SSSHONKY_V_2

OK so, things are progressing well. My torque wrench proved unreliable at low torque settings so was fortunate enough to have a good mate loan me a Sidchrome precision torque wrench , what a beauty of a tool to use! I did the initial 3 passes , so now they are all loose waiting for the final tightening. My question is: Who uses the angle measurement tool for the final tightening? I am not adverse to buying one considering they are pretty cheap, or just dummying something up with cardboard and something to hold it in place with. Is a torque wrench enough, or do you need the angle of the dangle?

Thanks @Ben C34 I appreciate the confirmation

Hi All Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence 1st Pass - to 29N-m 2nd Pass to 98N-m 3rd Pass - back everything totally off? 4th Pass - 25-34N-m 5th Pass - 93-103N-m Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead?? @the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

@Stinky Rooster I never knew you were still kicking around on here. I just came for a quick interjection .. There was an old Sci Fi book ( I mean way old ) where basically you could jack different "shards" I think they were called into your brain and suddenly you had a wealth of knowledge about a certain subject. I am currently preparing the block and cleaning out all the old shitty gasket crap , got 1/2 an idea what I am going but I just thought , what if you could just automatically be a guru at any given subject that's on hand? And no, I have not had any illicit substances or drank a bunch of booze lol I just want to know how good the surface of the block needs to be to ensure the new head gasket has every chance of success. Currently working on it gently with an angle grinder J/K!

Hi Murray No offence taken, I like to learn from others. So the long and the short of it is, this is very much a tight budget head gasket replacement,trying to do as much as I can by myself as we are on a single income and don't have much spare cash. I do realise that a poor decision can end up costing a lot more in the long run, so could you please educate me as to why it's a bad idea to re-use the head studs? Is there a chance they could snap when you go to re-tighten them to the correct torque settings? Thanks

Thanks for the feedback Victory, that last image was a nod to the origins of the "We're not fancy but We cheap Eh! starement ( WA Salvage god knows how many years ago now)

Hi all , @admin Please delete/move if incorrect location or not helpful. I am in the middle of getting all the bits and pieces I have removed from the engine while replacing the head gasket on my WCNC34 Stagea ready for re-assembly. I was looking for some way to secure small objects such as nuts and bolts etc after degreasing them to hold them safe while I pressure wash all the gunk off, found some plastic mesh type baskets in the shed and came up with this idea. Also keeps them upright for drying / spraying with oil later to prevent rust It's not fancy, but it's cheap!

Hi all @KiwiRS4T thanks for the link, made life so much easier Ended up getting a kit from supercheap for not a lot of $$ and it came right off like a bride's nightie. Making progress but just making sure it's methodical so I don't fck anything up

Yeah so I cranked it over and the nut cracked no problemo ... I was expecting a much more dramatic result. So now it's all off - I am just trying to find someone with a pulley puller I can use. I know people can be funny about loaning out tools , I go by the motto of Never loan out your wife or your tools cause they will both come back ... ( you can work the rest out ) Thanks for the help, I should get more involved in these forums again , I miss the camaraderie

Hi Ben, thanks for the response, it's really appreciated I was thinking that the motor would not crank over at all without all the bits and pieces like the crank angle sensor off etc, The cam covers are off and the coil packs etc are all out. I guess you are implying that the starter motor will still do it's thing yeh? I was thinking the same thing about getting the belt back on without access to the tensioner but the motor only has to turn a bit to crack the nut

Hi All I used to be active on this forum a while back as Ssshonky, but since then a lot has changed, had two kids etc etc. To cut a long story short, I still have my C34 Stagea, it has seen a few k's by now and has blown a head gasket, so I am in the process of stripping it down. The exhaust and inlet manifolds are off, and I have the motor at TDC, ( Checked the marks on the inlet and exhaust cam gears ) but I have realised that I should have cracked the nut on the crank before the car was torn apart to the stage that I can't start/turn it over. I have read a few posts that advise you can get to the crank via the sump, but my question is do I need to take the crank pulley off at all? I can see a marking on the crank that will show me if I have moved it at all, so I could get it back to the original location. The timing belt looks in fairly good condition and I am thinking that I should have enough slack to get the cam gears slipped off the belt without undoing the crank nut. Thoughts? Am I doing it the 1/2 assed way? I just don't want to have to do more than required, but I also don't want to put the thing back together and have it go bang. I don't have enough room to get a rattle gun in there or I would have done so Thanks in advance!

Hey matey , are you still chasing one of these?