silviaz

The last picture that you see where the timing chain Is sitting is, is quite tight which I assume is normal but also realized when went to tighten sp rocket that it moved because the yellow mark doesn't line up with the circle. I also saw there are darker links on the chain from what Ive heard, they were supposed to line up with the circles?

I am just about to reassemble everything, this is the last thing I need to put on besides the valve cover and just connect a couple of pipes (they are no problem) Here is what I've done so far * Torqued everything to spec such as sprocket bolts, and camshaft bolts *put in correct angle sensor, it is in perfectly got some photos as well to show bolts are lined up and the marks on the top are lining up * timing chain is correctly slotted (wasn't previously, but the entire thing should be fine) I can't figure it out, it just won't go in. Here are some photos. I urgently need help. (the 2nd photo is the problem)

cause no one responds lol

Yeah that's true but what is the purpose on the guide here? I can only think so it doesnt go upwards for some reason.

Looks great, but curious what makes you think it's worth 28k lol? Hard to believe sometimes that car that's that old has that many km's only. (not trying to be rude or anything, just curious cause I see heaps of these sort of cars that go for in my opinion, sky-high prices).

Look at videos on youtube the timing chain sits straight across the top with no 'U' shape in the middle between the 2 camshafts. but mine seems to have some play. (Keep in mind when i opened the engine there was no upper chain timing guide, apparently i need it but im not sure. Do I need it? is it a must?) 20191123_151122[1].mp4 20191123_151122[1].mp4

Yeah exactly. Hey can I quickly ask you sorry for the million questions but something super important. when i remove the valve cover there was no upper chain timing guide, had no guide at all is this fine and can I drive without it?

I ended up figuring it out, had to remove some stuff and my final question (hopefully) I need to put on the new lifter and my question is can I slightly lift the camshaft in order to put the new rocker arm or does it need to go off completely to even the pressure off?

Hi I put back the intake and have no idea where this goes if you could please point me in the right direction.

thats the one thanks all.

Doing some more research looks like its a fuel injector rubber real?

So I lost this plastic part on my intake manifold when removing it, and I just can't find it. It doesn't seem it's inbetween the engine or under the car and need to order another one. But cannot find it anywhere nor what it's called.

Thanks. I noticed my rocker arm has a certain number. Do I need to find that replacement or I can buy any rocker arm? Are they all the same size?

Hi so on my silvia s15 I noticed the rocker arm snapped on cylinder 2 which had 125 PSI, others had 135-138, 145, and 145, and weird thing is I didn't notice this when taking the valve cover off. Only when I tried to put it back on and noticed a piece stuck in the right top corner (no idea how it got there) and also I noticed my timing belt has no guide is this ok? Here is picture of broken rocker arm, and surprisingly the head isn't damaged. What do you think?

Yeah definitely haha. Thanks. Rebuild is my option for now, I'm just HOPING the head isn't cracked. the camshafts look good currently, though one part of it is rough like almost a tiny bit chipped off but don't think it affects anything. I'm hoping if I can only replace piston rings, replace head gasket, clean the head get it reconditioned, and there was something I can't remember. But need to fix that sound while I'm at it, so will check the lifters. Also hoping its not rod knock. If I want to try and fix the knocking sound is it better that I do it before the rebuild? Because I get the feeling I might have to take off the head multiple times to try find the issue? Or the head has nothing to do with it? I don't want to keep ruining head gaskets.

I get the feeling even if I rebuild the engine the sound will still occur. Most likely lifters or rod knock??

No, it's when engine is cold and warm. I didn't drive the car because too risky, most likely will break down. What do you think of generic rebuild kits? I found this on ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENGINE-REBUILD-KIT-NISSAN-SILVIA-S13-S14-S15-2-0L-SR20-SR20DE-SR20DET-91-2002/122935162727?hash=item1c9f81b767:g:0ckAAOSwRTVaa26Q But worried, if I go cheap like this it will just hurt me a couple months down the line. Labour isn't the issue, I can remove the engine for free and remove the head. Also was thinking a clutch like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-s15-SILVIA-CLUTCH-KIT-S15-Extra-Heavy-Duty-TURBO-Models-SR20DET-Eng/360792137127?hash=item5400e31da7:g:WcIAAOSwq7JT5W8~ Also the sound does follow the rpm

What about that knocking sound in the clip what do you think it is?

You are definitely right, I have someone who knows about cars but has never done a rebuild. We have the silvia workshop manual though.

So my Nissan Silvia s15 has a ton of problems, and I'm worried my budget is going to go overboard. Basically, when I reversed the car it would turn off and it turns out 2 cylinders or whatever is not working and the spark plugs were completely messed up on 2 of them. They were very black and the one cylinder that worked, the spark plugs metal thing on the tip of it actually was broken off but still working. Anyways, replaced spark plug and batteries still the same issue. When I turn on the car and let it run and even when it's warm it has a knocking like sound. Compression is low as mentioned first cylinder is 120, the second is 145, the third is 128, fourth is 145 I noticed the oil is THICK as hell, I went to drain some and it took quite a long time, maybe this was so the sound of the knocking isn't so rough? And lastly, when trying to put the car into reverse it's a bit of a challenge as it has a bit of a problem going into reverse gear (I think the clutch is gone). Just looking at what the problems could be. Here is a clip of the sound of the engine. Also the spark plug leads all seem to be fine. I added some oil to pistons and they went up from 120 to 140, so the piston rings are probably gone. Getting genuine parts is going to cost me thousands and I can't afford that. Not to mention I don't even know if the engine block is damaged, if it is I'm screwed. What is my cheapest option here? I was hoping to just replace the head gasket, clean the carbon build up on the pistons, and replace the rings with after market ones. Worth noting the muffler is all black as it spat out some petrol. Needed some advice urgently on what to do, what are my best options? silvia.mp3