JC71

looking for a 60-63 mm / 2 1/2 diameter T pipe like attached with a BOV flange that has a 87 mm center to center spread. is there specific term used to describe this size of BOV mounting? I find some listed as GD, RS ,FV,RZ type...what do each of these type specify?

I did read it all, but been restoring and fabricating classic custom award winning vehicles for 30 years, so I don't think some wiring and a cable will be a problem. doubt a retune will be needed, not with these changes, and not necessary as essentially everything will be "stock". just changing the location of the throttle body, wont make much of a difference, engine and ecu wont know the difference, still will get air, spark, compression, fuel, and sensor readings. All will still functions the same as same size and type of components used. additionally I am in the US, so in a few years if someone around here gets experience with tuning these cars properly and or I can obtain the proper software, program, etc. and experience, then maybe someday a tune will be done, simply to optimize potential performance.

10-4, that's what I found, wanted confirmation, too many place sell stuff claiming its right and half the time its not, I order them up ,thanks

I found two used throttle bodies both claiming to be from a R33 RB25DET, I bought both, when one showed up it has a large center rod with a flat side for the center drive of the TPS. The other has a much smaller center rod with a smaller cross rod through it making a "X".....this style matches what my rb25det neo engine has, so I will be able to use this throttle body and my org wiring and reuse the sensor itself. I don't know why the other has the other version (both said TB from S2) but no matter I was glad I ordered both, as I found one that will work nicely.

I am converting my r34 gtt intake from factory cross over to a front facing intake. eliminating all excessive front mount intercooler piping and traction control etc. I have acquired a nice intake for a non neo rb25det and a r33 throttle body with the same tps as my current neo setup. I have modified ,drilled, taped/made partial reduction flat plate and gaskets, and now the throttle body is mounted to the intake and I have acquired most other parts to do this swap. my one last concern is the fuel rail and injectors. the intake is for a rb25det non neo (r33) and from what I understand that uses side feed injectors, but the neo uses top feed injectors. I have heard mixed reviews from people some saying the neo fuel rail and injectors fit fine others saying simply a large O ring is needed and others saying it cant be done. can some one clarify if the neo stock fuel rail and injectors can be installed onto this intake, and if so what is needed. (the intake looks to be a greddy style front facing intake) thanks

I believe it is a r33 throttle body form any rb25det that will work, so I ordered one of these up, we will see.

if anyone else is wondering, they rotate nicely and with care can rotate them to any orientation without issue. in doing so I was able to eliminate the cross over hose from rocker/valve cover to cover, routing around the back and opening up the space above the coil cover, making the engine look much cleaner.

like the title says, I am asking for clarification as what stock throttle body should be used when putting front facing intake on r34 gtt rb25det neo engine? (shortest type possible, but stock size, proper electrical and cable connections and wont alter run-ability, as the stock r34 gtt is simply too long, as it has dual "baffles" traction control, type throttle body.) I know I 've seen this info below but couldn't locate it. r33 rb25det non neo? gtst? series 1, 2?

Will the two valve cover pcv fittings rotate? I believe they are pressed in. I am wanting to rotate them to reroute the hose that currently connects the two.

wow!!!, what a difference a manual boost controller makes. simplified everything, and cleaned up the engine bay even more. It's a good steady boost now, I set it around 8 for now, no dual stage crap, seem to improved spool up delay, sounds better, and I don't have to push rpms so high to get power and torque. A few other tweaks and I think this thing will be ready to rock. The turbo air movement rushing sound is still there and loud as ever, even though I found no play in the carriage shaft, I am convinced its from the turbo itself, as has over 100K miles and its the original stock turbo. I plan on replacing the turbo itself over this winter as all the other turbo system components are correct. I found and acquired a new old stock RB25DET NEO Nissan OP6 turbo 45V assembly, which I will swap out both nylon and ceramic wheels with steel ones. thanks to all who helped!

much apricated, thank you.

I would assume the hot pipe would be referring to the intercooler piping that comes right from the turbo headed towards the intercooler, and the cold side would the be the pipe after the intercooler headed towards the intake /throttle body? if this is the case, do I want it as close as possible to the turbo or furthest from, to get the most accurate reading? and would the factory fitting on the turbo elbow be the perfect location for the pressure line for the boost controller??

not sure what you are calling a hot pipe... but your saying to eliminate all hoses here, cap all nipples. block line off the aluminum elbow off the front/top of turbo, and block the one off the steel hook pipe in front and above that, remove solenoid, and both those lines. drill and add nipple to this intercooler pipe? in pic at red arrow, (as similar to where stock had one) and run a line for "pressure source" to the manual controller from there, then the out the controller to the wastegate?

I looked it over last evening and took a few pics. trying to simplify as much as possible. cap or remove whatever is not needed and add two lines, to and from the aftermarket manual boost controller. there is a nipple on the aluminum/cast elbow between the turbo and intake filter, another on the steel "hook" pipe in front of that, that looks to be connected to the rubber pipe between the turbo elbow and intake filter as well. the one on the wastegate, and the two currently to stock solenoid valve

where is the best location to connect the pressure source line to the manual boost controller???? my rb25det neo has a front mount intercooler, and therefor the stock fitting (like in attached 1st pic, white arrow) on the upper intake pipe is not there. I only see one other smaller hose fittings on the stock intake cross over pipe before the throttle body, just below the recirculation or "BOV" valve. currently has the blk and red little "filter" in this line. (2nd pic whit arrow) Able to put in a T and use this one? I have also seen some pics where people appear to have T into the hose going to the recirculation valve nipple??. please advise. thanks.

can one remove the stock wiring, bracket and "dual stage (5-7) solenoid" control assembly, if installing an aftermarket (turbosmart) manual boost control?

do the RB25det neo equipped Stagea's have a boost solenoid (value controller) that is set at 5psi until rpm is greater than 4500rpm and then its 7 psi, like the R34 gtt's?

turbo removed and inspected, actually hoping to find a broken turbine shaft or something, (would explain a lot) but it looks great, no play or noise of bearings, solid connection on center shaft, both wheels and housing look fine inside and out, actually a lot cleaner and better condition then I expected...so I put back together and took for another drive, since I now seen other videos with similar sounds, I pushed the rpms' higher from 4-6k range, and got anywhere from 5-7 psi boost boost being created by turbo. so it appears turbo is making boost fine, however still the sound remains the same, the type of sound I would image if one side of the turbo wasn't connected to anything, (the sound of a leaf blower or hair dryer wide open end) is there anyway something could be preventing the air that is being forced out of the turbo to not be directed into the engine intake properly??, I checked all piping for blockage etc. none found. still the power, torque and acceleration seem low, as it almost feels like the boost that is being built up is actually holding the engine power back and or its not being directed into the intake properly? I am tempted to make a super short U pipe to go right from the turbo out to the stock intake pipe and completely eliminate the intercooler and piping system just to isolate it.

I guess I just didn't think I would hear so much air movement and it being so loud, as it twice as loud as in the video above, I understand how it works, but figured with the intake and exhaust all being connected to the air created by the turbo system, that I wouldn't hear so much of the air itself moving, as it would be going to the engine intake or out the exhaust. as far as I know I am making boost, it just doesn't feel like it is being used to increase the engine power or pull, maybe I am just expecting too much from a little 2.5L attached is the read out of my boost gauge during different stages:

I did find a video of a rb25det neo in a r34 gtt with a similar sound, in this video when he is accelerating from inside the cab I hear the same type of air sound, around 45-53 seconds and multiple other times when he accelerates...so maybe its normal and fine??

well, no luck again.😞 I got home after work and took the entire system off, intake, intercooler, all piping , connections, turbo elbows etc., inspected everything. Everything that makes up the intake, turbo and exhaust system , manifold intake and exhaust, all nuts were present and tight, all gaskets looked like they were sealing fine, I find no cracks, loose fittings, restriction, leaks, nothing.... I reinstalled it all test drove, same hair dryer/leaf blower sound anytime I give it throttle, and we are talking half to 3/4 throttle, and under 3k rpm's , as with this noise and it being new to me I wanted to make sure everything is good before I push it, or drive it aggressively. then I swapped out the 50/50 aftermarket bov for the stock 100 percent recirculation version, another test drive, same exact sound. (except no "ppsssh" sound when I let of throttle.)... I wish I had a stock intake to try as it does have a Apexi intake on it and I wonder if this is causing the loud whooshing sound. I also did a few more various leak pressure tests , 5, 10 and 15 psi and found no leaks in the system. wastegate push rod seems to be moving correctly and is connected as well. turbine wheel seems to be smooth ,stable, intact and very little to no play. Still seems like a lot of hesitation and low power, doubt I could get rear tires to even spin, I expected a lot more punch based on what I have heard and seen with these 25 neo turbo engines. I have never seen or heard one in person, but can't imagine this is correct. I am going to try to see if I can get a much better video of this sound

I will go over it again, a leak would make the most sense and also explain why I have a high idle issue if I plug the iacv in...I have had everything off, inspected, and replaced every coupler and hose in question, new clamps, reinstalled and basically soaked the entire system with soapy water and find nothing... could there possible be an issue with the wastegate rusted open?? from sitting so long? again the air sound literally sounds like a 3 inch open pipe blowing or sucking air, not just a small passage, very strange. it does sound like the turbo is creating massive air flow but like its not being diverted or flowing into the intake/cylinders, it seems to have very low and delayed power. do appreciate the help

here is the video, again really hard to hear but in person its very loud 20240703_175734.mp4

I drove my ER34 for the first time since I got it, It sat for 4 years in Japan, and i got it 7 months ago, have done a ton of work, garage test ran perfectly. (no air suction sound) BUT when accelerating (under a load) it makes a loud air suction sound, or anytime I get into the throttle...it sounds like a leaf blower. I also noticed that it did not seem to have very decent pull or power, and the boost gauge doesn't seem to go much above 0, its stock other then full exhaust, apex intake, 50/50 bov and front mount intercooler. this is my first Turbo car so I don't know if this is correct? I did take a video but for some reason it is very hard to hear in the video, in person it literally sounds like some one has a leaf blower under the hood...my first though was a leak?? however I have check over all lines, clamps, hoses and fittings. thoughts?

my question is will the A/C compressor clutch automatically turn on and off as needed to attempt to maintain temp according to the cabin sensor and a/c display control temp setting? I ask because I vacuumed my a/c system, then added about 19 oz of R134A, which is what it appears the conversion is for the approx. 540g listed on fender tag. (has proper pressure in system) A/c compressor will turn on the instant I push the ac button and turn up fan, but it appears the compressor clutch turns on and off sporadically, a few minutes on then a few off, then back on again for a few, over and over, until I turn it off... its plenty cold and smells, fine, and no leaks are detected. I thought it may be designed to do this?? similar to how my new GMC truck automatically turns the compressor clutch on and off depending on the load required from the engine for other things, such as when I am accelerating on to the freeway, the a/c compressor clutch will turn off until I'm up to speed as we all know the a/c compressor pull a lot of power from the engine and can severely slow acceleration.