silviaz

That would be interested if it's the case as seems like it would make the job a lot messier but subaru sells OEM gaskets so seems it might of had it.

Yep I ended up buying a new gasket and no leaks since.

I finally figured this out. That green part, can actually be pushed out. Mine was on the wrong angle because I messed around with it. So what needs to be done is the clockspring to be removed (the loom can't be removed so you need to pull the cable towards you to remove it off the shaft then let it rest on something so it's not dangling) Then you just make sure that the 3 green dots form a triangle and that the 3 holes on the steering wheel inserts into the 3 holes on the green part (you need to push out the green part to do this otherwise you'll keep having the issue with the indicators not cancelling)

Sheesh, isn't that the price of a full engine rebuild almost?

I'm an idiot, turns out there was a gasket it was just stuck on the block lol.

Nvm ignore this I read it wrong

Will do, cheers.

I just noticed something odd. I went to flush the coolant out of my car and noticed after removing the thermostat to see if additional coolant would come out that there was no gasket, only some gooey rtv sorta stuff but it was rather thin. No rubber surrounding the lip of the thermostat. Is this normal? It's starting to leak also after putting it back lol. Not sure if I should get a rubber gasket considering most cars have this (it's for a subaru as well), or just get some permatex rtv stuff? My car previously didn't leak at the thermostat.

I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.

@Murray_Calavera I was using the scuff pad today and noticed, it didn't take the shine off as easy as I would have thought (Unless I go in a circular motion lol) and will take ages to do the whole car by hand. Would a random orbital sander with a scuff pad attached be the best way to approach it? One thing I wanted to check when you said to check the areas that I sanded, does that mean if I sanded one area a bit too much (not to bare metal but more than another part of the panel) to make it even I need to put body filler even if there is no damage there?

Ah ok, I see. Thanks!

Ok will do, thanks heaps for the tips there. I'm currently using one of those scuff pads for the entire body where I am removing the shine/ensuring the paint/prime can grip onto something.

Yes so in order to paint a panel I need to dull out the existing clear coat as part of panel prep, from what I understand. Ok I'll go higher on the grit mayne 240-300? Then finish on 400 before I do the primer? when you say make sure the car is flat, I was unable to find a block guide coat online. Are you referring to those tubs (image attached) and you use that to see where the imperfections are?

Ah ok, thanks for that.

Don't think that can fit in physically. Are you referring to this? If it happens again, I'm going to get the nismo ones.

@GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different. It's fixed (for now).

Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!

Hey all, I'm working on a project car and I believe I made some mistakes. I'm looking to remove the clear coat from my car on most panels (except for panels where the paint has blistered, I will sand this), but wanted to know if these steps are correct? 1) Get a red scuff pad (abrasive one) instead of sand paper to remove the shine from the surface 2) get 400 grit sand paper and go over the entire car with a random orbital sander so the surface is smooth and the primer can grab onto something 3) On the blistered paint, go over it with around 120 grit sand paper, go to 240 to smooth out the scratches, then finish on 400 grit. Anything to add in here or any feedback?

Yep exactly.

Yep. Took me a while to visualise it. I thought I had to undo everything. If I can't reach it with the wheels on (tight spaces) I'll jack up by the rotor Thanks for the help!

I'm sick of doing the same job a million times lol

@GTSBoy @MBS206 I just did some research and watched some videos. I think I know what you mean now. If I can't reach the bolt when the wheels are on, Is it enough if I take off the wheel and jack it up by the lower control arm to add some load instead?

Possibly why my bushing was creaking again because the wrong preload was applied?

If I'm using a 4 post hoist, won't I need blocks on all 4 wheels so it applies pressure evenly? I'm having a hard time visualising this

Ah ok I see. I still don't see how I am going to tighten the j arm bolt for example when the gap between the wheel and fender is thin.