ZILR-34

well "VB-" wants to know why ceramic turbos are shit. im trying to say in other words if u boost them to beyond there limits they will fuc.k up.

u have just Answered ur own question. ceramic is more lighter than steel and more Flexible. when turning up the boost there is more air pressure goin into the turbo which the ceramic as a matrial can only flex so much b4 it comes weak and breaks or bends. i myself never seen a turbo blade brake off unless ur running like 25psi of boost. but wat i have seen is when u turn up the boost to above 14psi the ceramic wheel will come weak and bend forward which will start hitting the front housing (shaft play) and start grinding its self away into ur engine intake system. as for steel under pressure it will resize only 1-2% as for ceramic its more like 4-5% which will cause shaft play and then the damage starts. hope that Answers ur question

if ur planing of running a bigger turbo setup and want more HP. go for the bar & plate u will be needing it to cool down the air alot faster than a tube & fin. for a stokist setup tube & fin is the best way to go. better air flow and less turbo lag.

hi guys i just rang up just car Insurance and found out that it will cost me $2300 to get full Insurance on my skyline, thats bullsht within 2years u will pay almost half wat ur car is worth. and i dont want to get 3rd party coz they wont insure my 3k rims or car sound system etc if my car is stolen. just want to know how much u guys are paying for full Insurance on ur skylines. also if anyone can give me a list of Insurance companies that will Insure or cover imports. thanks bill

wat power tool did ur use to cut these out of the alloy? they look pro

this has happend to me aswell it wouldnt go into gear even if the car was on or off. i tried everything and still no good. so i changed oils to see if it was the problem and it was. in my case the thiner the oil the better it got. so fully synthetic oil is the best way to go. if ur not sure and dont want to spend the money for it. test auto transmission oil the red stuff (not Recommended to drive with just to test if it goes in gear smooth then dump oil and get fully synthetic)

can u post up the sizes difference's from standard to DBA 4000?

will that clear TIMING BELT COVER fit an rb25det?

[Deleted by Prank]

thanks guys for all ur help, i would be doin the rb25/30 conversion. i will keep u guys up to date with the build with pics. i will see if i can keep it under the 5grand limit cheers bill

what would the best and cheapest way to do the hybrid RB25/30? i know the R32 came out the the non turbo Rb25de would that be Direct blot up to a RB30e bottom end? And I know that the rb25de will work on the rb20’s loom and I wont have to change any sensors etc.. I was looking at the RB30 thread and its amazing how much kw’s these guys get on a stockish engine.

i can get the engine together and running with no problems. my mate has 3 N/A rb30's sitting at home and will give me one for free. but i want it to be reliable and not much screwing around under the bonnet 24/7. i was thinking of buying a Rb25det compelet engine package for $2500 but with that money i could reco the engine and slam sum forged pistons in. but with petrol prices goin up these dayz. i duno if it will be a good idea to run a 3L as a daily driver. im at the crossroads i think i have to put a vote poll up or sum thing for Rb20det - $5000 engine work, already in car and less head Fu<ks! or Rb25det - compelet engine package, drop tune and drive? or hybrid RB25/30 - with $5000 engine work, about 1month of off road and tune

how many kw's can a stock N/A rb30 bottom end hold? in that case i can easy sell the rb30et bottom end and pick up a compelet N/A rb30 so i dont have to buy pistions etc.. i have been reading around people have just bolted up N/A rb30 bottom end to a rb25 running everything stock but only a high flow turbo and they are getin close to 200rwkw's. if thats the case ill just balance the bottom end and do a mild port to the head and get better value springs. GT30 500hp turbo 555cc nismo injetors. 040 fuel pump with that should push over the 200kw easy

i havnt really sent any cash on the engine on my r32. ive spent cash on a bodykit and rims + respary. so the rb20det is dead stock. but if u say i could save sum cash and went to work the rb20 for 5k how much rwkw's would i be looking at? since i use it as a daily driver i want it on the raod asap with the less amount of time off road

and hows that? ive heard that the rb25det to bolt up to a rb30 u have to block up or weld up sum of the oil holes in the head coz it will flow to much oil in the head problem solved. as for the pistons in the block they will have to be changed if i want to run high boost levels.

yea i saw a rebuild kit fot the Rb25/30 setup on the business Section i think it was like $3999, but for sure the pistions will have to be changed to forged ACL. the kit inc. ACL pistons ACL rings crow rods main and big end bearings tomei head gasket 1.2mm nissan gasket kit this is kinda my homework so im just geting an idea if 5grand will do the job for the rb30 or the rb20 also would i be able to run a standard ecu and just get it remaped or chiped? coz once i get it tuned i would be playin around wit the settings. let me know wat u guys think cheers bill

i already got most of the things u said i got a r33 gearbox 2. i got a compelet rb25det head & compelet rb30et bottom end. so this is my homework just want 2 find out which will be cheaper 2 set up. i can do all the my self. how would u be able to get a rb24 from a rb20? change the crank?

about 3grand rebuild

my budget is about 5grand. but i love the Toque wat the rb30 has it just pulls. and the rb20 revs its tits off. the rb20 is in my 32 already

hi guys i have a R32 gts-t. im at the point i dont know wat to do. i have started to get all the parts together to do the rb30det with the rb25 head. but i was thinking the amount of money im goin to spend on the rb30 i could work the rb20 with all the goodies. ill be happy to get about 280rwkw's. so which engine so i build to make 280kw? cheers bill

"Clutch was removed because it was slipping on hill starts" LoL who's goin to buy a slipping Clutch for $400 when u can get a new H/D for $6-700

thanks 'DiRTgarage' Stacey. i will give him a call on monday cheers bill

will u just sell the gearbox? if so ill take it.

ive been looking around the net and i cant find anything on "jim berry" anyone know a website or anything about these?

how many earthing points is there and where do they connect to?