bigboss59400

Thanks a lot for your answers, I appreciate! Sorry I made a mistake for the quaife Well what scare me is one brand (I don't recall which one) advice to dissasemble the gearbox every 5000kms to check....and based on some reading here I can see that such gearbox need quite short servicing... I'm looking into the DCT which looks amazing !! Only downside is the final gear is "only" 1.00 for the GS7D36SG And also product is quite new so I hope we get some result/review soon !

Just wondering if there is any synchromesh sequential gearbox for the r3x gtr ? I believe only quaife is the only one to produce one ? THe reason I would prefer this type of gearbox is for servicing...because dog type should be inspect quite often.. If I'm not wrong albin, samsonas, hollinger, ppe are dog type

Hello, I'm planning my future upgraded...for a power goal of 800AWD with 1000nm torque What is the best setup to upgraded a r34 transfer case ? I understand that the order of the plate should be changed to steel/plate/steel and so on to have the best grip out of it. Are there any more robust plate than the original one ? Or maybe a strong clutch replacing the original disks pack ? Should I start with a r32/r33 gtr transfer case which as a bigger chain ? Is there any upgraded aftermarket transfer case existing ? Best regards

So to conclude, My assumption was false, based on the curves I provided we can see that the wheels has locked but the ABS release some pressure to unlock them... Replacing the winter tyres by some regular tyres give a much better feeling too (but I don't think it was necessary) So at the end, a bleed of the system + some cleaning on the calipers (with a lot of WD40) seems to have done the trick....yes it was such simple French test has been passed with success this time I can finally drive legally in a few weeks hopefully THanks for having a look into my problem.

I'm suspecting some solenoids being blocked as my wheels are still locking (my feeling is it seems to be the front only ) so I will dissasemble the pump I have made a test this morning (7am at 1 degre; the road was dry but we some humidity on it; sorry I don't get the english word for it ) you can clearly see from the picture that my abs control seems to react correctly ! if the solenoids valve are in good cobdition, I will put everything back to stock : no winter tyres OEM pads new flexible hoses (avionic ) new brake master thanks

I finally got a (german) consult I was able to do the active test with success (meaning the abs pump should be ok) the wheel data seems to be ok too, they are between +/-1kmh between each other and they are matching the real speed. I was not able to do the self diagnostic with the consult; I might do something wrong in the process I guess (see picture)

so I have bleed the entire system and the wheels are still locking I have dixcel m or z type brake pads (I dont know if that could be an issue somehow ) I have order a consult 1 we will see if I am still getting into trouble I will change the master brake cylinder, abs pump and abs control unit ... best regards

I have order it G means german E means english so hopefully EG will be in english and german

thanks I already contact the seller to see if it include EE980 otherwise I'm looking into an EE980 card

Yes... because this cable and the card associated work only for R34 GTR that's why it make it so special ! some dealer even ask what is a nissan skyline r34 gtr haha

In France, no chance to find one with such device... (I mean consult I)

*Consult I sorry

Hello, I'm looking for Nissan consult II with or without cards Best regards

Anybody succeed to read data from the ABS module without the nissan consult II ? (because this tool is nearly impossible to get...)

Thanks for your answer however now I'm out of idea... I have performed the following tests : - continuity test between the wiring of the abs pump and the abs ECU - ring abs sensor are in good condition and have the correct number of teeth (46) - all fuses are ok - tyres are globally in same condition; is within +/- 10mm - I have electrically disconnected the abs pump to test it : * relay are ok (80 ohms and I can "hear" them when I powered them) * solenoid valves seems ok (4 ohms or 8 ohms and consummes 1.5A or 3A; it will depends if it's an inlet or outlet) * the abs motor is working My questions : - I have a front limited diff slip, is it possible that's making some trouble with the ABS ? - should I open the abs pump to check the valves ? - should I go for new tyres ? - where can I found the software to use with nissan consult to connect to the abs ECU (so that I could log some infos) Any other idea maybe ? Thanks for your time

on a r34 gtr too ? you are talking about the relay inside the abs pump I guess ? do you recall the reference/model of the relay so that I could order upfront

anyone ?

Hello, I have a full stock r34 gtr however the brakes locked. Brakes are fine (pedal feels good), I had to go over 90km h under rain to make it locked. no brake leakage and brake fluid level is ok. I'm using used (good conditions) winter tyres. abs goes on and off after ignition is switch on. I had a fault code 72 that I clear and it didnt get back.This fault code was relating to TPS (MFD show correctly the TP) I also checked the TPS signal on the abs connector and voltage is within spec (0.5 - 4v) I checked the wheel sensors from the connector of the abs module I got values (using a cheap chinese ohmeter) between -0.5k and +8k (depends at which speed I turn the wheel ) with average/rest at 1.2k during the wheel sensors signal measurements; I moved/shake the wheel sensors wires/connectors to make sure there is no short or open in the loom/connector/sensor. I'm out of idea ? can it be a relay ? fuses ? best regards

Hello, I'm looking for a r34 gtr the big halo lens of the rear left tail light. Or a damaged rear left tail light with this lens in good condition Or a undamaged rear left tail light ... Best regards

thanks for your reply 2% of what ? How did you calculate this ?:O

Thanks for your reply, well there aren't aligned due to fabrication mistake I guess because that's basically the same disks yes I know the pads aren't directly in contact. as you can see in the drawing the effort is not fully transmit (reduced to area between the red arrow) and I expect the metal plate to bend between the blue arrows or am I wrong somewhere ?

thanks for your reply Hmmm the manual is referring to the aligment pads ... they said it's not critical but isn't it optimal I guess ? because the efforts will not be on the full friction pads but on only 80% of them... I was going to use this clutch on my next upgrade (1000bhp with sequential gearbox ) I'm afraid that I will not get the same performance/durability if I was using aligned disks what do you think ? PS : I dont have any experience in such area so sorry for doubting ...

Hello, I bought a Xtrem double ceramic disk clutch for my R34 GTR however I noticed that the disks can't be aligned The manual said they must be aligned. I ask directly to Xtrem and they said it doesn't matter...I found it weird. What do you think ? Best regards

Hello, Can someone confirm that the Greddy/trust front differential oil cover can be mount when the engine is in the car ? BR

Hello, Typo mistake on the tittle; it should be F160 Can someone with some experience could answer me please ? Following the R32/R33 service manual and having all the correct tools, I got so far : 0.7Nm of pinion preload (intead of 0.8Nm) gear tooth pattern is ok backlash between 0.11mm and 0.15mm total preload of 0.9Nm instead of 1.8Nm and that's my concern...I can't get the carrier side bearing preload to the specifications I can rotate the ring hardly by hand. I also noticed that even if I don't put the LSD inside the case, and screw the part circle in green, the case is deforming of about +0.04mm ! (red arrow) if I put the LSD inside and a shim (purple circle) of 0.80 (which makes in my case 0.45mm of axial constraints), the case is deforming of about +0.15mm!! If I constraint more then I get of course a bigger preload for the carrier bearing preload but then I can't get the backlash into specifications as well as the gear pattern and I can't rotate anymore by hand and I feel some hard points... Is it normal to obeserve such deformations ? or is my carrier case damaged and/or the part in green ? Everything is new, except the carrier case, the part in green and the pinion and ring (they should be like new...) Are you able to move the ring by hand on your front diff ? Should I stick with my low preload of the carrier bearing of 0.2Nm instead of the 1Nm asked ? Thanks for your time