Jasper34gtt

It's a stock rb25det neo engine in a er34 by the way

Hi there! I'm in the process of swapping injectors, I've read several how to's and loosened every part to get to the fuel rail... But they were all side feed how to's. Could it be that the top feed, neo injectors and rail are too long to get out with the top half of the intake still mounted? Or is there a trick? That stupid plenum gasket costs like €100 euro, so if I don't have to take it off... I'd like to keep it in place. Thanks for the help! ❤️

Ok I will check the cat. And as for boost coming from hot or cold pipe, I just installed it exactly the way turbosmart advised. People do have good boost over the complete rev range with just a manual boost controller? Or do most people install a rb20 actuator? I thought I might give that a try... Maybe the wg spring is just too weak

Just a thought... Could it be that the stock cat is too restrictive and exhaust gas pressure is pushing the wastegate flap back shut?

Using the cold charge pipe as feed instead of directly from the turbo housing, shouldn't matter I think. But I'll try From the compressor housing yes. I tried turning it up and stopped at 11psi. Then after 4500rpm it goes back to 7psi for some reason. I will try your suggestion to remove the ball and spring. Thanks

The T only has one input and one output... In comes from turbo, out goes to wg actuator. I think that's correct

I deleted the 2 stage boost solenoid. Incoming line to the turbosmart boost T comes from the turbo, and outgoing goes to the wastegate actuator. Anyone else using only a manual boost controller and running 10+ psi? I think something is not right, it should hold boost

He said the turbo isn't capable of delivering boost at higher rpms. It's designed for lower rpm torque. I'll post the graph when I get it from him

Hi, I just had my 25 neo tuned today on a apexi power fc. The engine is stock except for 3"exhaust all the way and blitz fmic. I have a turbosmart manual boost controller, set at 10psi. But after 4500rpm, the boost won't hold and lowers to 7psi at higher rpms. Is it time to start searching for boost leaks? Or is there something I'm missing? Thnx. Jasper

Ok thanks

The oem oil temp gauge doesn't work well? (I'm new to skylines)

Would it work if I just put an extra wire on the sensor, and fit it onto pin 17 on the gauge connector directly?

I only found the wiring diagram for the white plug, as I know it's for the triple gauge. I don't know what the Grey connector is for... So kind of hard to search. That's why I asked I anyone knows what that plug is for

Hi all. I have a R34 gtt with non working oem triple gauges. I found the white connector connected to the triple gauge, but it only has 2 wires attached to it. (+ and gnd, so alternator gauge works) I think some previous owner added it to the wireloom Does anyone recognize the Grey connector? It's laying underneath the gauges, not connected. Does it maybe hold the wires to cut and connect for oil temp and turbo pressure gauge? I know what pins the wires have to go to on the white connector, but I don't know which wires to use from the Grey one. Thank you!

I'm gonna drive this box till it breaks, then buy a new R34 gtt box incl clutch. If it's too expensive, I'll convert the box to push and buy a R33 clutch. That does work, right? I'm new to skylines, so I'd better ask.