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TerryP

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GTS25T
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    Terry

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  1. Never had any trouble with the standard viscous clutch fan myself, wouldn't even consider swapping it unless it broke and I couldn't find a replacement....
  2. You would probably need to resurface the head before you can use a metal gasket properly and your no where near the power rating required to warrant one. Stick with a standard fibre/graphite gasket until you actually have problems with blow outs.
  3. Never seen a AFM that cheap so it could be a fake. Either way, you could try cleaning the Idle Air Controller on the back of the intake plenum, this often gets all 'carbed up' and starts to stick. If you very carefully remove it (without dropping the screws and losing them forever) and tear it down, put some gloves on and clean all the surfaces with CRC MAF Cleaner and reassemble. Another issue could be a faulty CAM angle sensor. What year is the engine?
  4. To test a thermostat, remove it from the vehicle clean it, put it in a pot of cold water with a temperature gauge and slowly heat it on a stove. It should reach its maximum valve travel at the temperature it is rated for and stop moving, if it does not stop moving or does not fully open it needs to be replaced. To find out the specs look up the part number of the manufacturers website, there should be a datasheet indicating it's travel values
  5. Several things can contribute to this, however since you have recently replaced the radiator: Ensure ALL the air has been bled out of the coolant system, there is a 10mm hex head bolt near the front of the plenum for this purpose. You did not mention if the water pump was replaced, as per the manual this should be done every 100,000 km at the same time as the CAM belt. If you have access to diagnostic software and equipment for this car check the O2 sensor, if this is faulty your engine may run lean to 'compensate' for a bad reading, the leaner the fuel mix the hotter it will get.
  6. You should be able to measure the resistance change in the unit with a multi-meter. You should expect to see: Between 4.3-6.3 ohms when the arm is fully lifted Between 27.7-34.3 ohms when the arm is around the half way mark Between 73.3.84.8 ohms when the arm is completely down Taken from section EL-60 for Fuel Tank Gauge Unit Check S13 If the ohms reading on the multi-meter does not change then the unit needs to be replaced.
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