docang

According to my local tuner my ultimate's the latest version 'E' board and only reqir the 2nd adapter which was duly installed as shown in ur pics. At first when ultimate was installed and tuned on dyno with setting at 5v, 3 splitfires were burnt and this was allegedly due to boost/rev cuts generating heat during tuning for both afm and map sensor maps. Car's auto and dynoed at crank: 390 din hp and 55.1kgm with the autotrans slipping. So the issue with car not be able to ignite is whether my stock ecu kaput or ignition circuit fried or cam angle sensor wayward and now waiting to source for another stock ecu to find out and still awaiting a clearer picture of the 5v to 12v settings from Trent... dyno1.pdf

This adapter came together with the ultimate board order and was fitted onto motherboard when initially installed in my car. I can try to get a picture of the motherboard and post here tomorrow. As for the 5v to 12v setting is there any advice from maker to set it so or any mechanics behind this?

This morning changed setting to 12v start the car drove off and stopped after abt 2km parked the car at 10am. Came back to start car 1.30pm, cudnt start after several tries and half hour later. Got the car towed to workshop to test electricals: 1. Change back to 5v, still cannot start 2. Took out cam angle sensor, spin it and check with ohm meter and oscilloscope 3. Fuel injectors signals ok 4. One coil/spark out of head, check no sparking 5. Ignition input signals ok 6. Ignition output signals not detected 7. Swap to another ultimate board - still the same no sparking 8. Disconnect ultimate and using stock ecu - still no sparking 9. Open up stock ecu - motherboard looks ok with no smell of burning Suspect stock ecu affected so meantime sourcing for another stock ecu to test or cud it be the cam angle sensor but the injectors signals functioning. My tuner said the ultimate installed is the latest version using the 'E' board which allegedly does not require any ignition adapter. The adapter is a mini-board attached just above jumpers J7 & J8 and this to get rid of the engine check light. Is there another additional adapter making a total of 2 adapters required as I saw on the Nengun website Adapter 1 & 2 are needed for ER34 engines. So is my stock ecu or its ignition circuit fried? What's the mechanics of setting to 12v when the coils are rated 5v and did this setting send back any rogue currents to affect stock ecu? Is there any set parameters made up by the makers Trust? Appreciate any help and advice

Adapter was fitted(but need to check if is 1521500) and in addition my tuner also put in resistors for the coils. Originally splitfire coils were on and when tuned initially 3 were burnt and suspect the silicon covers on them were not so tough. Still on 5v setting coils were changed to stock ones and these have not yet succumbed to heat. All the while intermittent misfirings at idle and low-mid end. So this morning change to 12v and after that no issues with misfiring yet. Wl go drive and monitor this aftern. Pls adv the mechanics for setting the jumper to 12v when the coils are rated at 5v. Thanks!

Hi Trent, The voltage measured at the coils is 5v for GTT - when setting it at 12v, why wont this fry the coils? My car completed installation and tuned with ultimate this week and in the process 3 coils were burnt on the top part just below the connectors - with the setting at 5v. Saw your advice too late and only this morning got my tuner to change and he is apprehensive abt setting to 12v so wud like to know the reasoning behind the change to 12v. Thanks in advance!

Hi there, Hks turbos use inconel material for their turbine blades and so is it the same with Garrett turbos, high-flows and other makers? Tks.

--------- My Hks 2535's failing after 75k kms due shaft play setting in and making wailing noise. Have ordered the gt-rs and hope its a better choice than 2530kai. The gtrs is stronger from 3000rpm and has just slightly less response <3000rpm. From Hks web: gtrs: 2530kai: