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Everything posted by silviaz
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One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
silviaz replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
Turns out I had more blown bulbs. All of my front bulbs blew except for the high beam and indicators lol. Had a weird thing happen today where one wasn't working again, pulled it out and seems all good now. Fingers crossed I don't have to chase down electrical issues lol. -
Welcome, and that's a nice colour!
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One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
silviaz replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
Thanks man, I appreciate that. I'll keep it in mind going forward, important to know. -
One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
silviaz replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to. -
One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
silviaz replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
Figured it out. Very suprisingly, both headlight bulbs went out and the rear one went out as well. Which is weird because the rear one didn't look broken. I decided to swap bulbs jsut incase and it was infact broken lol -
One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing
silviaz replied to kevboost7's topic in General Maintenance
I had issues with my car today after removing the rear bumper. The headlights aren't working when turning the stalk but high beams are working and the rear tail light where the reverse camera is wired up won't turn on when the stalk is activated, but the reverse camera, tail light indicator and brake light all seem to work. I checked the fuses they aren't blown. I think the reverse camera could have possibly gotten pinched but shouldn't be as there is a decent amount of room. I did use the lights and loom for the license plate from the new bumper but also tested the old one in case but made no difference. This isn't for a skyline also. Any ideas what it could be? It was working when I drove I'm pretty sure, then on my return home I noticed my headlights weren't working. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Looks like you were right on the T pattern! I did that and it's finally fixed! Thanks a bunch. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better. I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler. When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat. Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
No, so what happened is. I put a bunch of filler then I sanded it all down, I removed all the filler (unintentionally), then I put the epoxy primer on because that section of the panel is bare metal. The car is parked outside so I needed to protect it in the meantime incase it rains. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Yeah got a photo but not the moet visible. It wasn't deep enough to warrant me pulling it out. What sort of panel beating did you mean, just pulling out the dent? The block doesn't flex but if I push enough with my finger it will indent the foam but will return to flat after a few minutes but as long as I don't do that it remains flat. Temporary as in just to protect from rust until I work on it again. I will remove it before putting filler again. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I see what you mean on that last paragraph and makes sense. I am leaning towards because I made the repair/filler area large that I didn't use a long enough block. Will minimise the area and let you's know how I go. This is random but I noticed when I put epoxy primer it felt flat but that's just temporary. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Tried to repair with filler only. The block is a foam block but quite hard and I put a velcro on it for sandpaper, the hook and loop system. It's not one of those super soft ones that just follow the panel. Similar to a dura block. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always. -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy. In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone? -
Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed. -
Ended up just being a loose exhaust bolt luckily.
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Yeah I made that post way too early, sorry I must have assumed it was bad because it's a 20+ year old thrashed shitbox lol. It was just a loose exhaust bolt.
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Thanks for that! I did a quick Google search looked up some of hydaulic stores and didn't see it listed on the website, I'll give them a ring. Also found out later that I can buy 2 oem bleeder bolts for 10 bux and come with the washer which I might do so I don't waste the money it costs in petrol to find 2 washers (already did that lol). The old copper washes look in good nick, I drove it after taking it off and putting it back on and didn't see any Part number here for reference if anyone needs: 14053-42L0A
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What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
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Now that worries me because mine is on 24/7 and bonnet closed for my security system lol. I'll just hope for the best.
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Yup. When I bought my car initially, the battery was flat for a long time and took over a week of constantly driving to FINALLY get the light to go green on the battery. Then if I didn't drive for a few days it would go red (as in needs a recharge), it just got weak as it sat for too long. Ended up destroying part of my security system and would set off my alarm randomly lol. Now I just use a trickle charger, great stuff and repairs your battery to.
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Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....
silviaz replied to Boostn247's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I rewatched some video tutorials of other people doing it, and compared it to mine, I think I might be mixing it faster than the other guys. @GTSBoy when you said aggressively I guess this falls under that. The level of hardener seems consistent, I'll experiment with it more and report back.