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The compulsory aspect of the first aid kit is one for domestic registration purposes, meaning it's not mandatory for visiting international traffic to have one. One of the reasons is some medicines are legal in say Germany or France, but not in say Greece. Panadol or it is Asprin is one example. Fire extinguishers operate under the same scenario, domestic registration requirement only in certain countries. The vest, triangle - are an EU transport directive for EU country governments to mandatorily adopt. The vests, triangle, first aid kit (to national domestic standard), and fire extinguishers are recent amendments made to The United Nations Convention on Road Traffic; for 'the rest of the world team' to adopt with time. A respondent mentioned the requirement to register your AUS car IF you expect stay in 'a country' longer than three months. This derives from that UN Convention. Australia, of course, expects the same, ditto with licences. Am using an IPad, so somehow stuffed up and ended up with a double post. Sorry.

NT Country Liberal Policy as at September 2011 is that certain signposted 130km/h zones will revert to (//) once again, obviously if they win the next election. I have raised the possibility of making this a daytime allowance only. NT will likely retain it's 'rural default' 110km/h, and this could in time reduce to the range 80-90km/h. Anyhow, OP can take his Australian currently registered car anywhere OS he or she desires, legally. For this example; might like to consider taking it by ship to say Tilbury London UK. Contact NRMA (in your area) who can direct you to the specialized transport companies that do this. Done it before - decade or two ago, Euro Iran, India etc. The Aussie registered car MUST display the (AUS) nationality plate- tells cops OS WHERE the car is registered, not the drivers nationality. AUS photo license accepted in EU without IDP. (International Driver Permit). IDP suggested for lesser countries. The (AUS) plate and IDP are issued by NRMA as they are in your state or territory. See their OS motoring website too. AAA have an international traffic signs sheet for you too. EQUIPMENT: Car MUST have a single hazard-warning triangle to UNECE 27R Spec. Car MUST carry TWO high-visibility safety vests and these two items must be kept inside the cabin. Mandatory to wear BEFORE exiting the vehicle in zones 90km/h and above in Germany and now most EU states when the car has broken-down or if attending a crash scene. BIG FINES APPLY. REAR FOG LAMP install recommended, fit on driver side. Isle Of Mann remains speed derestricted (//), the Islanders voted NO to the mainlands push for a speed limit, idiots are not accepted. Hungary has some freeway stretches posted 150km/h, Italy 160km/h on certain intercity three-laned runs, 130km/h elsewhere. Some Indian States still run (//), 160km/h applies on some UAE roads too. ENSURE YOU TAKE OUT CAR ACCIDENT INSURANCE OS and that it applies wherever you will drive. Think medical too.

NT Country Liberal Policy as at September 2011, is that certain signposted 130km/h highway zones will revert to (//) once again, obviously if they win the next election. I have raised the possibility of making this a daytime allowance only. NT will likely retain it's 'rural default' 110km/h, and this could in time reduce to the range 80-90km/h, - along with the rest of the country. Anyhow, OP can take his Australian currently registered car anywhere OS he or she desires, legally. For this example; might like to consider taking it by ship to say Tilbury London UK. Contact NRMA (in your area) who can direct you to the specialized transport companies that do this. Done it before - decade or two ago, Euro Iran, India etc. The Aussie registered car MUST display the (AUS) nationality plate- tells cops OS WHERE the car is registered, not the drivers nationality. AUS photo license accepted in EU without IDP. (International Driver Permit). IDP suggested for lesser countries. The (AUS) and IDP are issued by NRMA as they are in your state or territory. EQUIPMENT: Car MUST have a single hazard-warning triangle to UNECE 27R Spec. Car MUST carry TWO high-visibility safety vests and these two items must be kept inside the cabin. Mandatory to wear BEFORE exiting the vehicle in zones 90km/h and above in Germany and now most EU states when the car has broken-down or if attending a crash scene. BIG FINES APPLY. REAR FOG LAMP install recommended, fit on driver side. Isle Of Mann remains speed derestricted (//), the Islanders voted NO to the mainlands push for a speed limit, idiots are not accepted. Hungary has some freeway stretches posted 150km/h, Italy 160km/h on certain intercity three-laned runs, 130km/h elsewhere. Some Indian States still run (//), 160km/h applies on some UAE roads too. ENSURE YOU TAKE OUT CAR ACCIDENT INSURANCE OS and that it applies wherever you will drive. Think medical too.

Legality, JVP was pretty much spot on the money. ADR's apply to 'new market' vehicles before first being sold. What applies after this is the NVS - "National Vehicle Standards". In relation to lighting, pretty much an ADR duplicate. Defect action would be on the basis of causing the compliant lamps to no longer be compliant. Automotiove lamps must reach certain photometric performance criteria as outlined in ADR and World Standards, once a lamp has been 'tested' by an authorised testing agent, the lamp is given world compliance approval - the 'markings' you see on the lens of all automotive lamps. Compliance ceases once you bugger around with the lamp photometric performance, basically speaking 'brightness'. Now at law, IF a crash happens on say a freeway under heavy fog (or in clear) and you have your taillights 'smoked' etc - and a person is seriously injured or killed by running into you, whilst generally speaking, the rear car is typically considered 'at fault', your 'contributory' actions can result in increased proportional blame, or blame directly being apportioned to you. You could face even more severe consequence, or goal. Whatever you do, just use a bit of commonsense, leave the rear red reflex reflectors alone, the rear fog that sort of thing. personally though, I'd not mess about with rear lighting, EXCEPT to buy compliant 'different' aftermarket taillights, see those markings again; "E marks" for a hint as to a lamps legality.

Nice pics! As secure as possible is all I'll add, I'd be bolting rather than relying on tappers et al. German cars tend to have the extinguisher under a drivers legs, do what best suits you. CAMS requires a warning triangle, I suggest the Euro or UN variety, accepted under AUS Standard, AND is the better performing product in night reflector and daytime inner triangle fluroescence. See Sig example. OT a bit: High visibility safety vest used by roadside at crash scenes and breakdowns to EN471 (EU and world standard) or AS cost as little as $6-00, further cheap insurance.

On the highways A LOT of people are dead set on doing the speed limit as posted, thats for sure, even in rain, fog. Must do those numerals, come what may. Now what happens if I (//) the length of road, what speed shall you drive then?

This topic perodically raises its head literally hundreds of times over many forums. "DRIVING LAMPS" and "FRONT FOG LAMPS" are NOT the same thing. A driving lamp is used to aid a vehicles existing high-beam performance when its high-beam headlight switch is turned ON. Front fog lamps appear in both SELECTIVE YELLOW or WHITE-OPTIC. DRIVING LAMPS are WHITE-OPTIC, despite 'blue' bulb availability. For law enforcement purposes (as to 'use'), police need only look at a lamps COMPLIANCE MARKINGS on its lens to determine the lamps COMPLIANCED FUNCTION, this is VERY SIMPLE to do. A complianced front fog lamp will show an E mark, eg; (E13). This means the lamp is world complianced (the letter 'E') and was tested by an authority in Luxembourg, the number '13'. NEAR this E mark will be the designation: "02B", here - the letter B represents "FRONT FOG LAMP". For a world complianced DRIVING LAMP will be the designation "HR" representing "HALOGEN DRIVING LAMP", or HR-P representing "HALOGEN DRIVING LAMP PLASTIC LENS". SOME LAMP LENS will bear BOTH markings, BUT will typically be "SET" for one function, either driving or fog, ref to switch! ANOTHER ULTRA SIMPLE WAY to tell if the suspects car has front fog or driving lamps is the ACTIVATING SWITCH'S "SYMBOL". A front fog lamp has a unique ISO switch symbol,- as has in turn a driving lamp switch. A front fog lamp 'factory' install will typically also show a GREEN LED on the switch or dash - to advise the driver the lamps are on, this pilot light is optional, but widely used. ADDITIONAL: FRONT FOG LAMPS are NOT DRL's "DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS" no matter how much alcohol or pub-talk influences opinion. A complianced DRL runs on a 12 volt system at P21watts. Front fogs are complianced at 12v/55w, (ditto inboard driving lamps, below). A vehicles STANDARD (halogen system) LOW-BEAM is set at 12volts/60watts and HIGH-BEAM at 12volts/55watts. Yes, that is accurate! Front fog lamps are designed for the specific purpose, to aid a drivers forward vision under conditions of hazardous weather conditions causing reduced visibility. THE LAW as at 21 July 2007: Currently only NSW and WA have SEPERATE 'STATE REGULATIONS' that directly prohibit the use of front fog lamps in clear weather and each state will fine you for having them on IF you can see a cop to enforce it. THE FUTURE: Existing AUSTRALIAN ROAD RULE 217 (rear fog light use prohibition) will be modified to make the existing WA and NSW prohibition of same NATIONAL. This change is required for many reasons, but also to bring Australia in line with the "UN Convention on Road Traffic, Road Signs & Signals" where the front fog lamps are restricted to 'hazardous weather conditions' - BUT USE MAY be allowed at night in clear conditions on TWISTY MOUNTAINOUS ROADS. A complianced front fog lamp bears typically a wide, flat, fan-shaped beam pattern, with a 'direct forward' beam reaching 10 - 35 metres out, to a maximum 50 metres. "GLARE", caused by standard and untouched front fogs is generally achieved when an approaching vehicle is within 100 metres and closing as that driver nears you, remember - the 'wide factor' of the beam. Many variables here. IF you have front fogs DON'T EVER increase the bulbs wattage;- in lousy conditions you need to reduce glare, not increase it. You can use E Marked complianced bulbs, including "PLUS" or BLUE variety, BUT I suggest "ALL WEATHER" variety. These give a softer yellow tinge - to reduce glare. ONE REASON why folk complain of front fog light glare has to do with the HOLDEN COMMODORE SS of the VX-VY Series. These lamps DO NOT bear world harmonisation markings, but 'evidence', as usual, was supplied to DOTARS suggesting the lamps were ADR compliant. These disasters were made in South Korea and supplied to GM/H. This 'evidence' is very rarely tested and they slipped through. Thankfully, the subject lamps have been discontinued and the SS use compliant front fogs once again. HSV fogs have always been compliant. IN SEVERE CONDITIONS; it is best to have speed much reduced, naturally, and to then run with JUST the front park lights (sidelights/position) and your front fogs on, (if bad, rear fog too if you have one). This reduces eye-fatiguing reflected glare caused even by low-beam headlights, - BUT ALSO allows your 12v/21w FRONT INDICATORS to stand out more cleary to approaching traffic and traffic ahead of you.

NT's speed derestriction is no more. NT's NEW maximum rural default speed limit is 110km/h. Some key NT highways are to have signposted 130km/h speed limits. Other changes are a demerit points system based on the national model, and increased fine levels for speed and other offences. http://www.saferoaduse.nt.gov.au/changesataglance.html

NT's speed derestriction is no more. NT's NEW maximum rural default speed limit is 110km/h. Some key NT highways are to have signposted 130km/h speed limits. Other changes are a demerit points system based on the national model, and increased fine levels for speed and other offences. http://www.saferoaduse.nt.gov.au/changesataglance.html

Unless you make the effort to say NO, then you could lose the allowance, don't let it happen. http://www.no-speedlimit.com/No-SpeedLimits/HaveYourSay.php

Issue continues, link for your perusal: http://www.no-speedlimit.com/No-SpeedLimits/HaveYourSay.php

See NT thread on the proposed speed restriction. Additional national uniformity measures are also to be adopted.

NT members of parliament vote on a 110km/h maximum speed limit this week. If you don't wish this to happen, you *must* now ring and make contact with your local MP and tell them how *you* want them to vote at the time.

You unique allowance is under serious threat, and the MP's need to hear from you on the matter. More in the NT forum on this.

I'm inserting this post around motoring forums to alert interested road users, particularly those in the NT. Whilst I personally support the introduction of a rural default speed restriction for NT, it must be made 'quite clear' to MP's, that the adopted rural default NOT be applied on roads to which a speed derestriction sign is posted. This means NT can then have BOTH a 'rural default speed restriction' AND 'speed derestriction allowance' as it applies right now, but only to a specific length of road, that is, where it is posted. The speed derestriction sign (//) is an international road traffic sign, it's meaning in the UN Convention on Road Traffic, Road Signs and Signals "END OF ALL LOCAL PROHIBITIONS IMPOSED ON MOVING VEHICLES", hardly 'default speed limit', or 'speed limit 90, 100, 110km/h'. SHOULD NT residents wish to retain the speed derestriction allowance, I SERIOUSLY advise you to CONTACT your local MP, see links below: Let them know if you support a rural default or not, BUT ALSO - let them know to KEEP the speed derestriction sign, should a rural default arrive, so it can then be used on NT''s safest lengths of road. MAKE THE EFFORT, or lose forever your right to drive 'safely' - unhindered, at speeds above 100km/h. THE THREAT: http://www.abc.net.au/stateline/nt/content/2006/s1736723.htm NT COUNTRY LIBERAL PARTY: http://notes.nt.gov.au/lant/members/Member...&Expand=1#1 NT TERRITORY LABOUR http://notes.nt.gov.au/lant/members/Member...&Expand=3#3 NT INDEPENDENT: http://notes.nt.gov.au/lant/members/Member...&Expand=2#2

FRONT FOG LIGHTS have an effective range up to 50 metres, but typically perform 10 - 35 metres. Why? Because under the weather conditions for which they are specifically designed, heavy fog, heavy rain, in bushfire smoke, heavy snowfall - it is not technically feasible to send a beam of light out much past this - without causing hideous amounts of glare. Such a light would then be more technically akin to low-beam or high-beam! They offer reduced, reflected glare, you can note the difference between low-beam and front fogs on the headlining when you switch between them. Front fogs are also designed to show up the EDGES of the roadway whilst your at low-speed, so that you don't drive off the road, rem - this is when your at slow speed! The front fog lights MUST be compliant, more on 'compliance' shortly. Compliant front fog lights are either 'white optic' or 'selective yellow' in colour, indeed, the majority factory-fitted these days are yellow, around the 97% mark on new market vehicles. Xisor states he uses his to 'supplement' his low beam, highlighting his observation that the extra light 'close-in' helps him see better and avoid hazards. BUT, the argument fails in one primary respect, 'speed', the faster you go the less effective the front fog lights become, at 100km/h you are at 28 metres per second, IF you rely on front fog lights to see 'at speed' - you will have effectively seen and hit the hazard, and perhaps be past it before you react! Front fog lights are EXCELLENT for their designed intention, BUT it is crucial to have reduced your speed by a large amount, in Germany in heavy fog we have a law restricting speed on the autobahn to 50km/h - that gives you an idea, since you need this reduction, as a minimum to avoid any nasty happenings up ahead. Front fog lamps are NOT compliant daytime running lamps. In SEVERE low visibility conditions, or in general rainfall on the freeway in daytime, it is best to use only your park lights and front fog lights, this further reduces reflected glare, AND allows your front blinkers to be seen 'better' by other traffic, as low-beam can often mask front indicators. In Europe, the EU Transport Commission experts will tell you that 'the primary defence against fog and fog like crashes - IS the "rear fog light", IT IS ONE OF THE REASONS WHY REAR FOG LIGHTS, and not FRONT FOG LIGHTS ARE MANDATORY IN THAT MARKET in their design rules. WA and NSW have seperate rules to the ARR's prohibiting the use of front fog lights in clear conditions, as they are NOT daytime running lamps, and can be a distraction and that can lead to annoyance by some. That said, we are very close now to a re-worked Australian Road Rule 217 that will prohibit the use of front fog lights in clear weather conditions, this measn it will become an offence to have them on in clear weather throughout Australia, effectively bringing us up to date with most of the world. HOW TO TELL IF THAT LIGHT IS ACTUALLY A FRONT FOG LIGHT: look CLOSELY at the lens, you are looking for an "E Mark"; example "E13". THE "E" or "e" means the lamp unit was submitted for world homologation testing and approval, this checks that the lamps design falls within the parameters set by the relevant UN/ECE design rule, which Australia then adopts as both ADR and then in the National Vehicle Standards. NEXT to this E wil be a two digit number that represents the country code, example "E1" means the lamp was tested in Germany for world compliance. E11 is GB and so on. NOW - NEAR this E mark will be the designation "02B"; here the letter 'B' or 'b' is UN/ECE codespeak for "front fog light". OR A DRIVING LAMP: A 'driving lamp' - used to aid in high-beam performance, will bear the same E Mark and the designation "HR" on its lens; here the letter "R" is UN codespeak for driving lamp! Example; "HR-P" = halogen driving lamp bearing a plastic lens! PACKAGING: Some shops sell what are actually marked fog lights as driving lights, just be aware of the compliance function, often the suppliers get it wrong, and thats a fact. NOW - SOME lamps bear BOTH markings! Here the packaging is usally correct, in that the lamp is a driving lamp typically, BUT be aware that it will NOT perform as well as a dedicated single marked HR lamp. Such dual types are a 'compromise', more supplementing stanard high-beam than furthering it. THE issue of aftermarket HID modifications is a serious one, doing an illegal modification can land you a defect notice and an infringement under typically ARR for 'causing undue glare'. Don't do it UNLESS you get a guarantee they are ADR compliant. YOU CAN - Upgrade your light bulbs to marketed PLUS 30, 50 or even PLUS 60 Phillips type IF the products have the E MARK branded on the steel portions. You can also add a dedicated set of driving lights, say to a light support bar. IF you replace a set of front fog light bulbs, I suggest trying the "ALL WEATHER" variety, AS IT IS BETTER TO reduce glare in heavy fog, not increase it.

NSW only: RTA Vehicle Technical Enquiries: Phone 1300 137 302 VSI No 15 - Engineering Signatories: http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...s/vsi/vsi15.pdf See also VSI 6 - Light Vehicle Modifications: http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...s/vsi/vsi06.pdf And VSI 9 - Wheels and Tyres. (For interest) http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow.../vsi09_rev4.pdf NB - VSI 9 contains an age old problem and that is of tyre 'speed rating'. Now, the ADR on the matter virtually stipulates for new market vehicles that a car must be fitted with tyres bearing a speed rating that are equal too, or exceed the vehicles maximum top speed performance, Fair enough. However, here VSI 09 (also used around AUS jurisdications under NVS) for post ADR effect, allows tyres to be fitted that are speed rated LESS than the cars top speed maximum, something NT is not pleased with, and nor should they be. Arrived at because 'the maximum speed limit is just 110km/h', for politically correct reasoning you see, but has serious potential trouble for NT when such equipped vehicles visit NT. Very dumbed down and arguably most negligent.

ADR 18 relates to speedometers. A recent update to this soon means these are to read 100% accurate when at 100km/h, but may read up to 10% above that at indicated higher speeds. Basically mirroring UN/ECE requirements.

name='Freddy Kruger' date='19 Apr 2006, 03:54 PM yeah there needs to be more shit on how roundabouts work. especially multi lane ones... theres one here that is 2 lane one way and a single lane the other way. i see heaps forgetting to stay in their lane on the 2 lane part and some even think they have the right of way thru there. including a woman in a hilux who caused $2k damage to my car... he fault and i scored a front end repray and a new bumper. anyhoo thats not the point. Roundabouts = Give way to right. stay in your lane. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. No! I'm going to reinforce R32's first and operatonally legal point here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ic=114134&st=0# That you give way to vehicles already on the roundabout. No if's no but's. Meaning; that when *you* approach a roundabout AND a vehicle on your left ALSO approaches AND ENTERS in FRONT - AHEAD of you, *you* give way it, rather than driving on through and impacting that drivers door. And yes, you ALSO give way to the right IF that traffic is already on the roundabout. One does not, or should not stop at the roundabout whilst waiting momentarily for a car to enter from the right. RIGHT is not might. And I must say this has been found proven at law, and to me the regulations in ARR are quite stone clear. Indeed, our operational regulations in relation to roundabouts are EXACTLY the same as applied in GB, India, NZ, Malysia, China and elsewhere. On some larger roundabouts in particular - OBEY the arrow markings on approach. SOME roundabouts allow a right turn from the left lane. Here, the right lane is a right turn only lane and this will be marked so. Ditto, where the roundabout has a left lane bias. The markings matter so note them, and do not ram that vehicle ahead IF it has entered first regardless, you *will* lose in court.

Must get that 'terminology' right fellas. The first position of your headlight switch will be the 'sidelights or position lights', 'parkers' most Aussies call em. THEN the headlights, comprising low and high beam activate. Here btw, the front 'parkers' also stay on. Why? So that when the low-beam fails, the front outline of your car is still visible to oncoming traffic. The term 'rear driving lights' is not appropriate, conjures up images of a set of actual 'driving lights' used to aid high-beam. Try instead 'tail lights'. Nag nag nag:-)

The device is insulated against vibration harshness, so some important componentry there. Owing the cable connection, it'd likely be some kind of servo device driving something. The answer will be quite obvious to someone.

I write text for driver manuals around the world ranging from New York to NZ, to EU, Middle East, AUS - esp crash scenes (see the url in my Sig) and hazardous weather lighting texts, motorway lane use text, look after the sick and dying, nag all governments for funds and a better road user deal, nag treasuries too (the most powerful of all agencies) and fight for high standard improvements to our road design guidelines. RTA called me a motorist's advocate back in 1983 and its stuck since. I am now mostly dealing with NSW, when attending functions et al keep quite, take note - and often take the fight from there. Member of literally a zillion motor forums (and Sat TV/Consumer sites), where if I get the time I post. Paid particular attention to this forum after the Skyline crash that killed three persons on the NSW Central Coast, with one of those victims mother being personally known to our federal roads minister. In effect, to gain an understanding of what folk in this group think, feel and act.

See post two. They are speed limited to 80km/h. Range is not specified, but they do wear down fast. Typically pressure is to set around 65PSI. Bl4cK32 wrote: "I had to go down a 90 stretch with it on, but i sat around 85. By the end of it you could smell the tyre wasnt coping with it, even for the short time i was doing 85". Because your were exceeding the tyres maximum designed speed. It tells you 80km/h, but that is not for a sustained period of driving. It is literally designed to get you home or to a garage at low speeds, hence the loud wording TEMPORARY. It is vital that its tyre pressure is set to the maximum stated on the sidewall, typically 60PSI. Predator wrote: "The best I ever saw was a new model merc driving along the M1 at 110km/hr with a space saver on. Female <ethnicicity here> driver. Had to change lanes as I just didn't feel safe driving anywhere near her car". You have perhaps highlighted a need for a specific 'exceed speed limit - space saver wheel' fine. This may eventuate yet following the coronial and would supplement existing penalties. I'd be looking at $500. I will ensure the NSW Road Users' Handbook makes clear mention of them, 'the limitations'.

THIS crash highlights the very clear warning given on SPACE SAVER spare wheels. These are basically a very narrow treaded TEMPORARY-USE-ONLY spare tyre and rim combination, purely designed to save 'space' in a vehicle. They bear a clear YELLOW WARNING label. They wear down quickly and are certainly not designed for high speeds. By design parameter, they are speed limited to 80km/h as a temporary maximum, and of course are NOT meant for HANDLING. It is particularly vital to ensure this type of spare is FULLY inflated to the maximum stated on the sidewall. In this crash, the driver was overtaking and then lost control. Speed is a factor in particular owing the nature of the manoeuvre. Responsibility rests with the driver, don't make blindingly obvious mistakes.