Strexx

That'll do - but are they all the same size?

I'm running Maxpeedingrods Coilovers - Does anyone have a set of spanners/wrenches/tools they want to sell me cheap? Are these a standard fit for coliovers - will any type do?

Heads up if you are about to complete this job - I've done the research (In Sydney) On the assumption that you take off the steering mech and take it to someone, here's what pricing I got: Pedders = $680 Mr Racks = $345 Active Power Steering = $550 Sydney Spare Parts (Hornsby) = $250 Sydney Spare Parts turned it around in less than a week and have done a smashing job - I highly recommend.

You guys are legends - Yep that was it - Pulled it out and opened it up- bit of wet n dry in the three conductors, plus the terminals on the outer and hey presto! Thanks again

So my LHS headlight (Projector) is not working but my RHS headlight (Projector) is. But both of the adjacent lights are not working. For now I am trying to work out why the LHS Projector is not working. The lamp is brand new The lamp is seated correctly in the metal frame with the clip holding it in place When I test with a 12V lamp circuit tester - I get no voltage whatsoever at the connector!! when I pull put the cables going to the headlight I've checked the 15amp fuses in the engine bay - visually they look fine, but even with a multi meter they are testing OK. I pulled out the relay in the engine bay and reseated it again. Can anyone advise how to: A - Test the relay to see if the fault is here B - Advise what else could be causing the fault My next problem is the adjacent lights to the projector lamps on both sides - Why would these not be working and ideas? Thanks in advance.

Still have this problem - But I have found out more info. So to recap, the shift lock was not allowing me to move the Tbar - this was very frustrating as I had to use the unlock button every time. Then I left the car for about two weeks whilst I replaced the steering rack and when I lowered it down to the ground the TBar worked - In fact it worked for about 3 days then it locked again....It remained locked but today I jumped in the car and it remained unlocked all day - been pushing it back and forth and it will not fault. I did jump under the dash and took a look and fiddled with the switch above the brake pedal (Mind you my brake light are fine) and found nothing.. So the fault remains intermittent - Can anybody tell me what it possibly could be that is causing this issue. Doing my head in!

No - Still looking for someone

?May as well simply buy a box of Sharpies and colour it in ?

Hi All, So my black R32 used to be wrapped and we've peeled off the wrapping to find that every panel has been rubbed back with at least 800 - 1200 wet & dry - I mean there are fine scratches everywhere - and some of the paint is peeling too. (See photo) Honestly it could do with a new paint job but I dont have the dollars just yet. So a mate of mine was saying he would be surprised if the car of that vintage would actually have a clear top coat and we should just cut & polish it and it'll probably come up pretty good. Can anyone confirm if the original paint on a 1990 R32 would likely have a clear top coats and - If we were to cut & polish would it get through most of the scratches? Is there a particular type of cutting compound to use - What steps should I take? Any advice would be appreciated.

Alignment done - Perfect

GTSBoy you come through again - just watched some YouTube vids and that so easy! Thanks mate

But I no longer have the measurements !

So I replaced my power steering rack and front tie rod ends (and rubber mounts) - All good accept I can visibly see that my wheels are not truly aligned - I did originally measure the distance between the centre tie rod to the edge of the boot (using a template but never recorded the measurement) and wound the tie rod to what I thought was the original position but its obviously not right. So I then referred to the GTR manual and its telling me that L = 126.50 which is nothing like my measurement. Is this L measurement standard with the GTR & the GTS-T? Can anyone provide me their measurements from the boot edge to the front of the lock nut for the tie rod. Obviously the intention is to get a proper wheel alignment but being the cars currently unregistered I want get it in the best position with a fresh set of tyres before rego. Thanks all

Thanks but although I have a GTS-T how can I find out my wheel size? Where are they usually marked?

I'm confused when it comes to wheels & tyres - I have a R32 2 door GTS-T the current tyres are a 255/50R16 - Ploughing through these forums I cannot see if these are the standard tyres - Should I buy the same size again? I think the wheels are standard 5 studs and there are no oversize panels. How do I measure the wheels correctly? What do the numbers mean? ***/**R** When I look at the usual online selection choices for a R32 GTS-T they seem to be: Falken - 225/50R16 Bridgestone - 225/50R16 Michelin- 225/50R16 Bob Jane - Front: 205/55/R16 & 215/45R17 Bob Jane - Rear: 225/50/R16 & 235/40R17 What size should I buy?

I've just rebuilt a LHS headlight on my R32 from two broken units - They look exactly the same. I've taken the glass lens off, swapped out the internal reflectors and now have reassembled without telling the wife I used her oven. As I've reassembled it I notice that the wiring harness was slightly different. Infact on closer inspection I see that the lamp housing of the bulb style section is now different to the original unit that saved from the old headlight. This image shows what I now have and am seeking the correct lamp to purchase. The below image is the original lamp housing The wiring harness comparing the two is in the image below - The connector on the right is what I have now. Please tell me the correct lamp to buy and can anyone share with me why the lamp housing may be different? I don't really want to rebuild the headlight again.

Looking for a space saver spare wheel and tyre in good nick - Ideally Sydney

Mee too

So it sounds like its all relatively easy then?

Yellow Pages - Does that still exist?

Hi so was considering to attempt replacing the Power Steering Gear & Linkage on a 1990 R32 but wanted to seek some advice. Firstly the reason I've come to the replacement decision is that there looks to be power steering fluid leaking from the steering gear/cylinder (Under the car) - I noticed that both dust boots are split in half, I thought that this was the problem but further Googling implies that the rubber seals in the cylinder are shot and dust boots simply just keep the dust out and do not seal the oil. So my thinking is to either obtain a second hand unit or a refurb unit but fit it up myself. Before I proceed I wanted to get some advice on how complicated this job would be. Apart from access which looks OK if I can get enough height under the car, it looks relatively simple on the assumption that I bleed the system correctly afterward and get a wheel alignment. Is it just a matter of un/bolting the device back up with all lines reconnected - I suppose the trickiest part would be to separate the tie rod ends (May have to buy the tool for that) replace those rubbers too. Was not planning to touch any pumps, reservoirs or electronics. Are there any other considerations I have over looked? Currently the car is unregistered so getting it anywhere is all too hard. Can anyone suggest where or whom can rebuild/supply a new steering gear in Sydney? Thanks

Thanks GTS Boy - You always have the answers ?

Hi, For a 1990 R32 what should the spare wheel be - Is it normally a full size or a space saver? Thanks

So for clarity replacing the boots if you have a leak is pointless - Need a rebuild or a swap out. Boots just prevent dirt & dust?