BourneToLive

Update: I tried all the studs I had and only one fit across the whole area. So most likely the stud batch I got was no good. I’ll have to wait for the new ones to arrive to be sure. IMG_8019.mov

I visually inspected the threads and they look intact and not so dirty, so I don’t understand why they wouldn’t thread in straight. How would a chaser cause any damage? It’s intended to clean up the threads right? Even if it was cross threaded. That shouldn’t be the case though because the studs that were removed were OEM. The intake side had no issue.

Hey everyone, I’m having a bit of a crisis and would like some advice. I am in the process of assembling a head I had gotten back after NAPREC did their work. I had the exhaust studs removed prior to sending it to the machine shop, but afterwards when I tried threading in new studs, they wouldn’t go in straight. They would thread in smoothly by hand with almost no effort, but it doesn’t go in straight (noticeably circular motion) and eventually stops about halfway in. I had a couple go in perfectly straight with no effort, but when I removed them to try it again, they no longer when in straight and had the same issue as the others. The studs I’m using are M8x1.25, which I read was the standard. I did some research and decided to buy a chaser kit and new studs IEE NZ just in case. Has anyone experienced this? How screwed am I? Do I just need to run a chaser or tap and try again? Prefer a chaser because I heard taps can destroy existing threads. Note: I also have a new set of intake studs that went straight in just fine that I bought from IEE NZ. I bought the exhaust studs from the U.S.

Yeah. The more I think about it, the more I want to go with replacing all of them. The only thing keep me from doing that is that some bolt seem to be seized in the cam caps. I have no idea how to pull those things out without possibly damaging the caps.

That’s good to know. It was human error. I over torqued the bolt. I barely felt the click in my 3/8 torque wrench and kept turning the bolt.

Hey, everyone, I had an unfortunate thing happen to me while changing out cams. One of the cam cap bolts snapped in the second-to-last cap of the exhaust cam. I really don’t want to spend a whole day taking everything apart and putting it back together for the fifth time. Is it possible to just removing the one cam cap and extract the broken bolt without taking everything else apart (everything involved with loosening belt tension and removing the other cam caps)? I just want to know if it’s possible to do without breaking my cam. Would it lessen the risk if I rotate the cam to where the lobes in that area are not being pushed on by the valves springs?

Disregard

I already did. It blinked 8 times. That’s the ABS motor actuator and relay circuit. That’s why I assume it displays code 8 because of the deleted ABS, so I don’t think it’s accurate.

Hey, everyone, Suddenly, after driving yesterday, my 4WD light came on. My torque gauge wasn’t moving. Nothing was out of the ordinary, except for this weird sound at the actuator attached to the transfer case when I turn the ignition on. And it only does it after a minute of turning the ignition off. So, if I were to turn the ignition on again within 10 seconds, it doesn’t make that sound. I will attach a video of it. The ETS ECU flashes code 8, but I assume it’s because my ABS was deleted a couple years ago. I checked my ATTESA reservoir and it still has fluid at the minimum line. For a little over a year, I noticed a small leak at the high pressure line that’s attached to the transfer case. It formed a drip. I tightened it about a month ago and it hasn’t dripped since. Could it be that the actuator at the transfer case needs to be bled of air? I already ordered Nissan Matic D ATF to do that. How likely is it for that actuator to go bad? Also, is it safe to run my R32 GTR without the 4WD fuse? This is car is my daily, so I still need it to go places. IMG_6681.mov

I have reached out by email for clarification, but they stopped responding the fourth email. I found this picture diagram on the trinity pressure switch and found it helpful. This is what I got so far: Black/white= 12v IGN AC feed Blue/red= Ground Red/white= ECU AC pin 9 Blue/white= Relay

This is what I managed to come up with, so far. Worst case scenario, I have to depin and move around some pins at the pressure switch. I know everything else is right. I’m think about splicing both the pressure switch ground and fan ground together. That shouldn’t be an issue right? Excuse the amateur wiring.

I got myself a multimeter. There was no continuity in either of the pins. I’m just gonna wing it and see what happens.

Yeah, there was not much information provided because the kit was intended to be installed by a professional. I don’t have that option in my area, so I’m on my own. The connector does have numbers on it. I labeled them appropriately based on the diagram I was given, but it didn’t make sense to me because of the colors of the wires that matched the numbers. I watched FPG’s install video on YouTube (didn’t cover wiring the kit) and noticed that their wires are terminated in a different order on the connector side, which is why I asked the question. I just want to be sure.

I have a follow-up question. Based on the picture I added of the wires, which ones would you say is which? Would you say the solid blue w/stripped wires are for the pressure switch 12v IGN/Pin9 wires and the solid red w/ white and solid black w/white are for the relay and ground? If it seems obvious to you, I’m sorry; I just want to be sure.

Alright. That’s good enough for me. I appreciate the help guys.

I just tried with a test light. Clamped to a good grounding point and start poking around in the connector. Nothing happened with the Aqua/White wire, and with the Green/Yellow wire, I heard a click around the relay box.

I should be able to determine with a test light as well, right? 12v IGN wire should light up the test light. I don’t have a multimeter on hand at the moment.

The two wires that ran to OEM drier pressure switch are Aqua/White and Green/Yellow. I’m not sure about the aqua one. I’ll attach a picture of the wires.

Hello, I recently purchased an AC kit from Frenchy’s Performance Garage (FPG) that I am trying to wire up. Somebody at FPG was kind enough to send me a diagram of what it’s supposed to look like. I will attach it. Everything is pretty easy to understand, except for where I’m supposed to find the ECU pin 9 feed. I figured, from the diagram, that the wire was connected to the OEM drier pressure switch (which I removed) and that I could get a feed from there, but there are two wires and I am not entirely sure anymore. Pin 9 on the ECU is the AC Relay. This is a new kit released by FPG intended to be installed by professionals, but that’s not an option for me.

That fuse controls all that? I’ll try unplugging the clock and putting the fuse back in to see if the issue persists.

Alright. I was able to do a simple test using my test light and found that there’s a short in the interior clock harness. I removed the negative cable from the battery terminal and clamped one end of the test light to it and the other to the negative terminal and my test light lit up, just barely. I started unplugging fuses until I found the one that put out the test light and it turned out to be my interior clock. After removing the fuse that powered it (fuse 23- BAT electrical part fuse in the bottom row), my original ac unit started working again without blowing the AC fuse (fuse 20). I’m contemplating also unplugging the clock so it gets no power at all.

I appreciate the advice and what route I should take to find the issue. This will take me some time to do, so an update will come a little late. I’m debating whether I should just get an entirely new harness or not, or if the issue could be in the mode door actuator (blower motor). I’ll provide an update as soon as I have one.

The issue I’m having is that something is burning my circuit boards. The first picture is of my original climate control unit, which was blowing my fuse. And the next pictures are of the second climate control unit I bought recently, which didn’t blow any fuses.

Thanks for clarifying. My car was off when I removed all fuses and relay and used my test light. Should the AC have constant power even when the car is off? I’m not familiar with electronics. I attached a pic of the climate control unit diagram. I suspect the green cable I tested was pin 10.

Hey, I am in the process of diagnosing my air conditioning issue my car. I’ve made another post before about trying to find out why a specific AC fuse was blowing, that was unrelated to the compressor, and saw that I had a scorch mark on the circuit board inside the climate control unit. I bought a new one from an auction and it worked! But the next day, while I was driving and the AC was off, a hole had burnt through the board. Of course, I suspected something along the lines of a short to signal wire or to ground because when I removed all fuses and relays and started poking around the connectors with test light, one wire lit up (video below). Whatever it was, it was sending power down the wrong path or too much power. Anyway, to the point of this post, I brought it to a local mechanic to inspect the wires and he said other than 13v reading in a 12v system, nothing seemed out of the ordinary. He said the problem could be because of the type climate control control unit I bought from the auction and if it was from an early model R32 or a late model R32. He claims that it has to be close to the original as possible. I have a late model R32 GTR from 08/1994. Am I able to use any climate control unit from any other 89-94 R32 GTR or is it specific to the exact year? I will attach pictures of my climate control part number and the one from the auction. The top two rows are only one digit off. My original one is on the top. I read a post of someone using an R33 climate control unit in an R32 and it worked. FullSizeRender.MOV