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silviaz

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Everything posted by silviaz

  1. silviaz
    I'm keen for this content to 😂
  2. silviaz
    Ah yep. I asked a auto electrician about getting a cheap rebuilt alternator vs a new one. He also said he used to it back in the day but it ended up costing similar to what a new one would and recommended getting a new one,.
  3. silviaz
    Ah, to clarify if the car has already been tuned and has been modified and you want to go from a oem cat to a 100 cell or decat or vice versa.Are you saying that the car doesn't need to be tuned after a cat change if it's already been tuned?
  4. silviaz
    Is rebuilding it even a thing? Where would the shop find parts for it? I looked at some off these local online stores for my r34 and suprisingly they had brand new aftetmarket ones for $600-800 I think. I guess r32 might be a bit tougher.
  5. silviaz
    Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
  6. silviaz
    Not sure if this helps but I had a similar issue where one of the doors wouldn't lock unless I pressed the lock key twice. Turns out the door actuators were f**ked. In the Nissan service book it says to lube it every now and again, I guess put a bit a bit of wd-40. I replaced mine and haven't had a problem since.
  7. silviaz
    When you say basic rebuild, you mean an oem rebuild?
  8. silviaz
    Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
  9. silviaz
    If I get a larger battery and it hangs off the edge of the frame rail, would this be an issue? With FMIC a lot of people downgrade their battery size due to less room for shit, was wondering if it would affect anything but it would still be tight via the clamp.
  10. silviaz
    Ah right that makes sense.
  11. silviaz
    I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf
  12. silviaz
    Not sure what you mean haha. That one doesn't fit mine but when I get sick of my one I'll get a standard one. I just gotta find a way to make it fit cause some shit is in the way.
  13. silviaz
    Small update took it to an auto electrician and said all was normal, the power draw was normal and it was a bit of everything but nothing to concern with. Apparently my battery is ok, but because it's a smaller size battery instead of the oem size one, it might cause me issues. Looks like if there is a solution here I might need to upgrade to a bigger battery.
  14. silviaz
    Ah ok interesting to know.
  15. silviaz
    Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
  16. silviaz
    How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
  17. silviaz
    Yeah was thinking that. I've had the car go lower idle possibly around 650rpm every once in a long time after pouring fuel and would sound quite rough like a misfire, almost like it's shit fuel or something but who knows.
  18. silviaz
    I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well) Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.
  19. silviaz
    Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
  20. silviaz
    Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be. If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
  21. silviaz
    It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
  22. silviaz
    Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v? SAU.avi
  23. silviaz
    One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
  24. silviaz
    Interesting. My tuner said after the tune that my fuel economy would be better but it is the exact same from what I could tell even though my car was running rich before lol. How much do km do you reckon you get on a full tank of petrol on your commute?
  25. silviaz
    I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).
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