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silviaz

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Everything posted by silviaz

  1. silviaz
    Ah ok interesting to know.
  2. silviaz
    Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
  3. silviaz
    How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
  4. silviaz
    Yeah was thinking that. I've had the car go lower idle possibly around 650rpm every once in a long time after pouring fuel and would sound quite rough like a misfire, almost like it's shit fuel or something but who knows.
  5. silviaz
    I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well) Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.
  6. silviaz
    Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
  7. silviaz
    Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be. If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
  8. silviaz
    It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
  9. silviaz
    Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v? SAU.avi
  10. silviaz
    One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
  11. silviaz
    Interesting. My tuner said after the tune that my fuel economy would be better but it is the exact same from what I could tell even though my car was running rich before lol. How much do km do you reckon you get on a full tank of petrol on your commute?
  12. silviaz
    I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).
  13. silviaz
    Ok will keep in mind. Appreciate your help!
  14. silviaz
    I suspect that to.
  15. silviaz
    That sounds pretty easy actually haha. But is there a reason why the tuner didn't do this? It's not like I've got a cammed 500kw rb25 neo. Also the tps plug is different on the rb25det neo and the r33 for example, I guess I'd plug out the loom which is this end? There's also 2 connectors.
  16. silviaz
    Ah right that makes sense.
  17. silviaz
    Apexi, though I'm not comfortable with setting the idle, knowing me I'll f**k it up lol.
  18. silviaz
    Yep. Saw that on the image above but, wonder if it makes more sense to clean out the iacv because let's say in theory mine is dirty and if I clean it the rpm will drop. If I first go to my tuner to drop the rpm and then go to clean my iacv won't it drop further or is the rpm a fixed number?
  19. silviaz
    Oh ok, so looks I should be resolving this? I was thinking of cleaning the iacv, and maf for a start and checking for any loose hoses. Already did a boost leak/smoke test and was all in the clear. I'm suprised the tuner didn't say anything.
  20. silviaz
    Is the 650rpm idle on the rb25det neo for stock cars only? I've never had my car before and after tuning it to idle at 650rpm when cold. Always idle's cold around 1100rpm, and then drops to about 900-950rpm. I've heard the r33 gtst's idle there.
  21. silviaz
    Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
  22. silviaz
    I went to Repco to get them to test the battery using their tester (not a volt meter), alternator shows 14.3v when running, and when the car was off after the it was on full load I think it was 12.6v but the guy said it was all good. Terminals are all clean, no corrosion. Though I coulda sworn when I tightened up my alternator belt the car idles a bit higher and the steering wheel shakes a bit until it's warmed up. I wanted to confirm for the earth cable/s, are you referring to the 2 wires that are bolted onto the frame rail under the battery? I might be overthinking this a bit.
  23. silviaz
    nvm this comment
  24. silviaz
    I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
  25. silviaz
    Funny thing is when i flexed the belt it seemed like it had the same tension as before. Like I didn't tighten anything lol. Will start the car again tommorow and see what happens
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