silviaz

No, so what happened is. I put a bunch of filler then I sanded it all down, I removed all the filler (unintentionally), then I put the epoxy primer on because that section of the panel is bare metal. The car is parked outside so I needed to protect it in the meantime incase it rains.

Yeah got a photo but not the moet visible. It wasn't deep enough to warrant me pulling it out. What sort of panel beating did you mean, just pulling out the dent? The block doesn't flex but if I push enough with my finger it will indent the foam but will return to flat after a few minutes but as long as I don't do that it remains flat. Temporary as in just to protect from rust until I work on it again. I will remove it before putting filler again.

I see what you mean on that last paragraph and makes sense. I am leaning towards because I made the repair/filler area large that I didn't use a long enough block. Will minimise the area and let you's know how I go. This is random but I noticed when I put epoxy primer it felt flat but that's just temporary.

Tried to repair with filler only. The block is a foam block but quite hard and I put a velcro on it for sandpaper, the hook and loop system. It's not one of those super soft ones that just follow the panel. Similar to a dura block.

I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.

So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy. In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?

I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.

Ended up just being a loose exhaust bolt luckily.

Yeah I made that post way too early, sorry I must have assumed it was bad because it's a 20+ year old thrashed shitbox lol. It was just a loose exhaust bolt.

Thanks for that! I did a quick Google search looked up some of hydaulic stores and didn't see it listed on the website, I'll give them a ring. Also found out later that I can buy 2 oem bleeder bolts for 10 bux and come with the washer which I might do so I don't waste the money it costs in petrol to find 2 washers (already did that lol). The old copper washes look in good nick, I drove it after taking it off and putting it back on and didn't see any Part number here for reference if anyone needs: 14053-42L0A

What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.

Now that worries me because mine is on 24/7 and bonnet closed for my security system lol. I'll just hope for the best.

I see lol.

Why not just get a trickle charger?

Yup. When I bought my car initially, the battery was flat for a long time and took over a week of constantly driving to FINALLY get the light to go green on the battery. Then if I didn't drive for a few days it would go red (as in needs a recharge), it just got weak as it sat for too long. Ended up destroying part of my security system and would set off my alarm randomly lol. Now I just use a trickle charger, great stuff and repairs your battery to.

I rewatched some video tutorials of other people doing it, and compared it to mine, I think I might be mixing it faster than the other guys. @GTSBoy when you said aggressively I guess this falls under that. The level of hardener seems consistent, I'll experiment with it more and report back.

Ah ok. I seem to be mixing it like everyone else does so not sure what's happening. Will experiment with it more.

Hey Murray, hope all is good. I took your advice and put the filler first then the putty. Seems like a much better result but i noticed there are still pinholes. I even had pin holes when i initially put the putty on the body filler. Do you think it has something to do with my spreader being f*cked? I attached some images. This is the intially body filler i sanded. No putty yet Applying putty. Final result after using wax and grease remover can see the pin holes. I just noticed as i look at the putty application it looks wavy not sure if it's supposed to be like that or because of the spreader.

So my rb is finally having more problems. 2 issues here but I'm here to just to mainly discuss the rattle noise. The other day when I turned on the car and when I take off or go in reverse, there is a temporary rattle noise but when I cruise, boost, idle it's completely fine no rattle whatsoever. I've also done all the servicing, all the health checks you can think of and it all passes with flying colours. Also the rattle doesn't increase with rpm, it's only at a very certain rpm (slightly above 1,100rpm). My other car also has the same issue every once in a while. Changed the oil recently, no difference. Even took my oil to a lab and everything was quite good surprisingly. Timing belt changed a while ago to. Had the car on the hoist and can't see anything obvious. Tightened a couple of nuts on the exhaust manifold a couple of months ago. 2 different clips uploaded. One of them was supposed to another issue but I'll save that for another time. Thought I'd see if anyone had this same noise before, it's a bit hard to diagnose while it's intermittent. If I'm not mistaken, I think I had this a while back but can't remember exactly. I was thinking if it's doable I'll get someone to hold the throttle cable at 1,100rpm and hopefully it replicates the sound. rb25det rattle only.mp4 rb25det slow start + rattle.mp4

Yep will do. Thanks! I'm keen to do a next update.

I put another 2 layers of putty and still getting pinholes. Think i might either try the filler first then putty or just leave the little specs of guidecoat as is and get primer to fill it in. I think i misread understood what you said above when you said my glazing putty wasnt enough for the size of the area. I thought you meant 1 coat and i needed to. But i think what you meant was that I needed filler first? I also went a bit too far out the repair area as my spreader is a bit large.

You do sorta. In my instance they were little specs and I didn't even think they'd be pin holes but it all makes sense now. Huge learnings there!

Ah ok that makes sense and it's where i think i went wrong because before when i put filler then putty, i didn't have this issue and now i do because i only put 1 coat of putty. Thanks for that heaps man, it's a good way to put it! With my putty I'm using the dolphin glaze which i just saw it says finishing putty lol. I didnt put filler cause it was a shallow area but i see what you're saying. Also I'm an idiot, i just realised that while i put new putty there are pinholes! I probably saw it before and ignored it for whatever reason. I think because i thought putty is used to fill pin holes that itself wont make pinholes but that's incorrect of course. I feel silly now haha. ok I think I know what to do next. Thanks man!

Oh i think i made some progress! Just fixed another simpler dent and the guidecoat is gone even when the area is wet! The filler shape now resembles that of the dent if that makes sense so it's flat. The photos are before during and after The only issue, i think i can feel a low spot lol.

What the. I thought putty removes pinholes from body filler. I didnt use any filler there i don't think only glazing putty. I also got the example ready. As you can see? Guidecoat not visible and only visible after wetting the area. They arent the regular pinholes i had before. Can primer fill this in? Edit: i had to really put my eye to the panel and can see the holes sort of. Maybe i need to put 2 coats of putty instead of 1 after the first coat dries?