Noddy

It's a great event and pretty sad I missed it this year. should be there with bells on for next year. Might even have gentle back out for a belt through the houses. If not, killer the Carolla is always up for it. Have you ever thought about making it up for the Noosa hill climb? Similar type of event and magic bit of track.

Now to work out what sort of $ to put on it. Obviously i know how much i have invested... and then I wonder what low ball wanker offers I will get for it.

NUP, It's up for sale.

I could always put a container at the in laws farm... Good idea, it would smash my soul into tiny little pieces to see it broken up and sold off.

I kind of just fell off the face of the planet just there didn't I... My year got very busy with a wedding, repairing the levin, honeymoon and house renovations, all have stolen time away from my beloved skyline. the sadest part of all is that I am going to have to move to toowoomba this year and most likely to a smaller shed. I think I might have to part the old girl out and sell it off.

I realize this has probably been covered somewhere. Is there a way of streaming the races live. I hate the idea of pay tv.

It's a t3 flange and externally gated. Not sure how that is going to work on a std manifold.

What does the initial damage? Probably a miss shift up to third. There is an awesome technical little track in Stanhope that is all 2nd and third gear. Twice over the last 10 years I've come away snicketty from there where I know I rushed the up shift and forced it in. At morgan park and lakeside on a down change to 4th a similar problem where I didn't get a big enough blip in and rushed the synchros. Putting the third brass guide at the top definitely helped. We replaced the side ones too, they are pretty wrecked in most of the boxes we see. Why go to a T56? Well, my gearbox guy did all the development work for MallWood and has had a lot of experience with them. They normally have a number of Teflon parts that he has replaced with various metals. He has a few tricks up his sleeve that have gone into this box. The other major factor was that I was so over the 25 box. A bit over 12 months ago I sourced a late model (2000) 34 box and gave it all the things we have learnt over the last 8 or so years. 1st meeting of 2014, ttt weekend at morgan park, Saturday was just cruising through the gears beading it in. Sunday, 1st run 2nd lap up to 4th nice and easy.... crunch, and got worse every lap. The dogs on 4th were chewed to hell. Went hunting for parts and ended up with brand new 4th gear and selector hub. Shared the car at a mate who has been racing since the late 60's. I was racing he was doing a super sprint. We bedded the box in Friday practice and it felt really good. After the 2nd round on Sunday... bag of dicks. Some how bruce killed it. Went hunting and found a nice 32 GTR box to use, gave it all the tricks and raced at the lakeside classic. No practice so panzied through qually to bed it in. The race meeting went well, no issues, but I just didn't like the feel of it. Didn't touch the car again until the end of the year for a sponsor ride day at QR. It was fine. I spent the year racing my TRD Japan built AE86 and building a new motor for the 33. The new 30-26 should push a bucket load of torque. 9.2:1 comp, 1 mm oversize valves 88mm pistions 256/272 big lift cams with trust manifold and a pair of TD05's. What is going to stand up to the grunt, handle the race track and fit the budget?

I like the look of this kit

Located SEQ

I've used both ACL Race and King. The biggest thing you need to consider is your oil. Doesn't matter how well you prepare an engine, it's the oil that keeps it alive. 1 make sure you have a good pump. 2 keep it cool, invest in a decent cooler. 3 change the oil on a regular basis. Every 5-7000 km on the road. 4 good quality oil filters. I use K&N filters in Z9 size. Bigger filter with more surface area making it filter more easily.

Only used on weekends on race tracks. I've changed to a larger engine configuration using a twin turbo setup. I ran this on an RB25 with a 6 boost manifold at 12-15 psi making 300 to 340rwhp respectively. MTQ built the turbo using a modified T04B front cover for better response at lower rpm with a wider power band. An added bonus is the better bonnet/tower/cam cover clearance. This is a 2nd hand item. It has had roughly 2 seasons use across 5 years. (Divorce slows racing down a little it seems) The shaft has minimal play and is in good working order. $600, located in Dalby and can deliver to SEQ. 0411090019 Stuart.

GentleHart Factory breather/catch tank with braided hoses and an fittings. Custom made to suit the passenger inner front guard. $150 0411090019 Stuart

Lol just needs. I have found it a bit difficult to find a bell housing for under $1000. There is a conversion kit foe $2200. I'm thinking I can make a bell housing out of th 2 i have for less

Landed. Just needs a bell housing now.

Gearbox came today. Tremec T56. New from the states straight to my gearbox man who made some changes.

I have used an r32 GTR subframe complete with diff, axels, hubs etc. In stead of replacing the bushes I cut them down. 1mm cutting blade, removing all the rubber away level with the top of the cradle. I made 4 washers with an exturnal dia matching the cradle, the inner hole for a neat fit over the tube the body pin slides through and partedthem off 2mm thick. After stich welding the outer edges I cut the tube off flush with the top of the washer and weldedi it in too. Effectively I've solid mounted it to the body so it has been raised up as far as possible. This helps to keep the rear geometry roughly in the same position whilst lowering the body and center of gravity. It also keeps the roll centure happy. The rear bushes for the diff were pretty sad in it too. So, we measured very carefully and cut the whole section out and replaced it with 4mm plate. 3 sets of holes were drilled, first in the std location, and then 20mm above and below. Looking for better grip and drive from the rear we looked to some drag racing concepts like pinion angle. Kinda made a difference. The most drematic improvement for drive out of corners came from playing around with the squat angle of the cradle. Spacing the front of the cradle down about 12mm was fantastic. 20mm should be better right... nope it started to get messy under brakes in the rear. Up front I've remade the lca with rose joints for camber and track adjustments and moved the mounting point up higher in the cross member to match the changes in the rear. In actual fact, I developed the front first because it was suffering lots of mid corner and exit understeer. Thats when I started looking very closely at geometry and bump steer etc. Fixing the rc in the front accidentally created lots of bump steer. So I made an offset extension for the steering rack to put the tie rods back is the same alignment as the lca. Bump steer fixed and almost 0 accerman at the same time. I find I can carry a lot more apex speed which has helped me to keep up with more powerful cars. Turns in and keeps on turning throughout a corner. The rear end puts power down as well as anything I know of and drives off the corners. No more axel tramp. Corner weighting is another story. Done properly it makes the ballance so much better, especially the weight transfer side to side more than front to back.

Sold

I like the spaces for the front shocks. I will have to make something along those lines. Are you using pineapples on your cradle? What is your ride height? How is the rear roll center looking?

The only reason I'm changing is because gearboxes are free in the class that I race in. I'm going to a quaife sequtial setup.

I feel the pain.

Lol, you reminded me that mine has a 32 GTR diff axels and hubs. It is a hoot to drive, esp when im chasing down other skylines or zeds. I have found plenty of mechanical grip in mine. Come visit 1 day, I'll show you what I have found over the years.

The coilovers are an old old set of tiens for r33 gtr. There way too short in the front, wound up for maximum front ride height, but they still bottom out. The rear ones are good on length. The spring rates are a little hard to calculate because there conical. The best I could work out they are around 12kg/mm front and 9kg/mm rear. The sway bars are also an ancient cmr set from a front and rear cut I came across 10 years ago. The rear cradle has had the squat angle and roll centures changed. The diff is solid mounted at the rear with a change to the pinion angle too. Adjustable camber arms etc as well. The front has seen a change of roll centure, camber adjustments through the adjustable lca, adj castor arms, off set stearing brackets on the rack to fix a bump steer issue that was a result of the rc change also allows acaman adjustments. Brakes are std calipers with braided lines using Hawk HT10 pads and DBA 4000 rotors front and rear. Wheels are 17x9.5 +18 with Kumho V710 245/45/17 medium compound. That should about cover it.

I'm changing to a different type of box so this includes all my rb gearbox stuff, slave cylinders, clutch aligning tool etc.

Yeh, 600-700 at the wheels I'm guessing.