silviaz

Nah not the throwout bearing, it's something internal. I already replaced the throwout bearing. Mechanic misdiagnosed my car and thought it was a spigot bearing, went to another bloke who said it was an input shaft bearing. (I replaced everything when I pulled out the gearbox but didn't open up the gearbox. To clarify, you always hear it at idle unless the clutch is pushed in and as you're driving but goes away the higher the revs are. In this video at timestamp 6:03 : Mine has the same sound min

Yeah, a mechanic who knows these cars told me even if I get a brand new gearbox the noise will return but will be less noticeable. I've heard someone also they this noise came back after 3,000km on a new or reconditioned gearbox. It is pretty f**king annoying though just hearing groaning most of the time lol. I wonder if an aftermarket input shaft bearing would fix the problem or how they are built.

Does your rb gearbox have the common input shaft bearing sound? (One one where it goes away when u push the clutch in or get to higher revs) I heard if you put the wrong oil it can get this sound.

Yeah, I think it was a combination of me leaving car off for 4 weeks at one point (was a fairly new battery then) + then leaving it off for 2 weeks + and the time it spent sitting at the auto store or the warehouse. For the most part you had to put your ear to the battery to hear the sizziling but not always. 10 years is amazing battery life.

Good news. So it went up to 16.2 volts as per the manual then dropped to 13.6v where it maintains that voltage. The sizzling sound stopped after that. All is looking ok. Car starts up same as usual.

Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it and might take it out as a once off if this doesn't fully charge. I did some research that said it's normal in equalisation charging. Voltage I thought was 20+ (faulty battery in multimeter) but now its on 15.9v, the max it should go to is 16.2v as per the manual. I'll provide an update once hopefully it's actually fully charged and in float mode. Waiting for it to go to 16.2v and not higher and see what happens. What I suspect has happened is that even though it's not an old battery, I did leave the car turned off for almost 4 weeks at one point then left it off for another 2 weeks which might have erroded the battery and is taking a long time to do this equlisation charge.

Welp don't know if this is good but I can hear a sizzling sound in my battery Hope I didn't fry it. Turns out a bad battery in the multi meter will give a false reading (likely what happened when I said I had 15x volts), swapped the battery and monitoring now. I'm hoping that sizzling sound is just the equlisation charging

NS40Z SMF. The manual does show equalising voltage, not sure what it means though if it goes up there temporarily? EDIT: I found some more information here, I might have jumped the gun a bit quick, but still need to make sure I'm not overcharging

I just checked my voltage on the charger, and it's showing 15.1v on my volt meter and it's not even fully charged yet, is this an issue and overcharging? i selected the right battery type and charge settings

Death trap right there 😂

Good idea!

I'll be getting this one most likely, I'll provide an update if my battery blows up lol. Also where did you get your info? This is the manual, it says it can be left on: https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/media/hclfd0ek/cc1206-xli_century_owners_manual_1223_v10_final.pdf I checked your quote and it's only for lithium batteries.

Stupid question but I assume everyone closes their hood right when leaving their trickle charger on so their security system works properly?

What about hydrodipping? I was looking at it but if the piece is complicated the end result might not be as good, I've seen it recently where if you have a checkered pattern for example and dip it, the area where the plastic bends, those checkered boxes look stretch. Doesn't look terrible but not the best result either. Every rattlecan job I've seen has turned out crap (at least on the skylines, they are always peeling and bubbling) but I haven't seen anyone get a proper spray gun and compressor and go at it. In theory they should last a lot longer. Vinyl wrap is another option (also difficult if there are a lot of complicated sections)

Interesting, I've heard complete opposite on my end. Bit of a lottery I guess.

I thought they were easy to deal with from what I heard and it's companies like Shannon's who just refuse to pay out lol.

That makes sense. Thanks!

Don't see what difference it makes though. Mine has definitely been tracked though. Luckily the engine is in good nick lol

Yep, apexi power fc ecu. Yeah I do wish mine had the nistune, can still plug in the console port if you really want to and read codes. Mine can't do that, so gonna be more expensive to diagnose when shit goes wrong and it will eventually lol. I hope haltech is able to pick up on all these fault codes when I upgrade.

I'm pretty sure my car was owned by a bogan previously so they would explain things lol

Is this true with apexi ecu's as well?

Why do people remove these canisters on rb's?

For some reason when I initially saw the Rb timing set up I assumed that the tension was set automatically. Surprised that Nissan didn't do that or was that not a thing back then?

Interesting. I had that issue on my old car. After a rocker arm broke, the electrode must have been hit or something, though the cylinder didn't look like it was damaged when I put a scope down there, might have been the turbine but hard to imagine that a small piece of metal damage the turbine by that much. Seems like it's not even big enough to do the damage most of it.

LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.