Jason062100

http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ these are the ones I was looking at. Are these the ones you are referring to?

There is one so I may just use e85. How come the e85 hp range is so much lower than gas?

The Injector Dynamic injectors have a horsepower range of 800-1200 HP, 1000-1400 HP. Should I go for something within my range?

Does ISR make good quality fuel injectors? I'm also curious if they are compatible with the Radium top feed fuel rail that I bought. I'm looking to buy some for my RB25det http://www.isrperformance.com/isr-performance-top-feed-injectors-750cc-set-of-6x/ and was wondering if this would be a good purchase. I'm shooting for ~400hp.

I think i’m gonna go with a haltech or maybe an aem

My setup is gonna be a GT3076r shooting for above 400hp and I wanna run a Tial Sport Q 50mm BOV. Is 50mm gonna be too much. I don't have that much knowledge when it comes to BOV's.

I heard somewhere that some of them came with oil restrictors built in. Is that just straight up wrong?

Thanks just wanted to make sure so I dont mess something up.

I got a Gt3076r for my RB25DET. Does anyone know if there is a built in oil feed restrictor or if you need to do that separately. I can't seem to get a straight answer.

I did clean the Idle air controller and I think the year is 89. I’m having the exact same issue as someone else and his ecu got shorted out when the maf wire got burned. So we ordered a new ecu. If that doesn’t work out I’ll look into the cas.

I also don’t understand why it won’t even start with everything plugged in. It will start with the maf wire unplugged.

I haven’t tried a pressure test I’ll look into that, thanks.

Some time ago my Rb25 S13 started having an issue. It was idling higher than it usually would. Driving at a high rpm felt like I was getting barely any power. I posted on reddit and a lot of people said it was most likely a vacuum leak. So I did a carb cleaner test and looked for one everywhere and couldn't find anything. I was also told I should clean the IAC valve so I did that and nothing changed. Then I noticed the maf wire was laying on hot parts of the engine and it was burned badly so we bough new wire and a new maf connector and soldered all that together (I think I did it right but I could have done it wrong). Doing this did not fix the problem. I was then told we needed a new maf so we bought one for pretty cheap ($16 or 23.16 Australian dollars) and put that on the car and still nothing. It is still acting the same. Any advice would be greatly appreciated because I'm at a loss. The link below is the most recent video of the car.

I’ve noticed recently that the revs are weird and not stable all the time like it likes to jump up and down. Also it has been running higher revs idle by like a hundred or so. While I was driving it it just died and it doesn’t want to run well though it will crank and stay on as long as I hold the throttle. This problem has stopped since the other day when this happened but the idle still runs bad.

I'm confused as to how the pcv works with the oil catch cans. I thought I understood that the oil catch can connects to the two pcv valve cover fittings via two hoses and you need one more hose that connects to the fitting on the right that connects to the intake for vacuum. So how come people run setups like in this picture where they don't have that vacuum and instead go straight to the oil catch can?

No not really.

The stock r33 transmission.

Hello. I own an RB25DET swapped 1989 240sx and I've been having trouble with the speedometer. Whenever I'm driving, it seems to work, but it only works up to roughly 15 mph. The lights such as seat belts, fuel lights, door lights, etc. work correctly. The tachometer works fine as well. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jason.