BourneToLive

Correction. Ignition was on before, but I guess the car had to be running for it to work.

Made a bit of a discovery, but while I was cruising, I randomly decided to test to see if it worked and it showed up on my IC7. The entire time I tested it before, I never thought to turn the ignition on. I only tested it with head lights turned on but with the ignition off. Huge oversight on my end. I’m a dummy. I know.

It did work on the stock dash. Having it working on the IC7 is what I’m chasing. It doesn’t matter to me much, but there’s no information on how to do it out there and people who have done it are gatekeeping the information . it will most likely come up again in the future.

Yes the high beams work perfectly fine. That’s why I’m so puzzled by this. I will try to make a video testing the wires later today or tomorrow.

I know what you mean. I don’t why my situation is so different. My parkers also have a ILL+ and that’s the one I used, and it works just fine. In the video I posted, you can kind of make out the dash in the background. Towards the end of the video, the high beams are displayed on the dash when I pull the lever, but not when I push it to engage it. It’s really weird. I used a test light to verify and it was fine. Just not in the IC7.

Wow. I appreciate the thorough explanation of the diagram. I saw that same one when I was trying to figure it out on my own. Given all that information, how should I go about it? I was thinking about just grounding the other wire to the chassis to close the circuit.

Hey, guys, I’m hoping I can find answer here. I have already done some searching and asking around but still nothing. I fitted an IC7 dash in my R32 GTR, and I got everything displaying on the dash except my high beams. I get input voltage and the high beams displaying in the dash when I pull the lever, but not when I fully engage the high beams. I spliced into the Red/Blue Beam+ wire in the black center connector from the cluster, but there is also a black Beam wire I think I need to use as well. The high beams still work. It’s just a matter of getting it to display on the dash. Has anyone fully wired in their IC7 properly ? I would appreciate any guidance on this. IMG_8835.mov

Update: I tried all the studs I had and only one fit across the whole area. So most likely the stud batch I got was no good. I’ll have to wait for the new ones to arrive to be sure. IMG_8019.mov

I visually inspected the threads and they look intact and not so dirty, so I don’t understand why they wouldn’t thread in straight. How would a chaser cause any damage? It’s intended to clean up the threads right? Even if it was cross threaded. That shouldn’t be the case though because the studs that were removed were OEM. The intake side had no issue.

Hey everyone, I’m having a bit of a crisis and would like some advice. I am in the process of assembling a head I had gotten back after NAPREC did their work. I had the exhaust studs removed prior to sending it to the machine shop, but afterwards when I tried threading in new studs, they wouldn’t go in straight. They would thread in smoothly by hand with almost no effort, but it doesn’t go in straight (noticeably circular motion) and eventually stops about halfway in. I had a couple go in perfectly straight with no effort, but when I removed them to try it again, they no longer when in straight and had the same issue as the others. The studs I’m using are M8x1.25, which I read was the standard. I did some research and decided to buy a chaser kit and new studs IEE NZ just in case. Has anyone experienced this? How screwed am I? Do I just need to run a chaser or tap and try again? Prefer a chaser because I heard taps can destroy existing threads. Note: I also have a new set of intake studs that went straight in just fine that I bought from IEE NZ. I bought the exhaust studs from the U.S.

Yeah. The more I think about it, the more I want to go with replacing all of them. The only thing keep me from doing that is that some bolt seem to be seized in the cam caps. I have no idea how to pull those things out without possibly damaging the caps.

That’s good to know. It was human error. I over torqued the bolt. I barely felt the click in my 3/8 torque wrench and kept turning the bolt.

Hey, everyone, I had an unfortunate thing happen to me while changing out cams. One of the cam cap bolts snapped in the second-to-last cap of the exhaust cam. I really don’t want to spend a whole day taking everything apart and putting it back together for the fifth time. Is it possible to just removing the one cam cap and extract the broken bolt without taking everything else apart (everything involved with loosening belt tension and removing the other cam caps)? I just want to know if it’s possible to do without breaking my cam. Would it lessen the risk if I rotate the cam to where the lobes in that area are not being pushed on by the valves springs?

Disregard

I already did. It blinked 8 times. That’s the ABS motor actuator and relay circuit. That’s why I assume it displays code 8 because of the deleted ABS, so I don’t think it’s accurate.

Hey, everyone, Suddenly, after driving yesterday, my 4WD light came on. My torque gauge wasn’t moving. Nothing was out of the ordinary, except for this weird sound at the actuator attached to the transfer case when I turn the ignition on. And it only does it after a minute of turning the ignition off. So, if I were to turn the ignition on again within 10 seconds, it doesn’t make that sound. I will attach a video of it. The ETS ECU flashes code 8, but I assume it’s because my ABS was deleted a couple years ago. I checked my ATTESA reservoir and it still has fluid at the minimum line. For a little over a year, I noticed a small leak at the high pressure line that’s attached to the transfer case. It formed a drip. I tightened it about a month ago and it hasn’t dripped since. Could it be that the actuator at the transfer case needs to be bled of air? I already ordered Nissan Matic D ATF to do that. How likely is it for that actuator to go bad? Also, is it safe to run my R32 GTR without the 4WD fuse? This is car is my daily, so I still need it to go places. IMG_6681.mov

I have reached out by email for clarification, but they stopped responding the fourth email. I found this picture diagram on the trinity pressure switch and found it helpful. This is what I got so far: Black/white= 12v IGN AC feed Blue/red= Ground Red/white= ECU AC pin 9 Blue/white= Relay

This is what I managed to come up with, so far. Worst case scenario, I have to depin and move around some pins at the pressure switch. I know everything else is right. I’m think about splicing both the pressure switch ground and fan ground together. That shouldn’t be an issue right? Excuse the amateur wiring.

I got myself a multimeter. There was no continuity in either of the pins. I’m just gonna wing it and see what happens.

Yeah, there was not much information provided because the kit was intended to be installed by a professional. I don’t have that option in my area, so I’m on my own. The connector does have numbers on it. I labeled them appropriately based on the diagram I was given, but it didn’t make sense to me because of the colors of the wires that matched the numbers. I watched FPG’s install video on YouTube (didn’t cover wiring the kit) and noticed that their wires are terminated in a different order on the connector side, which is why I asked the question. I just want to be sure.

I have a follow-up question. Based on the picture I added of the wires, which ones would you say is which? Would you say the solid blue w/stripped wires are for the pressure switch 12v IGN/Pin9 wires and the solid red w/ white and solid black w/white are for the relay and ground? If it seems obvious to you, I’m sorry; I just want to be sure.

Alright. That’s good enough for me. I appreciate the help guys.

I just tried with a test light. Clamped to a good grounding point and start poking around in the connector. Nothing happened with the Aqua/White wire, and with the Green/Yellow wire, I heard a click around the relay box.

I should be able to determine with a test light as well, right? 12v IGN wire should light up the test light. I don’t have a multimeter on hand at the moment.

The two wires that ran to OEM drier pressure switch are Aqua/White and Green/Yellow. I’m not sure about the aqua one. I’ll attach a picture of the wires.