silviaz

Ah ok, I see. Thanks!

Ok will do, thanks heaps for the tips there. I'm currently using one of those scuff pads for the entire body where I am removing the shine/ensuring the paint/prime can grip onto something.

Yes so in order to paint a panel I need to dull out the existing clear coat as part of panel prep, from what I understand. Ok I'll go higher on the grit mayne 240-300? Then finish on 400 before I do the primer? when you say make sure the car is flat, I was unable to find a block guide coat online. Are you referring to those tubs (image attached) and you use that to see where the imperfections are?

Ah ok, thanks for that.

Don't think that can fit in physically. Are you referring to this? If it happens again, I'm going to get the nismo ones.

@GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different. It's fixed (for now).

Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!

Hey all, I'm working on a project car and I believe I made some mistakes. I'm looking to remove the clear coat from my car on most panels (except for panels where the paint has blistered, I will sand this), but wanted to know if these steps are correct? 1) Get a red scuff pad (abrasive one) instead of sand paper to remove the shine from the surface 2) get 400 grit sand paper and go over the entire car with a random orbital sander so the surface is smooth and the primer can grab onto something 3) On the blistered paint, go over it with around 120 grit sand paper, go to 240 to smooth out the scratches, then finish on 400 grit. Anything to add in here or any feedback?

Yep exactly.

Yep. Took me a while to visualise it. I thought I had to undo everything. If I can't reach it with the wheels on (tight spaces) I'll jack up by the rotor Thanks for the help!

I'm sick of doing the same job a million times lol

@GTSBoy @MBS206 I just did some research and watched some videos. I think I know what you mean now. If I can't reach the bolt when the wheels are on, Is it enough if I take off the wheel and jack it up by the lower control arm to add some load instead?

Possibly why my bushing was creaking again because the wrong preload was applied?

If I'm using a 4 post hoist, won't I need blocks on all 4 wheels so it applies pressure evenly? I'm having a hard time visualising this

Ah ok I see. I still don't see how I am going to tighten the j arm bolt for example when the gap between the wheel and fender is thin.

How'd I do this if it's on a hoist or if it's on the ground with the wheel in the way? Don't see how it's possible. Unless I misunderstood what you meant. I tightened all my bolts with both wheels off the ground. Including the strut bolts, upper control arm, j arm, lower bolt on strut, sway bar. There was a lot of f**king around lining up the j arm with the bolts because I had to hold the strut because it kept spinning. Had to do stuff you normally shouldn't have to do.

Bit confused as what the answer to my question is? I guess with the front the only thing they can adjust is the tie rods?

Maybe but doubt it, when I jacked it up it was creaking in the j arm again. The inners are all good, I inspected them. Remember that also it did fix the problem but temporarily.

When going to a suspension shop should I send them the default nissan settings or just let them do their own thing? I ask this because I have aftermarket rear camber arms and my car is lowered a bit (front end is basically stock after I change to those nismo bushes)

Ok sounds good, thanks for your help. Hopefully if I end up changing it to the nismo bushes I don't get that veering issue. I don't think there's a point in lubing up these bushes again. Weird that it it makes just as much noise with all the grease inside it versus without grease prior to removal. Bizarre.

To clarify, I meant nismo bushes, not control arms (don't even think that's a thing for my car). So the suspension specialist said, if I buy those nismo bushes which are perfectly centered it will cause my car to veer in one direction. Whereas he said the current offset bushes that I have were put in on purpose to fix that issue. This will be my third wheel alignment if I put these bushes in lol. My chassis is straight, all my rails are clean.

Stock arms.

Yep r34. The bushings don't look all that old. I was going to get the nismo ones but a suspension specialist told me my car would veer left, and I'd need to put in adjustable camber arms to stop it + wheel alignment because the nismo ones are centered. He recommended that I keep my existing ones because they are camber adjusted. What are your thoughts?

J arm bushing. Surface itself seemed fine. Are you referring to the metal roller or the j arm inner surface? If so, i degreased that inner surface it seemed fine.

I recently lubed up a dry poly bush that I have, and it squeaked maybe 10km (not 10,000km) after install. I imagine this isn't supposed to happen with poly bushes or any. Piece of shit stuff lol. Used silicon grease from supercheap auto and I definitely put enough in because as I pressed in the bushing, thr grease came out. Anyone else have this issue? I'm considering changing to rubber