Dougy1997

You were right was the cam timing guy marked a white line on wrong tooth on exhaust cam gear and took cas braket off and noticed the little dot was like 9 tooth out and hardly visible and i lined the white lines up on intake and exhaust last time just redone timing to the little dot and it started up weird how they marked a random tooth on the gear though as the intake had the tooth with the dot marked white.

Was pulled apart when i got it as the old owner started to part it out and i lined the marks up on the cam gears and the crank when put it back together have checked it a couple times and they all line up have got fuel lines around the right way with the feed line going to the back of the rail and the return coming from the regulator but had to replace the exhaust cam gear is there a difference between the turbo an non turbo ones with just the pulley that bolts onto the cam ?

Not sure how to test them just read a post online to check if shows 5v when spin it and it does and the car wont start not sure if it has anything to do with it but everything else i've checked is perfect and still doesn't even give it a pop like it has no spark only way got the smallest backfire was when i disconnected the afm and have just replaced it with a brand new one and made no difference at all have replaced everything i can think only thing left is the cas and ecu then if that dont work will just strip it was wondering if anyone had any other ideas what it could be or are these cars just made to have a tiny problem and end up being parted out and scrapped ?

And yes injectors are pulsing an coils are sparking everything i've checked is normal just wasn't sure how to check the cas and it doesn't even start on starter fluid was thinking power while cranking and have no spark then but i checked and got power to everything even when cranking

Yeah i checked the 1 degree and 120 degree pins it was hard to find the spot where it has 5v constantly on them as it jumps around abit while in between them and if connect multimeter to one of them while cranking it shows 3v constant are they suppost to only show 3v constantly while cranking or pulse 5v or 12v ?

Hi people i recently bought an r33 that's been converted from a rb20e to a series 1 rb25de (was running before) and have just redone the head and it's not starting it has power to everything even while cranking it has fuel , spark ,heaps of compression has a brand new air flow meter , igniter module , new spark plugs but cheaper ones ,coil pack seals i've tried swapping throttle position sensor , clamping the return line in case was fuel pressure but it doesn't even start with starter fluid can only get the slightest pop out of it if i disconnect the afm checked timing 3-4 times is spot on tried checking cas and get 5v on one spot but it's real touchy if turn it half a mm it will say 0.20v and it shows 3v constantly while cranking not sure if it's normal i have checked everything i can think of and i'm almost ready to call it a loss and just strip it for parts. anyone had this problem before or got any ideas ?