silviaz

Hey all, I'm working on a project car and I believe I made some mistakes. I'm looking to remove the clear coat from my car on most panels (except for panels where the paint has blistered, I will sand this), but wanted to know if these steps are correct? 1) Get a red scuff pad (abrasive one) instead of sand paper to remove the shine from the surface 2) get 400 grit sand paper and go over the entire car with a random orbital sander so the surface is smooth and the primer can grab onto something 3) On the blistered paint, go over it with around 120 grit sand paper, go to 240 to smooth out the scratches, then finish on 400 grit. Anything to add in here or any feedback?

Yep exactly.

Yep. Took me a while to visualise it. I thought I had to undo everything. If I can't reach it with the wheels on (tight spaces) I'll jack up by the rotor Thanks for the help!

I'm sick of doing the same job a million times lol

@GTSBoy @MBS206 I just did some research and watched some videos. I think I know what you mean now. If I can't reach the bolt when the wheels are on, Is it enough if I take off the wheel and jack it up by the lower control arm to add some load instead?

Possibly why my bushing was creaking again because the wrong preload was applied?

If I'm using a 4 post hoist, won't I need blocks on all 4 wheels so it applies pressure evenly? I'm having a hard time visualising this

Ah ok I see. I still don't see how I am going to tighten the j arm bolt for example when the gap between the wheel and fender is thin.

How'd I do this if it's on a hoist or if it's on the ground with the wheel in the way? Don't see how it's possible. Unless I misunderstood what you meant. I tightened all my bolts with both wheels off the ground. Including the strut bolts, upper control arm, j arm, lower bolt on strut, sway bar. There was a lot of f**king around lining up the j arm with the bolts because I had to hold the strut because it kept spinning. Had to do stuff you normally shouldn't have to do.

Bit confused as what the answer to my question is? I guess with the front the only thing they can adjust is the tie rods?

Maybe but doubt it, when I jacked it up it was creaking in the j arm again. The inners are all good, I inspected them. Remember that also it did fix the problem but temporarily.

When going to a suspension shop should I send them the default nissan settings or just let them do their own thing? I ask this because I have aftermarket rear camber arms and my car is lowered a bit (front end is basically stock after I change to those nismo bushes)

Ok sounds good, thanks for your help. Hopefully if I end up changing it to the nismo bushes I don't get that veering issue. I don't think there's a point in lubing up these bushes again. Weird that it it makes just as much noise with all the grease inside it versus without grease prior to removal. Bizarre.

To clarify, I meant nismo bushes, not control arms (don't even think that's a thing for my car). So the suspension specialist said, if I buy those nismo bushes which are perfectly centered it will cause my car to veer in one direction. Whereas he said the current offset bushes that I have were put in on purpose to fix that issue. This will be my third wheel alignment if I put these bushes in lol. My chassis is straight, all my rails are clean.

Stock arms.

Yep r34. The bushings don't look all that old. I was going to get the nismo ones but a suspension specialist told me my car would veer left, and I'd need to put in adjustable camber arms to stop it + wheel alignment because the nismo ones are centered. He recommended that I keep my existing ones because they are camber adjusted. What are your thoughts?

J arm bushing. Surface itself seemed fine. Are you referring to the metal roller or the j arm inner surface? If so, i degreased that inner surface it seemed fine.

I recently lubed up a dry poly bush that I have, and it squeaked maybe 10km (not 10,000km) after install. I imagine this isn't supposed to happen with poly bushes or any. Piece of shit stuff lol. Used silicon grease from supercheap auto and I definitely put enough in because as I pressed in the bushing, thr grease came out. Anyone else have this issue? I'm considering changing to rubber

I think the good thing with the rx7 is that it doesn't need any mods to look good, and minimal mods like wheels and lowering makes a ton of difference.

Does anyone know for this, before removing the original film on the screen, should I be able just put the new film over it before removing the unit to test to see if the film I bought is correct? A bit of a stupid question but I tried it and it didn't work so I don't know if the film is incorrect or if the original film needs to be removed to see the effect.

Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.

No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.

Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.

I noticed, a lot of these interior panels like the a/c unit and the head unit surround, don't necessarily need to be painted as when you remove the sticky shit it looks decent lol

Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online.