syd_gtr

I had this issue and it turned out to be massively wrong timing making the exhaust valves open too soon. The tuner had seen too many rb26s of all kinds and I think they forget what stock is supposed to be like. They just said to me dont worry about it, metal doesnt melt at that temp. timing probably isnt your problem just saying that you know best that it has changed, so get to the root cause.

It is amazing to see a 30 year(*) old R32 HKS car one second off a GT3 cup car (not really, it is a replica of the group-A car with half a million pound build budget) https://www.facebook.com/ricwoodmotorsport/ (Ric Wood also had a commodore running which came 9th)

thanks, head unit has the alpine backpack amp which has helped immensely with the door speakers as it is 50w rms x 4 continuous, vs 4x15w or whatever the headunit had built in. Did these go in without drama apart from pulling the rear shelf or were new mounting rings needed.

thanks well dakota got back to me and said if the input is AC then the modified output will be AC as well. (it will cross ground). for the price, which buys probably an hour or two at a re-calibration shop, am getting close to just trying it then will sell it used, if it doesn't work.

I do not mind taking the dash cluster to be adjusted however have not found anyone that knows what they are doing with it. The error has been constant for a decade+, and is in RPM as well, (needle vs ecutalk) so I do not think it is the sender, and I do not see how it can be in the cluster firmware, so that means it is in the little units behind the two needles. If they can be adjusted for error, thats great. can they? I cant find any evidence of that service, with lots of google effort. edit: asking humphery instruments in the gong what they reckon. will update

If someone can see an adjustment option on the back of the r34 dash circuit board then they're doing better than me. Also who knew Nissan decided to add a "4wd oil temp" light but didn't implement it? Yeah the Dakota seems like perfect as it has bluetooth adjustment and it has the twin function of RPM and Speedo in one unit. However in the case where the dash does the job of not only displaying speed, but also converting the speedo signal for output into attessa etc, there is an extra possible problem & I'm wondering if anyone has used one in this particular scenario. I don't even really understand why my stock dash is out. It is reading 115 at 100 but stock ratios, and v close to stock tire circumference.

so the cluster takes an ac signal input and outputs two square wave pulse trains to the rest of the car. I asked Dakota if their gadget accepts AC and they said yeah it does, and will output a squared off sine wave… so I am wondering if the dakota one will work ok. If the cluster is expecting an AC triangle of varying volts will it be ok with whatever a correction black box puts out? I do not want to splice into wiring, then find out it does not work…

yeah inside front guard. the pic is in nissan epc it looks like a long special shaped foam piece. apparently skyline wreckers just toss them.

inside the front wing behind the door jamb there is a frequently discarded foam block (discontinued). Will pay for one you have in the shed. Alternatively will pay for pictures of one with a mm ruler in shot that can be used to make new ones Also, will pay $ for a rear under attessa unit plastic cover. (discontinued).

dumb question how did the old Group A get 600hp out of 1.2-1.3 bar and a 2.6? 17psi to 18psi and 440kw at the crank at 7600 rpm? Did they do it with the race gas, porting and cams, or? Eg the A45S with 2.0 gets 415bhp (so about same specific power per litre) but needs 30psi.

zenmarket has worked for me(tm) for dozens of things. After you use them a lot they give you a line of credit. A lot of things are blocked by default but unblock request is fast. You can combine/repack items, remove documentation, their fees are low but beware how you fund your account because of fx or credit card fees. DHL has been super fast from Japan as well. Like, days.

both sockets are same place and both sensors have similar wire length. good idea on pulling a coil plug that would make that bank rich for sure so I will try that to settle it if necessary. nissan epc which is the origin of the snapshot pic of two cables says -24u00 is the front sensor and -24u01 is the rear and has gotta be authoritative, (the ecu pinout diagram I pulled from the r34 “supplement-I” manual seems misleading). so front, -24u00 is square plug, but on ecutalk showed as the second voltage number which is why I started double checking if I had installed them wrong to begin with.

Can someone please confirm if o2 oval plug is front or rear and square plug is front or rear? because part listings at kudos and efi for lambda sensors seems opposite to the scanned copies of manuals online, though not sure the manual is correct given they come from random downloads. The first pic comes from nissan epc via Amayama but it is hard to see the plug is drawn differently. In fact one of them I found labels both plugs as "rear" -- ugh. Since I removed my bad sensors to install new ones I can't even check my car anymore. ecutalk seems to agree the square plug is (R) for Rear -- if the second voltage is "rear" and the first voltage is "front".

Sorry to create a new thread but searching old ones gets outdated information. What is the current best choice for a rear speaker pair in r34 that uses stock mounting (replaces stock speakers) and is slimline or at least has minimal to no increase in depth? thanks.

according to https://www.50ignite.com/nissan-skyline-r33-gtr the R8 coil pack is not compatible with some ECUs (fcon not mentioned as either compatible or not compatible). Maybe fcon is also one of them.

Interesting. A restrictor would function for pressure reduction if there is airflow, but also a damper of some kind to moderate the function of the solenoid, which has a duty cycle. Guess I'm going to have to try to find out from someone in Japan what's up with all this and/or some trial and error as you say.

thank you! in S15s according to a digram on nistune the two pills supposedly bracket the boost that the solenoid works with, via a ratio of one to ‘tother dia. Would this second one logically be larger or smaller than the normal one? I guess its function is to raise the boost floor the stock system works within. on an s1/r1 would the normal one (the one commonly removed on stock r34s), have a larger hole than standard? (am helping a friend get his r1 boost control system back to stock. in the dark with these two restrictors, a bit)

I believe there is a second brass air flow restrictor pill somewhere, I think it damps the feed of manifold pressure to the stock boost control system. Does anyone know where it is, and if its the same diameter as the famous one that is often removed to get 0.9 bar? I remember a post saying one is under the intake manifold, I guess in a tube feeding manifold pressure, but someone else posted it is built into the metal pipework.. If one is reverting from an ebc and both pills have long gone, would like to know where it is supposed to be fitted, and if they are interchangeable.

I wasted a ton of time searching for topics on this so for the sake of people in future who may be searching, here are the reasons why if you look at your cam angle sensor it isn't in the middle of the slot. Tyndago has said on gtrusablog that if the cas is not at or near center on a stock car, you should be asking questions, and he is right. Reasons 1. an aftermarket ecu can handle the cas twisted anywhere. You just have to set it up at the ecu in the mapping tables. So for example the cas may be deliberately positioned at what looks like max advance so that the owner doesn't muck around in a bad direction. 2. there is a cam gear and the exhaust cam has been adjusted, and the cas has been twisted to keep ignition timing the same rather than setting the ECU. 2a. the ignition timing is way off. and all is ok if the cas goes back to center slot. 2b. the cam belt is installed one tooth out and then the base timing was set. You now have 7.5 degrees of cam advance/retard 3. there is no cam gear and no programmable ecu but someone has decided they want to advance or retard ignition a little. The degrees twist from slot center is twice that number for ignition timing. So for example, a cas twist similar to "one tooth" out is most of the slot, and that's 1/48th x 360 x 2 = 15 degrees of ignition change. 4. there is no cam gear and no aftermarket ecu but the cam is aftermarket and the press fit locator inside the exhaust cam (looks like an offset slot, for R34, that is tilted somewhat with respect to the four bolt holes) is not quite right, so the CAS was twisted to get the base timing correct again. 5. the cas has a broken locator (meshes with the metal shape inside the cam) and this is causing all kinds of issues 6. the head and block have been machined and this changes the geometry slightly. I don't think this is worth much movement in the slot. 7. final answer. The stock sprocket has elongated bolt holes and locator hole and the bolts have been done up such that the cam is rotated from where it was supposed to sit, this is the backyard cam gear solution and you can't see it unless you either degree the cams and discover that with the sprocket marked tooth lined up with the backplate, the cam is twisted, OR, loosen the sprocket and see how much play it has on the cam. This final answer turned out to be my problem. I've seen this "backyard adjustable cam gear" mentioned for other motors, but could not find any threads on this for RB26. Unless of course nissan stock cam sprockets all come with elongated holes? I don't think so, as they have the same part number for exhaust and intake and one of mine had elongation applied to all holes and the other just to the locator hole.

SOLD

a) it isn't my car with the disconnected hose, I was curious if this was common. b) I like to know how things work in detail. stock, the solenoid is normally closed, is it also slightly leaky? perhaps it is better not to create any topics at all on sau - since everything has been asked before even if it can be difficult to find the exact reply, and of course there is a manual to refer to if one doesnt want to know the whys of something.

thats right. however if you pull the front hose off at idle at least mine is sucking a vacuum like in rhythm. I can feel it. so is it broken? (it is new). It doesnt screw up idle like removing the other hose to it does though. and why would this beautiful nur pfc have it open to atmo? maybe there was a hidden boost controller and this was not connected? would be news to the owner though.

on a minty nur 34 with a power fc his factory boost solenoid (the oem one fixed to strut tower) was open at the pointy end to atmosphere. No tube. No aftermarket boost controller. mine, whether electrically connected or disconnected sucks a pulsing vacuum through that end at idle. It seems to make a slight difference to idle (open to atmosphere vs not) is a factory boost sensor supposed to leak vacuum? is it normal to have it open to air?

see my for sale parts listing with pics decided to sell it.

thanks to one of the two replies I found an ecu on gumtree and bought it for the two brackets only. all good. anyone want an r34 gtst ecu ?