silviaz

I change the oil and filter every 5000km. Or you referring to something within the transmission

I checked my atf fluid for my ej20 automatic transmission it seems fine though looks orangish on the paper more yellowish on the dipstick if i remember correctly. No idea the last time it was serviced. I also had a side question: 1) I notice when i put my car in drive and if i put my foot on the gas straight away it rough shifts, hard to explain but it's like the car hasn't put it self into first gear yet and I'm rushing it into first gear. 2)When I shift gears it shifts fine no problem I just might be imagining things but it seems I feel like when it does shift that the car bumps backwards like im getting pushed back if that makes any sense. These 2 questions the car has always been like that since I bought it, either it's normal or I've been careful not to make it worse if it is a problem lol.

I can't tell when you're serious or joking sometimes lol. You must have a dry sense of humour only thing I can think of haha.

can't afford to lol. my only daily driver so i gotta take care of it like a baby, i aint buying another car. though i have been flooring it a few times recently i gotta make sure i dont build that habit haha.

Congrats man! f**king stunning car.

Thanks for the indepth info i appreciate it. hopefully i can push it until 200 without breaking it lol.

Oh great! So I got until 200km or at least hopefully lol.

The timing gun method i was referring to this video this guy uses it

I ended up just quickly cranking my car a few times and saw the writing and marks they don't look too bad except the yellow line which i guess used to be a white line? is faded. what do you think?

nah its auto/

Ah ok, i was gonna risk the belt until 170km, but if it breaks ill be regretting it haha. ill do what you said turn over the engine and see if marks are there. surely i can't screw that up lol. just turn the crankshaft bolt check, then turn on thecar.

Are you 100% sure? because ive heard of pulleys locking up and they come with the timing belt kit, so wouldn't it make sense to use it?

I'd change all the pulleys and the water pump aswell while im at it. but apprently subarus are more complicated than a normal 4 cylinder inline engine? Messing with the timing scares me lol.

Subaru, sorry i was vague

its my car. if i rotate the engine over (the crankshaft pulley i assume) when i turn on the car it doesnt matter what position the crank shaft is in yea? So i'll turn it over and if i dont see any marks (the writing) then its probably old? Car runs great always had, never had any big issues, only minor stuff like new spark plugs and coil pack 1 wire was bad.

I went to the mechanic to get my timing belt checked out but he told me he would need to remove all of the coves, I asked if he could use a timing gun (I seen someone youtube videos on it to give tell if you if it needs to be changed) its for a boxer engine also. He said the cover needs to be removed, is this true? Also can you judge by this picture on the condition of the belt? Car only has 150km not sure if its genuine and not sure if the belt was done at 100k. I'd assume it was because it would have broke by now? I bought the car at 113km.

Wanted to ask you something randomly because something clicked for me the other day. I didn't realise how valves work and you said that you can't bend a valve if the camshaft is on the bench (i couldn't visualise spinning the crankshaft without the camshaft without hitting valves. but i think i realised if the camshafts are removed the valves are closed? You don't even need to put it to tdc, is this correct? I imagine it makes sense because valves get pushed down and then released as the camshaft lobe spins around and hits it.) So if i hypothetically wanted to replace my valve stem seals I could just set the motor to regular tdc (for aligning the timing chain later on) and then remove the camshafts then continue to feed rope down into the holes of each spark park hole and fix each valve stem. Is any part of my sentence incorrect?

Yeah should be fine now, have been driving it for a few days drives great. i also found a vacumm leak! a hose was broken in half and i driving like that the whole time and it was fine lol. unless i accidently snapped it but doubt it cause it was pretty strong. though can't remember what my idle rpm used to be but its 500 now. i think its right.

sorry guys no idea why i forgot to mention that the most important part lol.

hey sorry if i fustrated you but ended up fixing it lol. the throttle position sensor was behind this metal thing but now put infront and runs like a dream.

I changed the pcv still the same and the power button on the dash keeps flashing and engine check light is on. hope i didnt fry the ecu, i didn't disconnect the battery when i done the work

ok the valve does rattle even though looks filthy as. do u think maybe cause the vacum line i replaced is slightly larger inside in the tube?

sorry it was the throttle position sensor not the afm.

I cleaned the pcv valve was the only other thing? not sure if its worth mentioning but i did get some degreaser and a screw driver to clean the crud inside.

So I made a mistake I wanted to clean my airflow meter on my car and now when i put it back it revs up to 4000rpm when i start it and when the key is on the on position there is a buzzing sound even at one point on the dashboard a light was flashing but thats now stopped. i also changed a vacumm hose that was already split in half (surprisingly my car was driving fine the whole time with it lol). maybe because the position of the AFM has changed its causing this? the vacuum hose i used is also a tiny bit larger that the OEM one, but i used cable ties to secure it. dont know what to do now.