Dil-Dog

Yeah i am trying to understand... So you wanna know if its a 1. De+t 2. DET turned de 3. A true Factory DE/Na once you tell us exactly what you wanna know, we can tell you what to look for.

^ big facts @NZ-GTT in that condition i would pay 12- 13K usd

Something to also consider when you are setting your ignition timing is that according to the Workshop manual, you MUST also have your idle all the way down to 600rpms. believe it or not this is actually something that alot of people overlook. the average RB is around 800-900 rpm on idle. You just gotta be slow and easy with your idle air screw and you will get it

Do a De + T ?

The best way to answer these questions would be to contact Plazaman Directly either phone or email and that way you can know for sure what everything you will need prior to get this working... for example you have -10 an fitting on the coolant feed, i have no clue what that would be for.You should defiantly also for sure check if your stock throttle body can bolt on or if you would need an adapter (you usually do with other inatke manifolds). Check to see if they supply the nipples and/or block offs for the ports on the manifold for your vac lines. It would also be nice to get a new inatke manifold Gasket. The Greddy/freddy intake manifolds are well documented for what you will need and how to plumb the vac lines for idle air controller and what not... you dont wanna have it in your hands and try to install it and then realize your missing a bunch of stuff so shoot them an email or call for some instructions

"Front suspension on GT and GTT are the same fittings but the rears are different. GTT has a lower fork fitting and GT has a lower eye fitting where it goes to the hubs. R34 GT fitment is same as an R33 GTST so I fitted a set of secondhand Apexi from an R33. Not sure about spring rates etc. but if you go for some adjustable coilovers then it doesn't matter and R33 should be cheaper anyway. For brakes the mounting hole spacing on all of them is the same (including Z32, S14, S15 etc.). Some (e.g. R33 and R32) have 12mm threads on the front but R34s have 14mm holes. So to fit my R32 GTR calipers I used about 1cm of stainless steel sleeve (outer diameter 14mm, inner diameter 12mm, 1mm thick wall) in each bolt hole on the mounting bracket. The original 12mm bolt from the R32 goes through the sleeve in the R34 mounting bracket and into the caliper. If you have R34 GTT calipers the threads will be 14mm already so no need for the sleeve. I'm pretty sure you need the matching disks as they are a bit bigger. I think the caliper mounting points are a bit longer to allow for this - but you'd better check on that. All of my stuff, calipers and disks were off a 32 GTR. Rear calipers are all fitted straight up with the same bolts - no problems. Some helpful info here about compatibility between models ... https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120446/http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm Getting some braided brake lines made up is the easiest way to connect them. I used a banjo at the caliper end on the front and if I remember right I may have had to cut the bolt a bit shorter if it didn't fit. I just had to keep it clean of paint and use a nice new copper washer where the banjo contacts the caliper." - Quaoted from Phil. @DatsunBanana

100% the vent to atmosphere BOV... I have the exact same issue, the only way around this is what @thebe said.

I enjoy my Mishimotor Radiator with the stock Clutch fan and GKtech fan blade... but what ever you decide to do though, do NOT buy the mishimoto electric fan. its garbage and is better off meant to cool a computer or somthing. If you have the engine out the car and in pieces and offcourse... the coin to do so, My best recommendation would be to get a Nitto extended crank collar and a high end Harmonic Balancer. You will eliminate the Achilles heel of the RB's and sleep better at night knowing that you wont have shit harmonics at high rpm and broken oil pump gears that literally go hand in hand with each other.

There is NO "turbo kit" available for the RB25 to make it naturally aspirated to turbocharged. it does not exists. However, This is one of the best guide on the internet for turbo-ing a Naturally aspirated RB25: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466795-doing-a-t-conversion-on-an-unopened-rb25de-neo-r34-gt/

you should also consider the list i wrote for you on your previous post. a better working AFM on a clapped out 25 year old engine will only help your situation not fix it

Dont forget that even if u get a new ECU or "Reset" the ecu you have... your engine is 20+ years old. I would recommend doing some good general maintenance that will defiantly help your car to run right and healthier , cause to me it sounds like you may have a host of small things that all together , make your car run like shit You should start with: - New Spark Plugs - New Coil Packs (strongly recommend) - New Fuel filter (you can easily get one over the counter for a Patrol, Xtrail, Etc.) - Replace or atleast clean your Injectors. - New O2 sensor (this can improve Fuel Efficiency) - Clean your Idle Air Controller (you can check out youtube) - A dying or maxed out AFM can give you sudden and instant power/engine cuts when driving - Check your Vac lines (especially the ones that run to your IAC) - Boost leak Test - If you're running a Fuel Pressure Reg, make sure you run the right PSI - Buy a wide band gauge so you can see whats up when your problems occur Once you've done these things you should the also take a look and re-set your Ignition Timing (consult with Service Manual and not forums or mates) While your at it with the ignition timing and service manual you can take a look at your TPS and re-set it, this can also affect your idle and how your car runs

5 months now yes, i can agree this isnt very long time but this is with pushing The car on the drift courses and meets every weekend. Many of my boys in cefiros been at it for a couple years with 20det boxes on 25’s and this is why i advocate the small box because its not shit by any means and is alot more capable then what most think especially if your planning to keep it at modest/little over stock power. To me and my scene where i live..... around a 300wheelHP mark and even a little bit over 300, you got a good gear box for a hopefully some good time. Obviously its best to get a new r34 box or r33 used box but i am sure that you can use your box for a while and enjoy it.

I put a small amount of light duty non-permanent thread locker when i did mine and i agree with GTS boy... dont over tighten it and use an impact gun or something crazy

In my honest opinion, i have a rb20det box on my rb25 and i make good boost about 12-15 psi for a good while now and so do my friends and we go drifting and push our cars. it can survive and their bad reputation is overdone. i would say enjoy it and use it. When it decides to let go then i would suggest buying the r33 rb25 gear box as the r34gtt gear box is harder to find, more expensive, and with the r34 gearbox being a pull type clutch... you have less options and they are way more expensive to get clutches.

yeah i experienced something similar before when i finished rebuilding my engine, on the top and bottom of your tps are 2 screws that mount it on your throttle body. those 2 screws can be loosened and then by rocking it back or forth you set/calibrate your TPS sensor... something similar to your CAS sensor. "Ignition to on Using a multimeter set on DC Volts. Connect black probe to an earth point or negative terminal on battery. -Probe the TPS wiring with the red probe to find the signal wire which shoukd read around .4V, there will be a 12V power and Earth aswell. -to set the TPS u need the signal to read .4-.5volts with no throttle. If it needs adjusting carefully loosen the tps bolts/screws. (caution these can be tricky to undo, and dont overtighten) -signal should read around 4.5Volts at full throttle" quoted from ------ @DVS JEZ Read this aswell: (this is a good lil read) https://my.prostreetonline.com/2016/03/29/test-rb25-tps-sensor/

Bro... you are the human embodiment of the phrase "bad luck" like legit everything that can go wrong has happened to you... thats crazy! how the hell do you blow up soo much engines?

This is mad mad mad crazy! thats how coolant looks when its cooked. you can NEVER have anything touch your exhaust manifold, fix that shit ASAP. that line is more than likely fu*ked and i suggest buying a new line...

If you wanna stay relatively stock... (not opening anything or changing turbo) A nice Clutch will help but 100% a nice light weight flywheel is a great bang for buck upgrade and will make a very noticeable improvement. but if you have a r34 GTT make sure you get a pull type clutch as that is what you will need. I have a SPEC stage 3 , 6 puck and SPEC light weight flywheel You can also safely crank up the boost 2 or 3 pounds from stock with out having to worry too much. You can also invest in some high quality lightweight rims and good tires, it actually makes a world of difference. you wont believe how extremely heavy shit replica wheels are and how it affects performance. A nice supporting mod as well is a front mount intercooler, you can get decent kit from CX racing if you are on a budget. Idk where you live and your laws but my 34 is straight piped, only a single muffler tip. bro .... we can go on and on and on for hours, you gotta set a power goal and then see what you need to achieve it safely. for example if you want 450 hp, you will need X-cc injectors X-lph fuel pump X-size turbo and anything past 15-18 psi you will surely be reaching the limits of your Air Flow Meter and then at this point you gotta get a nice Stand alone Aftermarket ECU.

Not my picture but this is what i mean, you can do this with industrial grade hydraulic hose instead of steel braid for cheaper

no bro... read everything once again. FEED that picture of the fitting and hose is your water feed for your turbo and what you screw the fitting into is your coolant drain plug on the block. RETURN For the return i ran the AN-6 line from the turbo around the back of the head and it goes to the small barb/nipple on the thermostat housing and its clamped on with dual industrial grade hydraulic hose clamps provided by the machine shop who made all my lines and fittings. I will take a pic soon for you. I know there is many other ways to do it BUT i deleted the heater core and the mess of heater core hoses on the block and manifold. I have a Greddy/freddy intake so i have no coolant lines going anywhere to anything, its a clean and simple combination that leaves you with alot of room, no clutter, and offcourse no headache with that mumble jumble snake pit of coolant hoses. I can show you how to "delete" the coolant hose/heater core mess. i say delete but what i really mean is replaces the tangled junk with one fat hose and thats it. But you would have to run an aftermarket intake, i am not sure if its possible on the stock intake, never tried.

Here is a picture of my coolant feed set up on my de + t. The fitting is very easily found or can be made by any machine shop. Its a 1/4” bspt to AN-6 adapter/fitting for you to run your water feed.

It is facts that the de has smaller intake ports .... but its not the end of the world it will work fine for low boost street applications, heck some guys do up 20psi with the de head. If you are skilled and brave enough, you can do this with a high powered die grinder. However be very careful.

Hey fam, You can use your coolant drain plug which is located on the same side as your turbo... i have done this as my feed and ran my return to the small barb attached to the thermostat housing. This is a popular way that i learned from the many other people who DE + T and have success with. I can give you the exact fitting specifications you will need to match the threads on the block to the AN braided line but when i come home from work, i wrote it down somewhere. I also forged my De+T Neo with Cp Neo Turbo pistons and Manely H-beams. If you need anything or wanna see what i did, message me and i can try my best to help you

What the guys are saying make sense... spending your time and money and things that would make a bigger difference BUT i still recommend it bro, it will improve how the car sounds, you would enjoy it. Also... there is a forum here called "Naturally Aspirated Performance". you should check that one out. you are currently posted/browsing in the "Rb series" forum which is 99% based on the turbo models.

Come on Guys.. leave the man do his thing, we were all there once, and dont even try and lie about it. Blitz makes a good one that bolts up to the Mass Air Flow sensor and replaces the big ugly box.