McGarryR32

Hi folks, currently in the middle of a V-cam build and was under the impression that it required pistons with valve recesses. Talking to supplier there was miscommunication and I ended up ordering 9:1 CP pistons thinking that they had recesses. now I’m being told there’s gonna be a 2+month wait for customs or HKS step 2 pistons and really want to get the car out for summer. (in N.Ireland lead times are insane thanks brexit) Can anyone confirm if it can be done ? came across a post here where somebody said they did but I can’t for the life of me find it.

Regards wiring for the fluid level I’ll be honest I didn’t bother with it. It was checked for leaks then I just keep an eye on the level hasn’t budged in a year. I’m sure a plug could be got that would fit and then it’s only a couple wires if you really wanted. Also get a heat shield around your ABS unit, I made one up out of some aluminium and helped a lot.

Was unable to find one a good booster for my R32 so thought I’ll try and do an R35 conversion. First drive with it there and brake feel and stopping power is incredible. The bolt pattern for the servo at the bulkhead is identical so no drilling needed. However bolt pattern and angle of mounting for the master cylinders are different so you’ll have to use a 35 cylinder. The “U” the clevis pin goes through is shorter on the 35 but can be swapped over for your original one as they’re the same thread. You’ll need some male to male fittings for standard brake lines to extend round as the fittings for the brake lines are on the other side for the 35 unit, you’ll need fittings for the cylinder (I think 7/16th, I’ll be honest I handed the parts guy the cylinder and said get me something that fits that) I’ll likely redo these with braided lines and banjo bolts in future. Finally you’ll need some 10mm fuel hose to connect the vacuum reservoir to the booster as the fitting is on the other side

Hi all, booster is on the way out can he’s rut leaking. Does anyone know where I could source a new one or an alternate one that could directly fit or made to with with some minor modification. Thanks

Hi all, so looped hicas power steering lines as in the guide bellow https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453561-a-complete-guide-to-removing-the-r32-hicas-system-inc-looping-hydraulic-lines/ Now the wheel shakes like mad only when turning right however. I’ve gone lock to lock maybe 30-40 times and no more air coming out of the reservoir. Any ideas or have I missed something silly ?

Hi, anyone know of a rebuild kit for a 32 gtr rack ? i can get one for a GTST/s13 but I think they’re different could anyone confirm ?

Hi all, So I’ve recently changed the nitrogen accumulator in the R32, since doing so however the car seems to prime for longer when the ignition turns on and it seems it’s longer every time. bleed mode connector doesn’t seem to do anything now. Before as soon as you unplugged it you could hear the pump starting. Now nothing happens. I’ve bled it a few times, it seems all the air comes out, but id leave it a week do it again and still get air. no ecu fault codes and the relay isn’t clicking in the boot. There’s no leaks also. Any ideas what could be wrong ?

Hi all, recently changed the nitrogen canister on my r32 and installed a doluck dtmiii,Now when I go to bleed the system when I unplug then bleed switch under the dash it doesn’t seem to work as before, It used to make a noise as soon as it was unplugged and connecting the switch on and off for the air gap doesn’t do anything, before as soon as you cracked the nipple open the pump would start working, now it just seems random, no warning lights or ecu fault codes. I’ve tried with the OE G sensor too and still the same issue, Any ideas ?

Hi all, going to change this soon. How does one relieve pressure from the system before changing ? Any does anyone know where to get the service tool ? thanks

Hi folks. Wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for a kit or a list of fittings for a single turbo conversion. BG 8374 Sizes for blocking the rear oil return, oil feed size, water return etc, also what size hoses to use ? Thanks

Going to bite the bullet and go single, so twin setup is for sale. 2860-5s with HKS actuators, braided oil and water line £1200 HKS turbo elbows £100 Reimax equal length downpipes £350 HKS intake piping kit £650 Ported stock manifolds £100 Will do a good deal if bought as a package. Located in N.ireland

Think I’m gonna go with the single, even for the fact I can sell my current setup so itl be more cost effective. Just wondering what it would be worth ? 2860-5s with HKS actuators, 7k Miles with Braided oil and water lines HKS elbows Reimax equal length downpipes Ported OE manifolds HKS intake kit ( not sure on these they’re in good condition but they’re very pricey new https://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-piping-kit-special-type-bnr32.html Has anyone used the .92 8374 ? I know it’s been covered but I’m more interested in drivability than dyno numbers

Ive yet to find a tree that grows money. ??

Sorry I meant to say 97 octane here in N.Ireland If i was looking at a BW it would be the .92 IWG option, with the turbosmart actuator upgrade. From what ive read it tends to have better response and the turbosmart unit helps with the top end. Ive seen those dynos before UpGarage I think ? As i say my main goal is response and driveability. Surely the turbo cant provide the same low/mid as a turbo ?

Hi all, Wondering what to go for. Currently at 580bhp on 95 octane. 2860-5s with tomei type b cams. Im looking get just over the 600 mark and extract more response. options are the following V-Cam step 2, Pros : Definitly more response, more power across the entire rev range Cons : Reliability ? still using outdated turbos. Not sure if my wossner pistons will work with it. BG EFR 8374, Pros : will see more power, less clutter and heat soak in engine bay. can sell current setup to reduce costs Cons: possibly spending 3k for 300rpm or so spool difference Vcam wise i cant seem to find any videos of an R32 with it, yes there are many dyno graphs but that doesnt translate to 2nd/3rd gear pulls and street driving etc. Single turbo also sounds alot better, and you get the glorious SUTUTUTUTU noises which you dont get with twins. Any advice ? its a street car with some track use.

Looking for an upgrade to the 4wd on the R32. I know it’s been covered but I can’t seem to get any direct comparison or experience. Looking at the full race, or the do-luck dtm II . has anyone any solid info on how they perform or which one would be best suited to a road car ? Thanks

Any idea what this noise could be ? Sounds like it’s coming from inside the cabin which is strange. And it’s not just in my head a few mates all agree. So it has to be something from between the wheel bearings and the rack, putting the sound into the cabin. Bearings seem fine and grease either side of discs, so could it be something to do with the rack ? Possibly even power steering pump. Happens in both directions so it’s looking that way and yes, there’s plenty of fluid in the system and the belts tight. Anyone experienced anything similar ?? E111E929-C03F-423D-83EB-59C9DFD43DF4.MOV Hicas has been blocked off too by previous owner could it be related to the 3A07ABC6-F942-4D05-9E2D-C05303008C1B.MOV 3A07ABC6-F942-4D05-9E2D-C05303008C1B.MOV 71C2D01A-A3DC-4A70-9A1F-74E82D7A21BF.MOV

Hi folks. looking for a attesa upgrade. Had my heart set on a DOLUCK DTM II however I’ve stumbled upon these https://www.rhdjapan.com/grid-attesa-digital-imu-sensor-unit-bnr32.html problem is I can’t find any reviews or feedback back on them. In theory the gyro and g sensor should work brilliantly however does it enhance or alter the ecu signals like the DTM ? Or is it just a better sensor ? has anyone used one ?

Thanks folks ! So ive an after market oil pressure sensor anyway and if it’s only neutral and reverse lights how does that explain the fault code for the attesa ecu ? 20 flashes meaning faulty harness ?

I know they are but they’re impossible to follow. Spent a few hours looking last night and no luck

Looking for a diagram of the transmission wiring loom or even a few pictures of the under side of your cars would be great ! Seems somethings flew up and hit the underside of the car causing part of the wiring loom wrap around one of the shafts and cause havoc. Wires are green, green/yellow, green /white, yellow/blue, yellow/white and black with silver spots. It had blew a fuse as well and wasn’t giving any 4wd lights. Sorted that, now getting 20 flashes from the ecu meaning harness is faulty I was going to just rewire it’s as I don’t fancy 200+ on a new one and the effort of pulling it all out and looks like I’d have to take the intake off too. Im fairly sure the ones circled are the ones I'm missing. So yea if anyone’s a diagram or any photos be much appreciated cheers ! It also took these out obviously not oem and not sure of orientation but I’m sure I’ll find out. Going to the steering rack

Had recently changed transfer fluid and bled attesa using Nissan matic D, also changed a cv boot on the front right shaft. Everything done to the manual. About 30 miles after this I Was driving down the motorway about 70mph Suddenly a bang/rattle from under the car, could feel vibration from the tunnel in the footwell. The torque gauge shot Up well past 50 and stayed there. Pulled in checked under the car nothing hanging out and no leaks. I’ve a switch wired for RWD flicked it and decided to drive home and have a look, the steering felt heavier and there was a very slight rattle from under the car. Jacked car up, shafts all seem ok. there was a thin green and yellow wire wrapped around the driveshaft. Also some Non OEM wires seem to have been ripped out of the power steering rack. Also spade connectors on them which were also pulled out. Have absolutely no idea what these are for. No 4wd warning lights and the torque gauge will quickly rise fall a bit then shoot Up past max when ignition is on. (See video) Any ideas ??? Guessing transfer box is f**ked ? EE3B34D6-C193-4923-BB8B-DD1F84C92275.MOV