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silviaz

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Everything posted by silviaz

  1. I'd love to do a fix up but a tuner I went to says he doesn't do that, and it's easier just to do it from scratch because if they fix one parameter it could negatively impact another. I was trying to avoid spending $1k+, is this common with tuners?
  2. I just realised my build had the 7s so will be putting those. Cheers man
  3. I went to go search it up on Repco and autobarn and shows it's not compatible for my car, that's odd. Faulty search function?
  4. I thought r34 gtt's run stock boost 5-7 psi?
  5. Nope, I had some ones called "road claw" on a car with no traction control (luckily I never drove it in the rain) because I don't think that would have ended well lol. Tyres I think is one of those things to not cheap out on. I've heard stories of people using cheap Chinese tyres and almost totalling their car, just not worth the risk.
  6. The BCPR6ES come gapped at 0.9mm, and I have spitfires and is lightly modified. I assume there's no need to modify that gap as per what you wrote above? Mine's also maxes out at 10 psi.
  7. Ah ok cheers. Oh yeah I forgot that apprently if you go too high on the sand paper number that if the primer is too smooth, the paint won't stick to it. From memory, panel beaters go up to 400 only on the last sand.
  8. That makes sense, weird, I've taken my head unit out several times and have never scratched that part.
  9. Alright I'll give it a go. Ideally I want a textured look, but I'll spray one panel and see how it looks, if it looks like shit, I'll look into topcoat. When you say sand after the primer, do you think 800 grit would be good enough as it will sand down any imperfections fast enough without scratching the primer?
  10. High fill primer to fill in deep scratches? Won't I need a f**k ton of primer for that as high filler is meant for once the filler has already been put in?
  11. Yep same here lol. Yeah I thought if I sand it, it will be a smooth texture unfortunately, I guess I'll have to bit that bullet or risk the paint turning out shit from not painting it. How the hell does that pillar get scratched up anyway? I never scratch up my cars interior like that.
  12. Last question, these panels seem to get quite scuffed up with deep scratches. To fill in the scratches would anyone recommend using body filler and then sand over it?
  13. Anyone do this recently? I put a bit of methylated spirits on a paper towel and my head unit surround discoloured lol, went from black to yellow. And I noticed (especially on my ashtray as it was filthy) the material on the outside, took so many paper towels to get rid of the crap on there (some black stuff, not sure what it is), does anyone know why the hell these plastics are so damn sticky, is it just shit paint as others have mentioned? With the sanding what grit to use and what is the purpose of sanding, is it simply just for the paint to stick better? I was going to go with a 800-1000 grit sand paper. Also how to know if it's sanded enough? Some people sanded theirs and the paint still cracked.
  14. That's dope, looks very oem.
  15. To confirm that's powerplus tungsten? Looks great!
  16. Yeah, that's a pain lol. I'm gonna be going with the Nismo ones that morboost mentioned.
  17. Oh wow, you're a absolute legend then, cheers for that! Can't believe it was just there. I literally looked everywhere even called Justjap and said they didn't have it lol, but guess it makes sense as it's a bit hidden on the website.
  18. Ah my mistake, It's for an r34 gtt I'm looking tot get the bushings for.
  19. Yeah looking for stock rubber type ones because from my understanding the polyurethane are more prone to breaking and will make my ride stiffer. Not trying to be dense, seems you're looking into it quite long term, I'm not looking that far out.
  20. I just had a look at the Nismo one, is that actually for inner upper bushings? For the "- Nissan R34 Skyline Hicas 4WS (Rear Upper Hubs x 4, Camber Arms x 2 & Traction Arms x 2 = 8pce)" it says camber arms x2, but my car is a 2ws, I assume the 4ws is gtr?
  21. Waste of money, I don't want to spend $500 if all I need to do is replace the bushings. It's unnecessary. In my case if they are worn, they have worn out before the rest of the car?
  22. Not for upper inner control arm bushings, not listed anywhere except for superpro polyurthene but that's pretty much the only listing I found and some website I think in Siberia. Nismo doesn't have them either. I checked, I don't think there is even a nissan part number for it because the diagram only shows the control arm, the bolts but not the bushings.
  23. Is this still the case?
  24. It's impossible to find the bushings on their own, at least rubber ones. Where can I find these? I've scoured the entire internet and only option seems to be to buy the entire arm, which I'd rather not. But I can find every other bushing for my car which makes no sense lol. I'm ideally trying to replace the bushings on my stock upper control arm / camber arm.
  25. That's the funny thing. There are no tears whatsoever on the outer boot, highly doubt I tore something. I pulled it out and put it back, no way it could have caught onto something. I was considering opening it up and adding new grease or at least to see how much grease is in there. I keep getting this knocking sound as I break over a bumpy road, but mechanic couldn't see it. The shaft it self seems pretty tight, tie rod has been changed as well. Lost as to what it could be. Probably is the axle, just needs a whole replacement.
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