G2trop

Got them going again pulled all fuses and relays check wiring was a couple shorts blah blah works now after about a few hours 😁

Trying to get my headlights to work but there is no voltage at any of the plugs. The car was dissasembled a while ago and i have been putting it back together. I did not touch the main body loom only the engine bays loom. I did some testing with a multimeter and there was no power at the headlight stalk connecter on red/blue and no power at the relay in the engine bay. I found a red/blue wire in the boot and that has 12v i followed the loom up under the dash and there is no voltage at the plug (seen in pic) if anyone has any ideas or a good way to trouble shoot i would appreciate it as i am shit at electrical.

Found out a little more about it the machine shop did all the work but did not assemble it. I had an engine rebuilder take a look at it he said it looked like something had got in the bore while it was assembled. Told me it was better off running the motor it would just burn a little oil and might smoke some more on boost cheers.

Hi i have an rb30 i purchased a while back it was rebuilt by a shop several years ago and sat around ever since. I just was looking in the bores today and noticed cylinder 2 had a scratch i can feel a bit with my finger nail the rest of the bores are fine its just this scratch. I was hoping to make 330hp on this motor. Looking for advice on what to do i really do not want to forge it as its very expensive i wanted to know if anyone has encourantered something similar thanks.

Cool thanks bro just didnt look like it was connected to anything when looking the the box cheers

Thought the battery from the boot ran through the inside and up to the ecu for main power (obviously not). The cable it self had no lines coming off it so thought it might be for jumping. Wanted to know if i could remove it because the car is a shell and i am restoring the underbody one less thing to put back in that looks old. I don't know much about electrics so when i looked at this diagram and took my fuse box apart i didn't see any connections between anything. The green cable is the one i am talking about.

Hi i have a series 2 25det r33 coupe i was wondering if the large positive cable that runs from the boot underneath the car along the chasis rails and upto the fuse box could be removed without causing any problems. As far as i know its only used to jumpstart the car from the engine bay which i will not be doing does this cable effect anything else? Cheers.

Hey guys ended up being one of my boost lines and my inter cooler piping that had blast off thanks for the help shes running now

Thanks for quick reply's really does mean alot. It does move in all gears reverse etc... it just "braps" so it kind of just hops along and won't drive smoothly. Sorry for the description i wrote in in a hurry pretty bummed right now because of what happened. All i heard was a loud bang and the car just sort of died. I will check the intercooler piping Tomorrow as it is pretty late and i have a long work day tomorrow.

I was driving my car late last night when i was at a stop i shift into first (automatic) i decided to give it a bit of gas not full throttle and then i aggressively shifted into second unsure when i heard a loud BANG my car started to splutter and lose throttle and the Check engine light came on. I pulled over and the car sputtered and died so i went to investigate and didn't see any oil or fluid leaking from underneath but i smelt a burning of some sort maybe clutch? After i pushed it home i tried to turn it on the engine light went away but it now has some sort of lumpy idle like BRAP 1 second BRAP 1 second this happens in neutral drive reverse and first gear anyone have suggestions or theory i am thinking a blown gearbox? but would that cause the weird lumpy issue thanks. TLDR shifted aggressively in an auto heard a bang now car is lumpy in gears and idle

Thanks for the reply I thought it might be something to do with the ecu as well but I will look into the other faults

Car - factory turbo auto series 2 r33 I am having some issues with boost after going full throttle. What seems to be happening is after doing 1 or 2 pulls typically in 3rd gear it will basically stop boosting the boost gauge will go up to maybe 3 or 4 so psi (running stock boost) and have the same constant exhaust note (loud drone) regardless of what gear it is in. To fix this i usually pull over turn the car off and wait 5 seconds then it returns to normal no constant exhaust note and boosts how it should. I think it might be worth noting the transmission Is pretty stuffed its the factory Auto gearbox and after warming up it will slip from 4th to 3rd with overdrive on and what sounds like 3rd slipping occasionally after heating up. I have changed the trans fluid and filter that seemed to prolong how long the gearbox took to slip. Any advice would be greatly appreciated i plan on manual swapping this car when i have the funds for a big box so if the trans is the issue it would be a relief.