silviaz

Yup, just wanted to make sure I found one that was a trickle charger and not just a battery charger, not sure if there is a difference there but assumed there was, was why I was worried about overcharging.

Ah ok, my tuner did adjust something on the percentage cycle on the boost controller, instead of running at 40% the tuner put it on 20% to compensate for the overboost, can't remember what it was. Not duty cycle don't think, and told me if it keeps overboosting, it's going to be something else. I think he mentioned the turbo actuator.

Which trickle charger does everyone use? I'm going on holidays in the future, and last time it was left for a couple weeks off twice per time, and don't want to keep doing it to damage my battery so looking to have something hooked up to the battery which connected to the car, as I need to keep my immobiliser system on. If the battery goes flat it will mess up my security system (already happened once) I was looking at the following, so can have someone turn it on every couple of days and run it overnight then turn it off) https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/noco-noco-genius-5-battery-charger-6v-12v-5-amp/648987.html?cgid=SCA01060203#srsltid=AfmBOoq4kzQgrm1YHSZT0DzaCwVwwOcevgu0TSDcUvrNeOqI-0S5xJ1C&start=1 https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/century-century-cc1206-xli-12v-1-3-6a-9-stage-battery-charger/693006.html?cgid=SCA01060203#srsltid=AfmBOoq4kzQgrm1YHSZT0DzaCwVwwOcevgu0TSDcUvrNeOqI-0S5xJ1C&start=30 though these don't say anything about trickle charging, don't want it to overcharge the battery.

Ok, good to know. I have open loop I think, I forgot which ones which but I am running the o2 sensor, brand new and I got a new boost solenoid because my last one was faulty and overboosting by a lot, but it's still technically overboosting. Haven't really bothered to hunt it down as I don't send it hard regularly.

Yeah, they'll find anything they can. "Oh aftermarket ecu, that doesn't comply with emissions" lol.

Mine tuned and smokey on boost lol, though I do overboost past 13.5 psi if I really push it. Might need to get my turbo actuator inspected if it's jamming. Do you know if the map sensor can have something to do with it? I hear they tend to fail.

Ah ok, I called a while back and they told me that. From memory I couldn't see anything in the PDS but I called just to ask questions.

Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?

Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example.

Yep that makes sense, thanks! I guess flogging these turbos in winter is more preferrable lol.

From what I remember, the rb20 turbos can take a bit more boost than the rb25det engines? Thought I read that somewhere for some reason.

I imagine the procedure is the same for the rb25det neo, except only difference being is the 2 air release plugs to bleed the coolant instead of one?

Welcome! How much psi were you pushing I'm curious if you've blown 2 turbos? I was overboosting at one stage and went over 14-15 psi, surprised I didn't blow it right then lol.

I'm keen for this content to 😂

Ah yep. I asked a auto electrician about getting a cheap rebuilt alternator vs a new one. He also said he used to it back in the day but it ended up costing similar to what a new one would and recommended getting a new one,.

Ah, to clarify if the car has already been tuned and has been modified and you want to go from a oem cat to a 100 cell or decat or vice versa.Are you saying that the car doesn't need to be tuned after a cat change if it's already been tuned?

Is rebuilding it even a thing? Where would the shop find parts for it? I looked at some off these local online stores for my r34 and suprisingly they had brand new aftetmarket ones for $600-800 I think. I guess r32 might be a bit tougher.

Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?

Not sure if this helps but I had a similar issue where one of the doors wouldn't lock unless I pressed the lock key twice. Turns out the door actuators were f**ked. In the Nissan service book it says to lube it every now and again, I guess put a bit a bit of wd-40. I replaced mine and haven't had a problem since.

When you say basic rebuild, you mean an oem rebuild?

Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.

If I get a larger battery and it hangs off the edge of the frame rail, would this be an issue? With FMIC a lot of people downgrade their battery size due to less room for shit, was wondering if it would affect anything but it would still be tight via the clamp.

Ah right that makes sense.

I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf

Not sure what you mean haha. That one doesn't fit mine but when I get sick of my one I'll get a standard one. I just gotta find a way to make it fit cause some shit is in the way.