propeine

PM'd

Cheers from a Yankee! I used to live in Greenville SC (and am headed down there this weekend actually)

Indeed it does work out nigh identical. What advantages do I gain with the Xtreme for a street car not including the disadvantage of needing to wire it?

Any specific posts? Holsets with the silencer removed admittedly have a sound that differs from most turbos. I'm 36yr old engineer and far from ricer but sounds still matter lol.

Just like the title states. They're $1400-2000 new here in the states, NZEFI will get it to my door for ~1200USD due to exchange rate but I presume someone has a used one out there. Thanks for looking

http://www.isrperformance.com/isr-performance-rear-upper-control-arm-nissan-240sx-89-98-s13-s14/ Those ones. Also fit the rear of the R32. Seems that my options are VERY limited for poly bush setups in the US unless I buy them to swap out for rose joints or make them myself. I know people with mandrel benders and work in a weld shop so there is that. I also have a mill and lathe in my garage if I wanted to make a voodoo type arm but thought it would be easier to just purchase. I'll check SPL too. I remember them being somewhere in the middle of the road price wise.

The S14's, and my both my Subarus have the wires in the fender wells so I didn't make much of that. The person who routed the wires from the RB26 swap didn't do it in a manner that is easy to follow or where the factory tie points would have been. I'm not entirely sure where a lot of it is is SUPPOSED to live but I'm sure it wasn't intended to be wedged behind the power steering reservoir. Oh I don't want to go cheap for the sake of being cheap. ISR seems to be an actual name as opposed to china special. Just don't want to overpay for someone's fancy name. I'll look into Hardrace if they're available in the US. I like the idea of bushings over rod ends. I don't recognize most of the names in the Nissan world just yet so this is more of a query of who is worth giving money to. Cusco is the only one I recognize. Nope just the factory "PCM" system. The Link G4 recommends an aftermarket one on the passenger side. Just in the planning stages on that but will need done prior to spring anyways. Sounds like a heck of a plan to me. Less grinding/squawking from the inevitable crap in them. I've got a spare cooler around here somewhere. Just need to find it. Maybe 6x6. Probably overkill but the cost is right and it shouldn't hurt anything. Thank you again!

Alright, new questions have arisen gents. I'm still in "clean up and learn" mode. Does anyone relocate the wiring for the MAF's, injector resistor pack, etc through the fender? Above the inner fender that is. Does anyone relocate the injector resistor to a similar area? If I can do both of these things the wiring is entirely "clean" in that area once I move my power steering reservoir forward to the rad support. Only wires towards the middle/rear of the motor are the O2 sensor wires and some unknown plug that had nothing in it. Is there any reason I can't just run an oil cooler on the passenger side to the rear of the power steering pump? Once again, tubes everywhere driving me nuts now that they have no reason to run to the drivers side I'd like to eliminate all that. I've got to make some phone calls tomorrow but I see a lot of Haltech support rather than link here in the USA. Anyone have any opinions? Additionally Link specifically says you have to run the boost solenoid on the passenger side much closer to the turbos so I guess I'll be extending that wiring and moving it either way. Finally, any opinion on ISR rear camber arms? I need something and these are much cheaper than most of the others.

Who designed the plumbing on these things?! Don't get me wrong its neatly done but holy hell is it convoluted. Got the HICAS bits removed today. Bit of a pain in the butt due to all the other stuff in the way but then again, thats exactly why I'm removing the unnecessary things. Currently just looped to stock cooling lines but maybe move all that crap eventually. Battery is out and being moved to the trunk, probably going to relocate the power steering reservoir this week as well. I anticipate needing the space where the battery was for meth eventually. Where do people relocate their boost control solenoid?

It's connected to the loom still. There are two large plugs there and I have what appear to be standard yellowtop injectors. It was mounted to the strut tower. In an effort to begin considering cleaning up some of the wiring mess I moved it towards the fender. Gotta figure out how everything will fit but I take it that's not the standard location? Ya I did some looking tonight. Seems relatively straightforward to trace out the lines and get it looped back although access may be an issue to some of it. I'll read some writeups and see what I can sort out.

Gotcha. I kinda wondered if thats where you were headed. They are indeed very dim. Lower on the priority list than much of the other stuff but I did it a long time ago with Lexus RX330 projectors in my Talon (Eclipse). Its a ~300-400 dollar adventure after all. Thank you! Since 2002 and Gran Turismo 2 I have been waiting to own one (forbidden fruit and all that), so yes its a heck of a feel. I'll definitely need the knowledge and have gained some in just 2 days here!

Intake air temp unit? The Link unit seems like an excellent value despite being 3 times the cost of a Nistune. I much prefer speed density to MAF based units personally. I can tune with either but SD eliminates more plumbing and is more intuitive even if it is slightly less flexible to parts changes. Boost leaks are less dangerous as well and it plays nicely with meth injection. This doohickey? Was on the passenger side of the engine bay on the strut tower which is why I couldn't figure out what it was. Quite far from any injectors. Says JICAS on it and the A16-000XXX numbers. Injectors will need changed eventually anyways so at that time I just get high impedance injectors and call it a day? As for the actual HICAS (not the spanish pronounced JICAS) thats an excellent tip about plumbing in an oil cooler where the rear lines would have gone before. The rest of the parts will definitely be getting out of the engine bay considering its already cluttered enough. I'll have to look for a proper delete kit as I do have the spindly little tie rods on there still which gives me the shudders.

Oh I forgot, recoating the hood and fitting an actual grill are high in the list this winter too. As for the headlights maybe he meant HID retrofits?

Retro to what?!

Hello, I'm new and from the USA. I had never looked at anything more than a picture of an RB before last month but am now the owner of an RB26 swapped gtst that was done in Japan prior to import. I was told I might make a build thread to document my process. I'm not sure how interesting it might be to watch me learn an entirely new platform over the next 6-8 months but I'm sure I'll have questions so here we are! 1990 GTST Manual Coupw Unknown vintage rb26 (black top) swapped presumably in 2006. Japanese title had 2700km marked for 2006 and it only has 23,000km on the odometer now. Remax front pipe Tomei Cam Gears HKS Pod filters Sorta shitty 3" exhaust (sounds good but not mandrel bent mid pipe) Nismo Gauge Cluster Sparco seats Someone cut multiple holes in the dash for gauges but they are no longer there. Bilstein Coilovers GTR FRP front bumper that doesn't fit very well HICAS block installed Random temp sensor probe near the mid pipe I'm sure I'll find more as I go through it. Plans for now are to pour over it this winter while I can't drive it anyway, aftermarket ecu (link g4 most likely) or nistune, wideband, boost gauge, oil pressure. Go through all the 30 year old wires and hoses and make sure everything is up to snuff. Probably remove unnecessary ancillaries to declutter the engine bay, battery and washer fluid relocate to the trunk. Getting the bumper to fit better and polishing off all the junk on the paint from sitting for years. Plans for next year (probably end of warm weather) will be to likely go holset single turbo as I love how they sound and I made big power on them with a 4G63.

Thank you and DC is only 5 hours from me! I actually got the car down near DC. I learned something new today....my car once had HICAS (I thought only GTR had it) but now has a lock bar and the rest of the stuff wasn't removed. If I don't get all wheel steering, the rest the bits will have to go. Additionally I have a Remax equal length front pipe (apparently good?) , and some unknown temperature sensor sticking out the bottom of the car about halfway back through what looks like a factory grommet.

The 26 was a bonus as far as I was concerned. I was more than happy to pick up one with a 20DET in it but this came along for $13,250 USD which is around 4k less than what GTS-T are going for here stateside and I jumped on it. I will most certainly need ALL the help with the build thread. Just last night I spent 20 minutes searching for what the silver box on the LH strut tower was (it turned out to be a resistor pack). I opted not to register/insure the car for the winter here to have 4 months to go through everything without being legally allowed to drive it. Not like it was going to be worth a shit in the snow anyways. First step is going through hoses, wires etc and checking for boost leaks. Second step is getting some semblance of engine management and proper gauging (Wideband, boost, oil pressure etc). NISTUNE, Link G4+, or others are on the table. I'm pretty much on my own for tuning anyways which is fine but we don't exactly have renowned RB tuners here stateside.

Conversion was done in Japan prior to import. Came in through texas. No real history other than what I have from the importing documents. Below is the original auction not where I bought it from. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-r32-skyline-non-gtr/ HICAS setup in the engine bay is still there despite being no need. Charcoal canister etc still there. Upper Cam cover was missing although it has Tomei cam gears set at +2 on the intake side. The FRP bumper doesn't fit so well due to having GTS-T fenders. It only had 2,700km on the Japanese registration in 2006 and 22,000km on it in 2012 so I know the Nismo dash has been in there for quite a while at a minimum.

Hello from the USA. I recently picked up a 1990 GTST with an RB26 swap. Turns out there isn't much of a skyline community in the states so everywhere seems to lead here or to British sites in my searches. Figure I may as well introduce myself. I'm not new to boosted cars having a long history with Stations, Eclipses and Subarus but this is my first Nissan. About the car 1990 Black Gtst Rb26 swapped seemingly stock aside from HKS pod filters Nismo dash cluster reading 23000km FRP gtr bumper (ewww) Carbon fiber hood Recaro seats in pretty good shape. ECU either was or is chipped but not with a nistune board. It has a socket on it though. Coilovers (forget the brand but gold and i'm in bed. Name brand not knock off) Car runs great, revs out fine, spins tires once spooled through 2nd, driver seat could stand some upholstery. Intent Get Wideband and Nistune to be able to see what is going on. Drive it for 6mo or so to make sure everything is in good working order. After that we will see. I have a minor chubby for holset turbos and would likely look to move that route to clean up the insane amount of plumbing/wires. I made 519hp in the eclipse with an HX35 and meth injection. That seems like a reasonable end game goal again with 1/3 more displacement.