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Everything posted by Noddy
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it will be interesting to see how this handles with an RB up front.
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Hmmmmmmmm green on a track car. Maybe not. The old front lip was the bottom of a series 1 bar, cut off, turned upside down and screwed on. The next 1 I made from FRP and included a full undertray. The 3rd lip which is in the pipeline now is for a series 1.5 or 2 bar with better ground effects. new lip mkII underside of the new bar plug and splitter mkIII top inside, remember this is just a test dumby happy with the test modle, the new splitter mould has been made. Some thing I thought to share is the keyway modification to the crank. the bolt on the front can come loose and do lots of damage to the snout on the crank. I had the 2 1/2 moon key slots joined and a single key put in place. works well.
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Damaged Crank - Part Of My Rb26 Track Car Rebuild
Noddy replied to wrxkilla's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
I know this is an old thread and here is the pic as promised. I remembered this thread as I was about to put the engine back together, and grabbed a pic while I could still see it. The hole is tapped with a 4mm thread so I can get the key out if need be, the slot is wider and deeper than the original because of 2 reasons. 1, strength 2, the original harmonic came loose and flogged the 1/2 moon out some and the cam drive was frozen on. I stuffed up drilling and splittingthe original 1 off. All good now, 10 000km racing and going strong. -
What Class Do You Guys Run In?
Noddy replied to s13_Skyline_inside's topic in Motorsport Discussion & Builds
I think your wrong. I'm 99.9% sure you can run in 2A sports. I have looked into it with my local CAMS guy and am well down the 3L road. As far as Sprints go there is plenty of scope for 3L skylines. -
I dropped my turbo off at MTQ yesterday so they can give it a look over. Today I get a call, they and Garrett Aust don't have any listings or part numbers that match? So I tell them that as far as I know it is a garrett T300. Armed with that info they go hunting some more. A 2nd call from them to say that it was originaly built/designed for a John Deer tractor????? More puzzled than ever, they ask If I know any thing else about how it ended up on a car. It was part of a kit that HKS Japan did about 15 or more years ago for RB20's i think and they are looking into that lead. I wonder what tomorrow will bring?
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yes, top ring is molly and 2nd is black. the old ones were both Molly. Love the clip. Off tap jumping GT3' is awesome!!!!
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I was experimenting back then with making my own version of the Ikea Formula lower control arms. I was also playing with stearing linkpins and stuff to control things like track/camber, roll centure, bump stear and lock angle. In the end I cut the end off std skyline arm and added a big ass Rose joint. I turned up sleve/spacers to fit the crossmember and redrilled the crossmember for better roll C. Bump stear was fixed with a long pin bolted through the stearing arm and again using rosejoint as a rodend. The stearing arm has a plug in the original hole and has been redrilled vertical. All of this is now comercialy avalible out of JP and in OZ at places like Just Jap, not to mention a wholelot easier than what I did 5 years ago. You ca see the Rose joint easily on the arm here. The thread is around 19x2m and the nut is a big looking sucker. It is plated a welded in well. I didn't want to move the arms out at all because this messes up the geometry relationships too much for my liking. However I have seen a drift car or 2 at a national level redrilled about where th X is. I have messed around in the rear a fairbit and found some good gains in the grip dep. I find I can get the power on earlier and carry a little more corner speed than most other nissans I've run with. I ave replaced the old diff bushes with a 6mm plate section when the bushes died. Jacking on the diff didn't show the problem for a while and I spent a good 3/4 months trying to workout whre this axel tramp banging was comming from. My own Hicas bar too. dont play with It location too much either. can be scary.
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2A and 3D have basicly he same min weights to work to, around 1100 or 1200kg, Its been a while since I had a good look at the rulebook. basicly the way I read it 3D is heavily biased to single cam, 2 valved/cylinder, 6000cc V8's. Multi cam/4 valve, turbo engines have smaller/limiting hoops to jump through. It's as if this happend in the Old Fogie dep at CAMS. "It's not fair that our favorite yank & pom 1950 technology engines cant keep up with the more modern engines..... Lets tie thier shoelaces togther.....Dam there still fast, right, let's tie their hands behind the back too!" There are other advantages with aero and material choices. At the end of the day I will probably get my ass handed to me by a 1300 sports but I want to mixup the GT3's etc on rwd platforms. I was gaping Ring thismorning for the rebuild 25 race engine. Top rings were comming in at about 0.35 - 0.45mm not too bad. the 2nd ring were gaping up around 0.6 - 0.7mm. Working on the old 0.1mm gap for everu 25mm bore size is looking a little out of wack. I will wait till monday and give the supplier a call.
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I have all the paperwork inorder to sent off to Cams. It can go in 3D sportsedan or 2A sports... Just never decided which 1 I wanted to go with, untill recently. Going 2A sports with a 30/26 which Has been in the works for a few months now. The head was damaged when the #1 ex valves fell off. The damage was repaired, 1mm oversize supertech valves and springs, Ported and should have been flowbwnched last week. The figures from that should be going to SureCam where a pair of billetts are waiting. Hoping to have that motor ready around July allong with the rest of Yellow car to get it sorted for the Super Sprint Nats late next year. keep an eye out for progress updates.
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It's funny how tomorrow turns into next week. I have got all the components back and ready to re-assemble the motor when time permitts. So this is what I found out about what has worn and why. The most worn part was the top shell in the Bigends. Talking to the machinist guy, the oil squirter in the rod is bleeding the oil out resulting in the premeture ware in the shell. He has also linished and debured the crank while cheching the match grinding is still true. The crank had a run out of 2 thou. not bad I guess concidering the work load over the last 3 years. The pic below shows the ware on 1 of the bigends picked at random. The block has been acid bathed, washed, honed and decked. It looked in pretty good nick, there was some slight evidence in the bore and on the pistions of some minor detination. I have had some boost controler issues over the last few events which could have caused it. There are some fine marks in the hone if you look close and similar on the pistions. No pitting on the gasket, pistions or the head so it was pretty minor. The head had 2 Bucketts that wern't spinning and had worn the surface of the hard face. Guides were perfect on the inlet side and a very fine amount of ware on the exhaust side. Steam seals were replaced as were the faulty lifters and damaged bucketts. The best news out of the head was that the cams are in perfect condition. The pic below is where 1 of the faulty lifter/bucketts was. Not the sort of thing you thing you find untill you pull it down. I knew there was an exhaust leak out of the head, I'm told it is common for RB's to warp manifolds and leak at the ends. I had the exhaust side of the head faced, new studs and heli-coiled where needed. some threads were a bit sad. There was an extea exhaust leak from a crack in the exhaust manifold. It has cracked once in the past which I had spray welded earlier this year. Has re-cracked in the same place. Might get it rewelded..... Maybe a new manifold.... time will tell. The inlet side had a crack too. A rubber bung under the manifold in a hard to see spot had cracked. I see now there are several places where my sneaky minituare Ninja horsepowers were getting out. Sorry, Private joke. All up the motor is getting/has had New Rings big ends fresh hone decking the block, head, manifolds etc Headgasket 2 bucketts and lifters steam seals Cam belt and Tensioner Stud. The main question was, Do I put the motor back in the race car and keep on racing it till the new motor is ready, or, put it straight into a street clone of the race car? I decided on the latter so I can start working on the new suspension and other parts as early as possible. The Yellow race car has been reshelled into a street registed 33 GTST. Soon the motor and box will be in too. I'm aiming to get to the final Oran Park day on Jan 14th. Fingers crossed.
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What an epic story. Should sell it to Warner Bros.
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HAHAHA looks like some kind of robotic Octopus is trying to eacape!!!!! but then again, that is 1 hell of an engine bay to aspire to. good luck with the build, I like the wheels, the suit it.
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That is a wild looking cage. Does it go through to the front towers as well? couldn't see a pic showing that area.
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this is a link I need to fix. It is a mates George Fury Replica Bluebird hitting a wall ath the top of the Noosa hillclimb. The impact was transferd throught the shell by the roll cage. End result is the shell is now totaly f*^#ed. lucky he has a spare shell or 2 and is in the process of reshelling it.
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I have had a 33GTST since 2001, and it has slowly gone from the only registed car we had, to a track car still just clinging to the hope, and it was only a glimmer, of getting registered, just 1 more time. There has been a dark shadow of the shed that has been waiting, so paitently for the day I said, ENOUGH!!!! My yellow 33 now sits a bare shell, with only its rollcage intact. All the running gear, all the suspension, has been embellished appon the dark street 33. Don't think I should write a book, would be a flop I think. However I will go back about 5 years. I had been having a crack at some street sprints and QR sprint days and a bucketload of drifting. Then 1 day the motor just stopped. The cam belt tensioner stud just snapped leaving the lights in town on my way home from work. so that started the first serious rebuild. Pre-rebuild The body got flared, caged, seam welded, painted and so on helps when the miss's is a spray painter I made some suspension mods, just the usual stuff for flush fittment, camber, adjustability etc. The engine got a make over. The head was ported, new std valves, upgraded springs, 256 deg 10 mm lift cams and both cam gears. no more vvt. Paul Gillbert does some fine work. The bottom end was freshened up. Crank and rods were retained, acid bathed &crack tested. ACL Race series Pistions and metal bearings were used. Pistions are 0.5mm oversize for a fresh cut and hone in the block. Main bearings std size and the bigends 0.25mm ondersize and I had the crank match ground. obiously there was the usual decking honing and regular machine work involved as well. Colin Shore did all the machining and is missed very much. RIP. He also sent it for ballancing, some guy in Toowoomba who Ballanced all his race motors. Coll never told me who, only that you cant walk in off the street. Other parts in the mix included an N1 oil pump and coller, HKS tripple plate, modified plenum, remote engine oil and powerstear coolers, PWR radiator, new coil packs etc. Tuning has been fun, basicly it makes 300rwhp on 10 psi. some times I ran it at 14. Power is a funny thing, all I know is it has run hard from day 1 till just a few weehs ago. Nothing wrong with it, it's almost clocked up 10 000km, has a little blowby and Unique's dyno says some horses have left the paddock..... Still caught the slotcrar in the corners at Oran though. Racing it at as many events I can get to over the last 3 years has seen me shy away from drifting and focus on supersprints. There are 23 events crossed off this years calander, sprints hillclimbs some drifting, and with the national SS in Warwick next year (home track) I thought now was as good a time as any to rebuild and improve. The plan is to reshell everything into a still registerable road car. This is some hing that started in ernest about a week ago. Just waiting on the motor and box now. The head has gone back to Gillberts on the GoldCoast for a checkup, crank and rods to Darren Siddens machinist for a checkup and the pistions are getting treated to new rings. All in all it is getting big end's, rings, light hone and 2 lifters to get it back to new. Hoping like mad to have the new car on the road for chrissy. will get some more up tommorrow.
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Did you get the Timing equipment at the finish????? Looked pretty close there and must have been an awesome event. Bathurst hill is an event I want to have a crack at one day, Probably in 2011 though. How is your seat mounted Stu? it moves around alot.
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Just an observation and not everyone will every aggree what is best, however, it is funny you call street sprints slow. Addmittedly Wheels on wide bay is a slower and funny little mickey mouse track that doesn't realy offer much for drivers. Gatton, 1km 36.6sec, theres a bench-mark for a rwd car and not slow. At the Oakey track I was hitting 160+kph and carying about 140 through the chicanes it was a real challenge to post realy quick times. How do hillclimbs compare? (I'm thinking of Mt Cotton, Grafton and Noosa) Personaly I find them pretty similar to drive and definetly not as fast. The fellowship and atmosphear at both are similar. I think street sprints have an upperhand as the atmosphear is more relaxed and verymuch social events. 1 event I did last year that was a definte standout for fun and challenge was the short circut racing at Stanthorpe. L2S lic is all you needed and ROP along with the usual safety requirements for sprint or hill events. was only about $150 FOR 2 DAYS AND 4 min RACES EACH DAY!!!!! looking forward to whatever motorsport I get to do and hope to see you all out there lovin life. Which ever way you like it best.
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2010 Is going to be a slower year for me. I'm rebuilding the yellow beast with a complete new driveline and suspension setup. That is going to take as long as it does to fund it. I have just started to transfer all the suspension over to a spare shell and as the motor, box & diff come back from various reconditioners, they will go in as well. Hoping to have it on the road (registed) by the end of January. I plan to sell it some where along the line to help fund the yellow 1. There is also a NASR20 Sill80 in the shed nearing completion which could be ready for rego by Xmass. You just never know what I'm going to turnup in. This too will be for sale at some point to help fund the silly yellow skyline. I will try and run any of them at all the street sprints on KU36's, Morganpark sprint series and the Noosa hillclimb events as well. I want to get down to Lakeside and even down to Wakefield (the Nissan Datsun nats are there easter 2011 i think) if the budget allows. I have the entry forms for Gatton which I can email out if anyone would like a copy, not sure how to post them up here.
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You have a very smooth throttle application Hary..... in compariosion to a monster truck.
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I like the sound of this. count me in for next year. Should have a road going clone of my current track car, perfect class. Gatton entries were Emailed out this week, Perhaps a private KU36 Street Sprint Challenge is in oder, Gatton, Oakey, Pitsworth & Wheels on Widebay?
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Well, this can only be my relative uneducated opinion in these matters but, the hone still looks excellent, still need to check for roundness of the holes. Cams look pretty good. The grind marks are just bedded in on the tips. I will be sending the head off for a birthday next week and let them mic it all up. If my old machinist was still with us (RIP) he would probably be asking me why on earth I pulled it apart?...... but in more colourful language.
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Good to see everyone is having fun, taking home straight cars and even got the opportunity to play with a bucket and spade. By the way, What the devil made you spin in that direction on/from that part of the track, Were you drifting the kink again????? No photos yet but my Xmas rebuild is well underway with the motor n box out. Crack the motor open tomoz and see how it all measures up after 3 years of caining around the tracks. I expect a set of rings is all that will be needed. Hopefully it will be back together ready for next years Super Sprint Nats, at Morgan Park I think?
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this will be an interesting thread to follow. We put a set on my bro's wrx and the little street driving I've done in it they feel better than the potensas that were on it. Should get some testing in this weekend on the backroads around mawillimbah.
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No, going away with the family this weekend, besides, I've had over 20 race weekends this year. I think I've had enough for this year. Sprints, Gatton Oakey Morgan park series 4 rounds & Nissan Datsun Nationals lakeside X3 QR a Sat and a Wednesday, 1 time each Oran Park SAU day. Noosa Hillclimb Racing Stanthorpe Drift, Parklands x2 QR X 3 Stanthorpe X1 Tamworth X2 test days Morgan park X 3 or 4 Ps my quickest run at Noosa for the weekend, in colour. http://www.vimeo.com/7700160 PPs the bluebird hitting the wall at abit over 100kph. Was a big stop in anyones language.
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Just smiled perdy..... They have an invited class that you can enter and I got invited, I guess going to alot of the Street Sprints with them helps. There is also the Tigh Cams round there in the middle of the year which should be easier to enter. I will keep an ear out and let you know when its open for entries, other sprint rounds as well if you like.