Jax

I agree, or as a last resort, take it to an Auto/Lec.

This is the right answer, you don't need new! Find out, in your assembly of the master, why the seal is covering the hole so the fluid can't return to the reservoir.

Can anyone suggest how I might turn this from a simple question into a complicated one, where there might be dozens of possible answers? Everyone seems to have a go at the hard ones. This is just too dull, just wanting one little measurement??

Go on to Page 3 of this "General Maintenance" subject, and there's the same subject ( about 20 posts, I think)... May help, and shortcut doing it all again. Have you tested it after a reasonable distance. Takes a while for hot warer to circulate thru heater radiator.

Yeah, right, What would the factory know ? They only design and make the car. I said standard specs. Modified can be anything. Plat plugs not long life??

Try JPNZ. Maybe? I think it's jpnz.co.nz They were looking at translating Japanese wiring manuals some years ago. Don't know if they did so.

You don't drive an auto. It drives you. You're just a different class of passenger.

100 bloody thousand is what the factory says. Not a guess, or an opinion. Changed mine @ 108,000, for something to do. Gave no trouble, and all tested out perfect, after removal. Kept them. Would be happy to put back in, if had a faulty one in new set. Why would the factory say 100 if they meant 20 or 30 or 50??

Yes, they're not bled properly. Don't know how the lines run. It's possible to trap air in a low section of line, and not have enough fluid displacement with a pedal stroke to displace the air ( it just rolls back to the low point ). This can be a bit time consuming, but often works. Jack up one wheel, as high as possible, and bleed that wheel. Let it down, jack up next one, etc. Otherwise need to have it 'pressure bled.'

Somebody -- Anybody ?. Someone must have a pair sitting on a bench, just waiting to be measured??

R32 GTSt RB20det Engine (Standard Specs ) Platinum Plugs - Factory recommendation = 100,000k.

True, but it's not only the boiling point. As fluid absorbs moisture, it becomes more and more corrosive. So you need to change it regularly for that reason, even if braking performance is OK. Corroded/leaking cylinders, etc., more expensive than fluid changes.

I've been following the various 'suspension' and 'shock Absorber' threads, looking for answers. Got a R32 GTSt with ride heights of F/R 350mm, Left 350.5mm, Rear Right 345.5 and Left 350mm. The front , both sides. but worst on Drivers side, bottoms out hard over pretty minor road irregularities. Shocks are Bilsteins and seem quite firm, and no rebound when pushing down on front of car. Can only think that bump stops at fault. Can anyone tell me their stock height, or thickness or whatever?

What's this about notches ?? Someone - Anyone?. My front suspension looks OK. Shocks ( Bilsteins ) feel right when pushing down on front of car. Quite firm with no rebound, BUT, even small irregulatites in road ( does'nt need anything resembling a pot-hole ) and it bottoms out on tha bump stops - HARD. R/H worse than L/H. Ride height - both sides Front 350mm. Can't see anything like 'notches' on shock absorber body, but was wondering what located the lower spring base on S/ Abs. What am I not seeing?. If there are height adjusting notches that I havent seen, can height be altered without removal of spring / shockers, etc.? Just did more accurate ride height measurement R/H Front 350 - L/H Front 350.5 - R/H Rear 345.5 - L/H Rear 350.

Ta, Looked there. That's where I have around 100mm available vertical movement, which should give plenty movement at tyre. I'll keep looking. There is an explanation for everything. There is no magic.

'mazing !!! Thought it was suggesting some porn action. Maybe later, when I've got over this problem. Does anyone know how to change name of thread, so more ppl look at it? If so, do it!! But is anyone sure that suspension probs will get more attention than porn ?????

NOW I really don't know what's the problem. Just had wheel off to have a good look. Could'nt find any bump stops from underneath car. Good reason I could'nt find them - There are none!!. Can't see any place where any such thing could be fitted,either. Don't understand what locates bottom of coils around shocks ( Bilstiens ), theres a plate there which just seems to "be there" around shock body. Can't see what keeps it there. About 100mm available movement on shock absorber, which would translate to about 170 / 180mm at centre of tyre. More than enough. Any more and tyre would touch inner guards. Only moves a FRACTION of that before it bottoms out on something. I really don't get it. What am I missing???

I always thought it was standard, but maybe not. I had a look under it to-day, and in theory there's plenty of suspension movement. Nothing to limit it, that I can see, but in fact it doesent move much before it bottoms out ( hard !! ). I came to conclusion it had to be limiting in the Shocks, somehow. Suspension not too soft, quite firm, so I think have to come down to mis-matched Shocks. Does anyone know where to measure the ride height, and what it is standard factory setting?..'92 GTSt. ?

Probably gas, BUT do the diagnostics See adams post above. Easy to do, and will help to narrow things down.

Can it really be that simple? Anyone else?

R 12 A Gas been a bit of a problem, but worth it I think. Originally NO Air- Con people in the whole area that I could find, even knew there was more than one gas. I live in Northern NSW.Byron Bay / Ballina / Lismore etc. Went back on net and found I was in a forum on Porsche site. Same discussion re re-gassing from 'old' 12 gas. They were talking about same probs / advantages with R134 A V/S R12A. Found that R12A is also called HR 12, Manufactured in Melbourne by HyChill. hychill.com.au They have good website Found local suppliers, who gave me name of Auto Lec, who they supply, in a small town not far away. Went to see him. He uses both R134A and HR12, and confirms all the advantages of using the HR12, on older systems, as spelt out by Cubes. Real good info. Now I need to find a "Discharge Pipe" 'cause that's where the leak is.

No, not blowing hot air. Blowing ambient, or Maybe?? a little cooler than ambient. Think it almost certainly is the gas. If I can find some of that R12A, we'll soon see.

Whatever you use, DON'T set up a car to understeer. It FEELS safer than oversteer, so I s'pose you feel a lot calmer an instant before you hit the tree. Work it out yourself. If you're going right, and the understeer is preventing you, and you put on more lock ( and put front wheels more sideways ) you lose more traction on them, and it understeers MORE, etc, Here comes the tree!!!. Oversteer is the opposite. You're instindtive reaction is the right one (work out what's happening with the front wheels) It might feel a bit tail-happy, even if you over correct. Your gut reaction STILL tells you which way to steer. All you need to know is where you'd like it to go, and keep repointing it there, and you're always doing the right thing. Most FWD cars are natural understeerers. KEEP OUT OF THEM.

Probably silly question, but ever since getting car R32 GTSt, 1992, Front suspension bottoms out VERY easily ( does'nt need a pothole), almost any reasonable irregularity in road surface will do. Car handles well, seems standard specs. Is this really normal?? Had car 3 or 4 or more years. Always been same.