silviaz

Ah right I think I get what you mean, cheers for the info. As mentioned yeah I'll bring up the wideband o2 sensor with my tuner and give an update from there.

Ah right, interesting to know. I'll bring up the 02 wideband sensor up with my tuner as well.

Ah yep, foul I meant my bad.

Last question I had, can a super rich condition cause spark plugs to fail early? Say for example my mechanic says to change them every 10k but they fail at the 7k mark. From research I've done it seems to be the case, but then I assume it would depending on how much the car is overfueling?

Ah right, now wondering whether I should waste money to get it tuned at all, probably a good idea I guess considering I don't have tuning papers from the last owner.

Evo's now that you mention it do tend to stink I've noticed lol but don't remember smoke. Is that taking into account a properly tuned aftermarket ecu?

Yeah, I think I keep getting bad advice. I'll get a tune from a reputable place (from the place that they said black smoke on acceleration is not normal and hopefully it's fixed.) That one place I went to initially told me that they do run the car slightly on the rich side for safety.

That makes sense.

Ah, I thought as much lol. Me tuning the car myself would be a disaster, I'll just pay the 1k+ 🤣

My mechanic said that black smoke on boost is completely normal even with aftermarket ecu and tune, is this right? Sounds way off to be. Sure it's common because people don't tune their cars but from my understanding if you're popping flames or blowing a lot of black smoke, you're running way to rich? He was saying actually that you want to run very rich when boosting. Though a tuner told me you shouldn't have black smoke on acceleration only on deceleration. My spark plugs only last a few thousand km I noticed before my car started running rough, but now runs fine when putting new plugs in. Most cars that I've seen boost hard have never had black smoke on acceleration.

Really even though they save a ton of time with the copy paste it's still the same price as a full tune? I thought it was a time thing where the more time they spend the more money they charge, now if the adjustments take the same amount of time then that makes sense to me, or am I missing something?

Yep that makes a lot of sense, actually I was reading reviews a few minutes ago of this exact same scenario that you mentioned. Now, I wonder if they will do a copy and paste tune, doubt it lol. Less money that way for them.

I'd love to do a fix up but a tuner I went to says he doesn't do that, and it's easier just to do it from scratch because if they fix one parameter it could negatively impact another. I was trying to avoid spending $1k+, is this common with tuners?

I just realised my build had the 7s so will be putting those. Cheers man

I went to go search it up on Repco and autobarn and shows it's not compatible for my car, that's odd. Faulty search function?

I thought r34 gtt's run stock boost 5-7 psi?

Nope, I had some ones called "road claw" on a car with no traction control (luckily I never drove it in the rain) because I don't think that would have ended well lol. Tyres I think is one of those things to not cheap out on. I've heard stories of people using cheap Chinese tyres and almost totalling their car, just not worth the risk.

The BCPR6ES come gapped at 0.9mm, and I have spitfires and is lightly modified. I assume there's no need to modify that gap as per what you wrote above? Mine's also maxes out at 10 psi.

Ah ok cheers. Oh yeah I forgot that apprently if you go too high on the sand paper number that if the primer is too smooth, the paint won't stick to it. From memory, panel beaters go up to 400 only on the last sand.

That makes sense, weird, I've taken my head unit out several times and have never scratched that part.

Alright I'll give it a go. Ideally I want a textured look, but I'll spray one panel and see how it looks, if it looks like shit, I'll look into topcoat. When you say sand after the primer, do you think 800 grit would be good enough as it will sand down any imperfections fast enough without scratching the primer?

High fill primer to fill in deep scratches? Won't I need a f**k ton of primer for that as high filler is meant for once the filler has already been put in?

Yep same here lol. Yeah I thought if I sand it, it will be a smooth texture unfortunately, I guess I'll have to bit that bullet or risk the paint turning out shit from not painting it. How the hell does that pillar get scratched up anyway? I never scratch up my cars interior like that.

Last question, these panels seem to get quite scuffed up with deep scratches. To fill in the scratches would anyone recommend using body filler and then sand over it?

Anyone do this recently? I put a bit of methylated spirits on a paper towel and my head unit surround discoloured lol, went from black to yellow. And I noticed (especially on my ashtray as it was filthy) the material on the outside, took so many paper towels to get rid of the crap on there (some black stuff, not sure what it is), does anyone know why the hell these plastics are so damn sticky, is it just shit paint as others have mentioned? With the sanding what grit to use and what is the purpose of sanding, is it simply just for the paint to stick better? I was going to go with a 800-1000 grit sand paper. Also how to know if it's sanded enough? Some people sanded theirs and the paint still cracked.