syd_gtr

I had this issue and it turned out to be massively wrong timing making the exhaust valves open too soon. The tuner had seen too many rb26s of all kinds and I think they forget what stock is supposed to be like. They just said to me dont worry about it, metal doesnt melt at that temp. timing probably isnt your problem just saying that you know best that it has changed, so get to the root cause.

It is amazing to see a 30 year(*) old R32 HKS car one second off a GT3 cup car (not really, it is a replica of the group-A car with half a million pound build budget) https://www.facebook.com/ricwoodmotorsport/ (Ric Wood also had a commodore running which came 9th)

thanks, head unit has the alpine backpack amp which has helped immensely with the door speakers as it is 50w rms x 4 continuous, vs 4x15w or whatever the headunit had built in. Did these go in without drama apart from pulling the rear shelf or were new mounting rings needed.

thanks well dakota got back to me and said if the input is AC then the modified output will be AC as well. (it will cross ground). for the price, which buys probably an hour or two at a re-calibration shop, am getting close to just trying it then will sell it used, if it doesn't work.

I do not mind taking the dash cluster to be adjusted however have not found anyone that knows what they are doing with it. The error has been constant for a decade+, and is in RPM as well, (needle vs ecutalk) so I do not think it is the sender, and I do not see how it can be in the cluster firmware, so that means it is in the little units behind the two needles. If they can be adjusted for error, thats great. can they? I cant find any evidence of that service, with lots of google effort. edit: asking humphery instruments in the gong what they reckon. will update

If someone can see an adjustment option on the back of the r34 dash circuit board then they're doing better than me. Also who knew Nissan decided to add a "4wd oil temp" light but didn't implement it? Yeah the Dakota seems like perfect as it has bluetooth adjustment and it has the twin function of RPM and Speedo in one unit. However in the case where the dash does the job of not only displaying speed, but also converting the speedo signal for output into attessa etc, there is an extra possible problem & I'm wondering if anyone has used one in this particular scenario. I don't even really understand why my stock dash is out. It is reading 115 at 100 but stock ratios, and v close to stock tire circumference.

so the cluster takes an ac signal input and outputs two square wave pulse trains to the rest of the car. I asked Dakota if their gadget accepts AC and they said yeah it does, and will output a squared off sine wave… so I am wondering if the dakota one will work ok. If the cluster is expecting an AC triangle of varying volts will it be ok with whatever a correction black box puts out? I do not want to splice into wiring, then find out it does not work…

yeah inside front guard. the pic is in nissan epc it looks like a long special shaped foam piece. apparently skyline wreckers just toss them.

inside the front wing behind the door jamb there is a frequently discarded foam block (discontinued). Will pay for one you have in the shed. Alternatively will pay for pictures of one with a mm ruler in shot that can be used to make new ones Also, will pay $ for a rear under attessa unit plastic cover. (discontinued).

dumb question how did the old Group A get 600hp out of 1.2-1.3 bar and a 2.6? 17psi to 18psi and 440kw at the crank at 7600 rpm? Did they do it with the race gas, porting and cams, or? Eg the A45S with 2.0 gets 415bhp (so about same specific power per litre) but needs 30psi.

zenmarket has worked for me(tm) for dozens of things. After you use them a lot they give you a line of credit. A lot of things are blocked by default but unblock request is fast. You can combine/repack items, remove documentation, their fees are low but beware how you fund your account because of fx or credit card fees. DHL has been super fast from Japan as well. Like, days.

both sockets are same place and both sensors have similar wire length. good idea on pulling a coil plug that would make that bank rich for sure so I will try that to settle it if necessary. nissan epc which is the origin of the snapshot pic of two cables says -24u00 is the front sensor and -24u01 is the rear and has gotta be authoritative, (the ecu pinout diagram I pulled from the r34 “supplement-I” manual seems misleading). so front, -24u00 is square plug, but on ecutalk showed as the second voltage number which is why I started double checking if I had installed them wrong to begin with.

Can someone please confirm if o2 oval plug is front or rear and square plug is front or rear? because part listings at kudos and efi for lambda sensors seems opposite to the scanned copies of manuals online, though not sure the manual is correct given they come from random downloads. The first pic comes from nissan epc via Amayama but it is hard to see the plug is drawn differently. In fact one of them I found labels both plugs as "rear" -- ugh. Since I removed my bad sensors to install new ones I can't even check my car anymore. ecutalk seems to agree the square plug is (R) for Rear -- if the second voltage is "rear" and the first voltage is "front".

Sorry to create a new thread but searching old ones gets outdated information. What is the current best choice for a rear speaker pair in r34 that uses stock mounting (replaces stock speakers) and is slimline or at least has minimal to no increase in depth? thanks.

according to https://www.50ignite.com/nissan-skyline-r33-gtr the R8 coil pack is not compatible with some ECUs (fcon not mentioned as either compatible or not compatible). Maybe fcon is also one of them.