 12v, there is only one solder or quick contact to do on a wire ) - based on OEM r34 gtr To be confirmed but it should work on r32, r33 and gtts I think I'm the only one to have something like this in the world I got a lot of good comments when I show it to friends and so I have been thinking of selling some. Steering wheel customisation will be done by a french company I will do this during my free time, meaning I don't need to eat. It's just extra. I'm an electronic engineer so I know what I'm doing (most of the time 😛 ) Price is not defined yet and will depends on how many people are interested and options asked for the stiching, carbons, color etc If you are interested, don't hesitated to contact me Best regards PS : if this kind of sell is not allowed, please delete no problem 20221120_093826.mp4

That's really good feedback as I'm not going to push any further than you do. I will go your way then

I would be interested to know what did you do at the end ? THanks

I'm bringing back this thread as I would like some feedback regarding installation and use (on a r34 gtr preferably) Thanks

Hmm somehow I missed your message @Diomedes... Cluster still for sale

Funny I ask that to HKS last week, they said 55

THanks guys for your inputs ! Keep in mind that I will use the VCAM so I will get some low-mid range there so the 2.8 is not that really justify there ? I just like the idea of having bigger bearings on the crankshaft which is only available for the 2.8 stroker... Maybe both choices are good enough for my purpose and I just need to pick one ?

Is it a retoric question regaring the number of 2.8s ? To be honest, I did not fully paid attention to this detail so I have no clue... I just noticed that Nitto is doing a 2.6 crankshaft too So now it's either 2.6 crankshaft std or 2.8 crankshaft with wider bearing or ?

Thanks a lot for your reply ! And especially to @burn4005 for your feedback on your setup which is basically the power I'm chasing (Yes I will have a crank trigger ) OK then I will put a surge tank and a coolant swirl pot I will stay with JUN as they are rated to 65 compared to kelford beehive which are 105 (too high for VCAM) 120+ even with the 25 row setrab in additiion for just a few laps that's huge ! so I guess I will not drive longer than that... Interesting to know that the car needs to be fully warmed with a billet block which is quite annoying for the street aspect... So I will stay with a new standard block + prp main cap @Piggaz 2.7 piston speed is slowest than 2.8 so more "reliable" that's why My last remaining question is : nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing... or other ? why ?

Thanks a lot I will go with nitto then - valves There aren't any lifter for 31mm circle base cam and looking into hks vcam datasheet and Jun cam specs. They still use the stock lifter so I will stay with the stock dimension lifter Regarding springs I will go with Jun (65psi and standard lift ), should be a bit harder than hks (around 55psi from the mafia ) so here are the remaining questions : - new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here) - nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing...

Thanks a lot guys for your reply The goal here is to have a reliable car that will not explod at the first lap of track and not the fastest one... I know there are more performant car now in the range of price of the r34 gtr but that's not what I want. I don't want to sound rud or whatever but can we please go back to my questions please ? - Ideal oil Temp transmission part What are the ideal and max temp for gearbox, transfer case, rear and front diff ? - Valves Regarding valves, yes I saw the topic, if I'm not mistaken the mafia went with the HKS to solve the problem So I don't know if the HKS springs would be sufficient for 30psi with 8k-8.5k max rpm ? Considering HKS cam are 31mm base, should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? I'm afraid of popping shim out with bigger shims ? - Fans All right, I will go with the metal jacket then, it should be enough indeed - Exhaust The tomei was already on the car when I bought it that's why I will check next time it's dissasembled but from what I recall there aren't any restricition even in the muffler - supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ? Well they are also making these spline gears for TOMEI, JUN,HKS, N1, NISMO housing But looks like NITTO is the way to go ? -Block new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here) nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing... Thanks for all

Thanks a lot guys for your reply I will not quote otherwise my post will became a roman @Kinkstaah indeed but it's so much better to have an electrical valve connected to the ECU so that you can have some strategy (I put the links of the interested pictures otherwise you need to be a paid member...) https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/ecu-controlled-accusump-valve https://www.hpacademy.com/assets/forum/attachments/e3487c8da2/Accusump-GP-limit-active.jpg https://www.hpacademy.com/assets/forum/attachments/8dde21111e/AccusumpLinkG4.jpg https://www.hpacademy.com/assets/forum/attachments/65b71c39b4/AccusumpStandalone.jpg I'm keeping the hicas for the moment so no room I think for a cooler on the rear (like on the r32 gtr) I will have a big capacity cover for the rear diff What are the ideal and max temp for gearbox, transfer case, rear and front diff ? I agree with you (Joshua) regarding the location of the dry sump tank (Murray_Calavera but thanks for the tips) Additional information, I'm not planning to high reviving the engine, I'm fine with 8000 @Dose Pipe Sutututu that's the goal of my topic so no offense taken at all it's the opposite in fact - Fuel To be honest I didn't perform calculation (yet) regarding the loss of pressure in the line, that's why I put 12AN... Well I will stuck with the intake pumps (I already bought them...) for the moment as I wanted to keep the boot "clean" but if I see issue I will change plan there and put a surge tank. - Valves I think they didn't specify because they don't intend to sell them if you are not using their camshaft ? And since I will be using their camshafts I supposed that's the right thing to do ? or am I missing something ? - Fans Problem is I'm not sure I will have enough room to keep the OEM fan and shroud with the ticker rad and the AC being move forward due to the ross damper... I guess I need to see when I will be there - Exhaust I agree and the half exhaust power extrem tomei doesn't have restriction So remaining "only" the other half. - washer tank replaced by oil catch tank + washer Thanks !!! - supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ? Well they are also making these spline gears for TOMEI, JUN,HKS, N1, NISMO... But looks like NITTO is the way to go ? Remaining questions : - new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here) - nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing... - Considering HKS cam are 31mm base, should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? I'm afraid of popping shim out with bigger shims ? I appreciate a lot your feedback keep going

Thanks for your reply guys ! Dry sump is the BEST solution I agree however it add some complexity, integration is also harder (I don't like to have a hot oil tank in the boot or in the rear seat), pre heat is quite necessary too, I don't like to have some oil lines going under the car ... That's why I would like to stay with a wet sump but with an accusump located under the plenum (I need to check if it's fit) The accusump will be control by the ECU. I have also an idea to put an oil level sensor as close as possible to the oil pick up and log it with the ECU... What do you think with this solution ? I went with a koyorad I believe it's 50mm or so (with one big or 2 small fans) Yes I will go for the bigger oil engine rad possible with custom duct in the front passenger side wheel well. I can't find back right now but there is somewhere a post with some detailled pictures... Indeed ! That's a good point to log the temperature and see which element I should add a cooler(s), if so I will stack them in the front driver side wheel well. Dumb question; I will need a small electrical pump to circulate the oil for such elements ? What ideal and max temp should I go for front, rear diff, transfer case and gearbox ? Best regards

Hi, I need your advice for my new setup for my r34 gtr The goal is 600-700AWHP RELIABLE with E85 and standard service meaning I don't want to dissasemble something after 2000kms Mostly the car will be used on the street however I would like to do some trackdays too without compromise "Money is not really the problem", the objective is to match the best part for my objective. What do you think of the following parts to achieve my goal ? VCAM step pro hks exhaust cam 264 10.2mm hks springs OEM valves rb26 head ported with some machining for the bigger HKS cams drain oil and water at the back oil restrictor Should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? ASNU 1500CC with single feed rail 2x bosch 525 with AN12 G35-1050 TS with 6boost manifold 6x EGT texense with EGT to can from ecumaster bosh DBW + 350z gas pedal + plazman plenum AIM MXP strada Link ECU fury X new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? but I don't think that's necessary nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 transfer case rebuild (also swapping some plate disc by abbrasive one) gearbox rebuild + added billet central case xtrem dual clutch ceramic Quaife front diff tomei power extrem exhaust with custom downpipe to match the exhaust manifold water koyorad 1x or 2x spal fans oil engine cooler (passager side) front diff oil cooler (driver side) r35 gtr alternator with custom bracket ross performance gold serie damper with crank trigger kit washer tank replaced by oil catch tank + washer ARC intercooler M073 (if temp is too high I will switch to M079; I found a used one rather cheap...) r35 gtr ignition coils supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ? oil extension sump, I have a preference for supertec but there are quite a few other options : RIPS, hi octane, leakspec... compression ratio 9.0 ? or should I go a bit lower ? Chassis is already done (r35 brake, DFV ohlins, all new bushes (superpro) ) THanks for your time !

thanks for the infos ! links are broken ?

anyone have some real data to compare between M073 and M079 ?

Anyone got any news ?

thanks for all your suggestions well it's not really for weight saying first but for the hairnesses (and maybe oil tank ) I will try my way on fiber glass or corflute

I should have been more clear,sorry Yes I meant some metal/carbon/frp sheet to cover the bodyshell Electra (UK based company ) made a few some years ago for instance

Thanks for your answers guys ! @r32-25t do you have any pictures of such installation ? Yes I saw the kit, I'm going with a R35 GTR alternator with a custom bracket, I think it will be okay Yes it's not recommended to put the tank below the pump so I will not considered this option I need to keep the ABS location free if I need to put it back for autorities... I'm still looking for answers to questions C, D1 (and D) 😛