Jax

Thanks all. Got the heat going OK. COLD a different matter. All actuators and doors, etc. seem allright. Think probably refrigerant - everything else seems to check out. Probably the original refrig. Can't recharge with "old" Gas. Does anyone know what's involved with changeover to new gas? And about how much to do it? Provided everything else OK.

Bloody Hell. This is page 28 of this thread. Taken me hours to read. After page 2, I felt I knew what to get in the way of an aftermarket Oxygen Sensor. Now, at page 28, I HAVE NO IDEA WHATEVER. Can ANYONE, who has actually done it, on a 1992 R32 GTSt , RB20DET Engine (and Nothing Else ), tell me what they used, and which had the right thread and three wires, 2 of one colour, and 1 of another. AND IT WORKED. PLEASE??.. Just that answer. I don't care what else it fits, or what size spanner to use. PLEASE??

Have done the diagnosis. 25 flashes. Am told this is 'Sunload Sensor' What does it do ? Is it important ?, Everything else checks out OK. I actually took temperature readings Outside, Inside, and at outside intake grill. They were Outside - 26, Inside- 28, Intake - 26.. The indicated temps were 25, 30, 26, and Refrigerant 23.5. I take it these are within acceptable range? Still the temp wont drop when on cold. Compressor cuts in and remains so. Must be refrigerant ?. This still has old refrigerant. Supposing nothing else is wrong, anyone got any idea about how much it should cost to recharge system with new refrigerant? Found something interesting while I was "playing " with this diagnostic test. If you hold down the 'cold' arrow, after it indicates lowest temp (18), then it goes onto 'manual' and indicates FC. Same with 'hot' arrow. Reads FH. Must mean Full Cold and Full Heat ?. Do you think it takes all sensors out of the circuit??

Thanks. Got that info from that site ( see above )Try diagnostics tomorrow.

Thanks, Will do the tests tomorrow. Already have heat working. Had'nt been used for years (live on north coast) Ballina, so, I had engine running and warmed up, and kept changing settings ( temp, mode, manual, auto, etc. Suddenly it worked. All through last summer could only get slightly cool air, so will follow instructions tomorrow. Thanks for help so far, will get back if need more guidance.

Can anyone tell me if the 'heating' on the Air-Con R32 "climate control" whatever is Reverse Cycle air-con, or the old style hot water radiator ?. Can't get hot or warm air. Not very cold in summer, either. Still on old refrige gas.

It's simple, you're wrong. Read ALL the Act - not just the bit that seems to suit your arguement. As for lying down, I never have, I've beaten almost every fine or infringement I've ever been issued {including Camera ones] If even most people 'had a go', the system could'nt cope, and you would'nt get harrased because of the kind of car you drive. Direct some of your energies to fighting for your rights, and fighting petty officials, trying to make themselves important at other ppls expense, not me. Half a brain would tell you, I'm on your side. Like I said, stand up!!

That's true, and if you think about it, why would it be any different? We don't live in a Police State. YET. But, if we don't insist on the rights we have; given time, we will lose them. After that happens, usually the only way to get them back again, is to spill blood.

I'm wasting my time talking sense about this, because just about everyone are wimps and won't have a go "you can't beat them, etc" You're right, you can't if you won't try. The law [any law] is not based on opinion, or the direction of the wind, etc., etc. I looked up the EPA legislation on the net, and of course, it's the same. No guesswork. Things have got to be done according to the law. Just as you are supposed to comply, so have the ppl in the ETA, or the police, or whatever. This does'nt mean they won't try it on, BUT only you can let them get away with it.Stop out of the City on Sat night, etc. What a bloody weak response. For your info [not that anyone will have the bottle to use it] Before an 'Authorised Officer' can issue a notice, which requires rectification, the noise level has to be tested by a quite rigorous proceedure, by a qualified person. Then, and only then can a notice be PROPERLY issued. The legislation says that in a much longer fashion, of course. SO, you can't just get one LEGALLY out of the blue, because you drive a Skyline. So there, I've wasted my time telling you, You can all lie back down again now, ready to get walked on again.

The cops must have some great laughs, seeing what people let them get away with. Just think, that if you went out on the road anywhere, took some number plate details, and made up some stories about them, and reported that to the Police. How much notice would you expect them to take of you? Where would the proof be? Why would anyone in their right mind, even bother to make a statement in defence? Want to be silly enough to charge me with something? Go ahead. As for matching tyres to burn marks - Oh Please - What a great bluff. Some years ago, I was booked by an Officer on a M/bike, for driving through a red light on Parramatta Rd Leichhardt [He came through with me] I went to Court and insisted the light was green. I acknowledged that the officer may well have thought it was red, but so what? Where was the proof? The Magistrate agreed, and dismissed the charge. Don't lie down to petty authority. Stand up and fight.

Um, bad news. Just looked in R32 handbook - says it's a 'Pressure' light.

Is the light a 'Level Warning' OR a 'Pressure Warning" ?? If - level - Not a prob, If - pressure - better find the reason.

R2HKS, you've got a great talent there. Why waste it posting on this site? Science Fiction is your field, you'd make a fortune. Think of the endless possibilities of the plots you could develop, around 'control implants.' No need to confine your theories to mere machines. Just think of the way 'brain implants' could achieve great leaps forward for humanity.

Agree with EVERYTHING Scudboy said. Been driving for a long time. Driven through all the time when outside towns there were NO effective speed limits. It is a way of collecting money. Motorists pay through the nose for everything, and then allow themselves to be brainwashed to believe all the official crud. That's so you'll feel guilty easier, and pay up quietly. It works on most of you. Training makes drivers more confident and more dangerous. Fair dinkum research? I've searched the net for years to try to find some proof of that. Bull!!. That is seriously advancing an arguement that LESS knowledge about something, makes you better at it. Tell me another thing that anyone has ever said you would be better at, if you knew less about it. Brainwashing. The better cars handle, the better the brakes, the better the rubber, the lower, progressively, are the speed limits. Don't think for a moment there were'nt cars around before these universal stupid restrictions, which had high enough performance to test if 'speed' was the killer it's made out to be. In the 1960s I had a car capable of around 220, and it weighed over 2 tonnes. I once averaged a bit over 150 from a place called Kingston South East [i think it was called] yo Mt. Gambier, towing a trailer, all legal, and I'm still alive. You're all being brainwashed.

Yes, as CUBES says, use the compressed air thing. I always do, never had a failure. Did'nt mention it,'cause not everyone has air available. If you have, you can do as good a job as a Rad shop.

That's it for sure -- It'll hurry up the job I see being done on all you 'good little boys and girls' already. My generations fault. We did'nt stop them from grabbing our little freedoms, one at a time, on the basis that they were doing it for our own good. Now you all think it's normal. Leave the so-called "hoons" alone. Rebels are better for us than conformists.

Yes, I agree. Radiator/cooling issues are best handled by Rad specialists, and compared to some other areas of repair, are fairly inexpensive.

To do it right, reverse flushing in car takes a bit of explaining, so I thought, seeing it's so easy to remove radiator, why not do that, turn it upside down, and use as much water pressure as you can, from bottom to top, allowing the water to escape, alternatively, from the filler neck, and the top hose connection point. That would do a pretty good job. Put the water hose in the bottom radiator hose point, and seal it as much as possible, so that all the pressutr water has to travel up through the core to get to top tank. This is the opposite direction of flow to when radiator is in car, which is why it is more effective in removing blockages than flushing top to bottom.

I 'spose it's OK to be an optimist, but enough crankcase pressure to blow dipstick out, indicates excessive blow-by past rings, regardless of Pcv valve. Engines don't usually take your financial position into account, before misbehaving.

Yeah!!!. One of your 'door open switches not being operated.

Got onto Dealer. Car sold couple months ago, sorry.

Hi, I'm 1/2 hours drive from Lismore. Tried to ring Dealer, but no answer so far.. From my experience, Authorities interstate many times won't accept Engineering reports from uther sTATES. mAYBE YOU SHOULD CHECK WITH vICrOADS? cAR SOUNDS TOO GOOD FOR THE PRICE, CONSIDERING THAT ANY OF THE 'APPROVED ENGINEERS' here are pretty thorough, and if done by them, pretty good job. I'll keep trying 'phone # and let you know. {{Shift lock stuck}}

My GTSt same as SteveL s GTR. 2 mounting bolts on top , drain water, remove one end of hoses, unplug wiring connector, lift out [ about 3 minutes. no removal of splash guard , fan, etc., etc. They must have kept changing their minds on the assembly line. Takes longer to drain the water, than anything else.

Don't know. If no one can help, try removing fuzes, one at a time to at least try to get on the right track. I can imagine how annoying it would be.