Strexx

Hi guys on this rubber hose issue - Can I simply replace the hose with a rubber house equivalent cut to length, or do I need some genuine moulded parts?

Guys thanks for the advice - I think I found a mechanic in Seven Hills who's given me the confidence to do the job... Thanks again

Hi All, As I have no service history on my stock auto R32 GTST so am considering replacing the timing belt - As I have no service history, (well I spoke to the last mechanic who put a sticker on the car and he only did a service on it and although I asked for a price for a new timing belt - he never corrected me to tell me it was replaced) - I was thinking for my own peace of mind that I probably should replace it - at least it gives me confidence knowing that it was done at a certain date, but here's the thing: What if I don't replace it and it breaks, will it totally stuff up the engine? - What's the definition of 'stuff up'? Should I even bother replacing it? Apart from obvious wear - What should I look for to see if its on the way out - or am I just wasting my money How hard is it to replace the belt, myself (I saw some DIY instructions on the forum) When I priced the cost via a mechanic or three to replaced the belt, they suggested that they do the full kit - I assume this includes: Belt, Water Pump, thermostat, crankshaft & camshaft seals, idler & tensioner bearings. The cost for this works varies between $1100 - $2095 !! I'd be keen to hear your thoughts... Also - any recommendations for a local mechanic in the Parramatta - Hornsby area. Cheers

Sounds like what used to happen on my VW Beetle - Thanks. Where are these located towards the tank?

So I've noticed that there is a distinct petrol smell coming from the car - not that I have noticed a loss in fuel as I'm not driving it daily and I have not had it on the road long enough to know if it leaks but it does seem to consume a bit, but I thought I'd start off asking you guys of any known issues with petrol leaks or odors that are likely with an R32.. Where should I start looking? Are the fuel lines all steel or are there rubber pipes for joins - I assume that these may have perished - Could be the cause? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks all - Yep seems that I have a task ahead of me - Nevertheless the I got a Blueslip last week (Without a 24 pack) - I guess the trickiest option will be to get it under it with enough space to grind/weld - Need a hoist!! But I've completed two years at TAFE doing metal forming so have a bit of an idea of how to get there - Just don't have the tooling. With regards to rust most of it seems to be surface rust not horrid corrosion - Ideally I'd like to try and pull out the dents first - Surely if I can get it up enough - I could make a rig with thread bar/Unistrut that could ease out some of the divets but thinking that a cut n weld replacements in is the best option. I found a place in Japan where the replacement rails are about $100 a piece. Whilst I'm at it what is the best product to use on the under body as a deadener sealer? BTW the Datto works look great!

So all four points where it would be obvious to jack up my R32 GTST have bent/crushed chassis rails (See photos - one from each point) So has the car been jacked up from the wrong point? Would you usually jack up the the car from the chassis rail in front of each wheel? Where is the recommended position to jack up the car from both back & front? I have been jacking up the rear as per the last photo. Next question is can this ever be repaired, I would only assume that some sort of steel plate could be welded across the damaged area. Lastly - I had a wheel alignment completed and the mechanic told me that the chassis rails were all bent - I hope he meant compressed/squashed but he was not chatty so I don't know if he meant that this would affect the wheel alignment - Does the damaged rails pose any other concerns?

Is this club still active - what events are planned?

Was pushing pulling the solenoid whist whilst tapping the brake pedal but there was no movement..but worth a try I guess..

I know I've posted this before but I'm struggling to get a solution - I have an intermittent fault whereby the T-Bar shift remains locked and the only way to allow me to place it in a gear is to use the front manually shift lock button. Sometimes it works fine and sometimes it doesn't. I've replaced the switch atop of the brake pedal and thought that that fixed it but it did not. After replacing that switch I remember hearing a click on the solenoid at the T-Bar but that has since stopped and the T-Bar remains locked continuously. I've checked the fuses and nothing has blown. Today I opened it all up and did not find the solenoid stuck (See photo (with hook)) so I simply unscrewed it from the mechanism and taped it aside. Now it never locks - it can't. So I made the assumption that this particular solenoid must be broken and I should go buy a replacement. I'll try to buy both solenoid (3470 Select lock - Shift lock) & switch (34980 Switch Assembly - Park Position) - This seemed the most appropriate way forward. However, whilst search through E-Bay tonight I came across a Shift Lock (2854001U02) and I'm trying to understand where this fits in and the likely hood that this item may also be part of the problem. Where is it located? So although the issue is resolved it not a true fix - and that's what I'm aiming to achieve. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Update - Replaced the switch on the brake pedal and the t-bar remained unlocked - I could hear a clicking sound at t-bar but that sound has since gone and the T-Bar remains locked up again - This is doing my head in - any ideas?

Car stuff - Otherwise I'll post something on FB

So I'm off to Japan next week for work, heading to Tokyo & Osaka - Just thought I'd put it out there .. What can i BUY in Japan for that is almost hard to obtain online? What should I go SEE?

Cheers thanks They are genuine rims yep?

Sydney so I guess that's a no - this side of rego

So being new to this scene - I have no idea what offsets are. I can tell you that the last set of tyres I had on the car were all of a different brand! Yes all my new tyres are same brand, same size, same batch, RS4'sall bought at the same time. The wheel sizing is 16 x 6 1/2 JJ 40 - It's my understanding these are genuine - are they? (See photo with old tyres) In hindsight when the tyres were fitted the wheels were balanced and one wheel was slightly buckled. (On their advice it's on on the rear). So if it has had a hit - How can I identify what is outta whack and what needs to be replaced?

Thanks guys but the new tyres are exactly the same size as the old tyres I just replaced - Is the 5mm space legal in NSW? If I do not use the space or if I do for that matter will this impede my Blue Slip? Are spacers the only fix?

I had a win and got the AC head control unit working again - So there was no activity whatsoever of the control unit - No LCD and the buttons worked occasionally but you never got feedback to know what the buttons were doing. So I pulled the centre console out and then pulled the AC control out and spent ages trying to pry out the cable connectors at the rear with no success. Simply could not get them out of the unit. So I stuck it back in and then proceeded to remove the stuck on facade.. This was stuck on with double sided tape so I gently eased it off. There were then three screws to remove in each corner - with these removed and a little prioring of the clips around the edge, the front LCD display and circuit board pops off. Where the horizontal circuit board join the other LCD vertical board - there are about 20 pins that slot into the board to make contact. These were simply corroded or tarnished enough that there was no connectivity. I gently rubbed the pins with some very fine wet n dry - You could see the dust/corrosion coming off in the sunlight - I sprayed them with some electrical contact cleaner and put the two boards back together screwed it up and turn on the ignition to test and hey presto all the LCD came alive and every button cycled through it expected mode - So I put the centre console back (Saw the radio retro fit which was shite - but I'll fix that up next) In changing modes the levers move and open close the door actuators & blend doors - they are bit stiff and make a groaning noise but they all seem to work as expected. It heats and I'm sure the AC needs a regas for cooling - but it works as expected. I hope that this helps some one else with a fix.

I've heard a rubbing when I steer sometimes - It was not until I was under the car this weekend that I figured out what the issue is .. My LHS front wheel is rubbing up against the stabilizer front bar, not hard on it but enough to rub against it. Whereas my RHS does not rub against anything. Any idea what may be causing this is there something to adjust? The tyres are brand new 225/50R16. See the photos for a clearer explanation. You can see how close the tire is and the rubbing mark.

Here's a question though - Do you think that this paint would stop/hinder me getting a Blue Slip?

When we used to weld fuel tanks - taken off the vehicle - fully drained - left to dry out for a day or 2 - connect them to the exhaust pipe of another car and fill 'em with carbon monoxide for about an hour or so and - then have the courage to start welding

Thanks for all the advice - I'll try to get to it over the weekend - Hey is possible to buy a kit to regas your own AC or do I need to have it done? How can you check to see if you need a re-gas?

Just a heads up Hankook RS4's are available at Bob Jane on a buy 3 get 1 free promo now... Just bought four yesterday for $525 - Bob Jane Hornsby great service.

So I've had a hunt around these forums and can't really find an answer: My AC control unit will not power up - well there is no LCD activity - in fact there is nothing, however - There is an aftermarket switch on the dash which does power the unit up - well the lamps/leds on the fan and the recirculate button illuminate.... and nothing else. The unit blows air and I feel that it was getting cooler at one stage but then it just blew warm - I will check the ambient temp sensor on the centre console to see if that is connected. At one stage when I pressed the Econ button and then went back to the AC button, I could hear strain on the motor as if the AC pump had switched on but I could not replicate it all the time. Are there any typical issues with the AC unit not displaying anything on the LCD panel? What a fix? I'd assume it needs a regas - but is there anyway to confirm? Any advice would be appreciated.

Steer me to the relay harness please