Jax

Just read this thread.Wish I could talk to you in person. Too difficult writing. -- However, Re lawyers, no good just getting one - need the right one, make local enquiries re someone GOOD at traffic matters.Just because they're lawyers does'nt mean they're good at it, anymore than all mechanics, or all plumbers,etc. Beaten lots of traffic things. You need to remain cool, and remember, and make the point in court, that in traffic matters, like any other, the prosecution needs to PROVE it's case. From what you have said, and the legislation extract you have posted, this cannot be done. Legislation, Point1 This was not tested at the time, therefore NO evidence can be advanced that your system does not comply. POint 2 ... Same as point . Point 3Not Applicable. Point 4. Probably not applicable. That having been said [ and it really is open and shut] it still has to be presented right in Court. It won't do itself. The law won't protect you, but, if done right, it will enable you to protect yourself. By the way you or anybody else, if you get pulled up on this or similar things, DON'T remind them that they can't or arn't testing at the time.. Let them make the mistake.

Best first performance mod you can do is book into a "Performance Driving School' - Later, when you're mate catches up, you can start on the car!!!

Normally just keeps going to the 0 stop. No probs, no damage to anything. It's just not marked out, is all.

I meant R33 for the GTR, Plus I saw a R33 4Seater in Lismore

Ballina. Seen several R32s around, Plus Mgr NBN in Lismore has R32[ I think] GTR

Initially 'Gran Turismo' I think.

WHY is the engine trying to fire backwards? Are you saying it's 'detonation', or pre-ignition? Does'nt the Engine Management cope with this [mixture or timing ] If not, why not, and certainly on Standard Specs road engines, even though the recommended fuel is 98?

Sounds right - Sounds good - Always thought it sounded like G/box noises. Whilst some disagree that you could [should] fit a solid centre clutch plate, it never even occurred to me that anyone would fit a 'heavy duty' Pressure Plate with a normal 'touring type'Clutch Plate, without stronger centre springs. Please tell me I'm wrong and it did'nt happen?

No, sorry, I don't agree. Unless the clutch is engaged when you rev the engine, then you don't bring the engine driven gears up to match the gears driven by the wheels. If you don't get those speeds right [with no,or worn syncros] or close, with good syncros, then the baulk rings will stop the gears meshing. I know nothing about Eastern Creek, left Sydney before it existed, but very familiar with Oran Pk, Amaroo and most other Aust circuits, and agree that, as there are no, to my knowledge,1st gear corners anywhere [unless you lost it] then what you say is OK for circuit racing, BUT, I was addressing the original question of this thread. He needs to get it in 1st., and in an efficient way, and as I do on that round a bout the only way is by doubling the clutch. [There may have been a hillclimb or two around which may have had a 1st gear corner -- maybe there still is?] By the way, some gearboxes won't come out of gear without using clutch - most will so long as throttle is floating or backed off. I had several GTR Toranas and none of them, M21 g/boxes, could be got out of gear without the clutch [not without so much force that you went straight thru neutral into another gear. Lost clutch several times - bloody nightmare] By the way,again - like to see someone enter that round a bout with me and come out in front, without using 1st gear and without doubling clutch - Horses for courses.

Yeah, I looked and found it. My advice to anyone who does'nt already know all about it, to stay away from it. About 50% of it is wrong and the other 50% of it is not right!!! No, it's not quite that bad, but at least 50% of the opinion is wrong and the rest is only slightly more difficult to understand than the theory of relativity. They've all ignored the function of 'baulk rings', which is why Tracid Trax originally thought there was something the matter with his gearbox, because it was just plain not possible to force it in. Therefore,that's why those who say that double de-clutching is'nt necessary, or is a waste of time, are WRONG. It allows you to go into a gear you want to go into, by the use of knowledge and skill, when the wonderful 'Do everything for you - you don't need to know, Syncromesh gearbox' fails. Before anybody trys to explain the double de-clutching method, or what syncromesh does would be well advised to first find out how a basic gearbox works.

Can someone tell me,technically and factually, just what 'blows up' an engine, hard worked or not, if running on lower octane fuel than it was tuned on ? And , What 'lets go' or fails? This is a serious question. I must admit, I can't see it myself, but I'm certainly open to facts, and to be convinced.

We sure do get some funny opinions on here. Like the [apparently] commonly held view that there is something technically wrong with changing back to 1st gear. No more than changing back to any lower gear! If you syncronise the speed of rotation of the gear driven by the engine, with that of the gear driven by the wheels - Viola!! or Presto!!! or whatever, then they will mesh easily and silently, and no damage done, and why not? The syncromesh normally does this for you, but it becomes harder for the mechanism to syncronise speeds, the lower the gear, and the further apart are the revs of the 2 gears. Don't think my one finger could take writing a full description of how and why on this, however........ You actually can do this syncronising yourself by "double-declutching" sometimes known as 'doubling the clutch',which among other things will make your Syncros last virtually forever. It's a slower method of changing, but I habitually do it all the time, except when some nut 'has a go' and annoys me. If anybody really wants a run-down of how to do it,I will,reluctantly write it up. Trouble is, it sounds much more complex than it is, albeit after a bit of practice. With that in mind,when I went out to-day, I thought I'd see just what was possible [R32 GTSt] -- The first surprise I got was at the 1st Round a bout, when I found that I normally change back into 1st at between 15 and20k, because the exit of this round a bout, goes into one lane and there is mostly some Galah, who has gone around the outside, and is going to beat you to the one lane.. NOT!!! I found that I do the change back to 1st so naturally, that I was not even aware of it. So,,,,,,, I did some experiments and found it perfectly easy up to 30k. Got more difficult over 35k, in that you needed to be more precise with revs. As around 40k is about [i find] about the fastest USEFUL speed when going UP in 1st gear, there was'nt much point in trying anything else, but it would be possible, but useless, up to your rev limit.

Not the gearbox-----Driver. Pity you're so far away, I'd teach you how to do it !!

There's no "better" or "worse" in heat ranges. The heat range the manufacturer says is worked out by the combustion dynamics of the standard engine. Generally speaking the closer the insulation comes to the end of the centre electrode the cooler the plug. That is because the amount of metal protruding without being in contact with material which can dissipate the heat is less. A couple of simple examples as to why heat ranges may be changed with advantage would be in,say, a worn engine, burning some oil and running on lower compression, may tend to oil up plugs and misfire. A hotter plug would burn off the oil and not misfire. An engine with ,say, greater boost or compression,may tend to 'pre-ignite' fuel producing 'running - on' or 'knocking', because the centre electrode glows red hot and ignites the fuel prematutely. A cooler plug would fix it. Whilst that is unlikely with modern Engine Management systems, the measures to fix it [mods to fuel,mixture,timing,etc] damp down performance. Prob the only real way with a Modified engine, is a supply of different plugs and a dyno THERE"S A HAPPY THOUGHT.

I'm a bit puzzled by what appears to be current normal practice, of fitting a 'spring centre' clutch plate with an increased pressure Pressure Plate. Originally, all clutch plates were solid, that is no cushion centre. The sprung centre was introduced to compensate for the general lack of skill of drivers in co-ordinating the clutch take-up with revs and the range of types of take-off from slow and gentle to full power for maximum initial acceleration. In the 60s - 70s you would seldom combine a upgraded Pressure Plate with a 'Touring' type Clutch Plate. Even in reasonably recent times [ and possibly still currently in V8 Supercars] in, say, Production Touring Cars, as raced at Bathurst, and almost certainly the GTRs of the early 90s solid centre Clutch Plates would have been used, I would have thought. I would strongly advise that anyone fitting 'heavy duty' clutches, do the same to-day. It's almost a contradiction in terms not to. They're not as easy to work smoothly in heavy traffic conditions, but when you learn to use them they are more consistant and reliable for all conditions.

Don't know about the reversing problems, - But, the other noises seem to say 'gearbox' rather than clutch. [including differences cold to hot] Let us know what is found.

Don't bet your next year's salary on that!!

You can get same problem with out-of-balance drive shafts.,worn CV joints or Universals., Can feel exactly the same as Wheel balance.

If it does'nt slip, don't waste your time and money, untill and unless it does. You'll be able to find a technique with revs and left foot which will eliminate shudder.

There's a post on tyres and prices in the QLD forum. He was quoted on Potenza's, among others. Worth your while looking at it.

Seeing that the same lever opens the fuel filler cover, can you get at the cable thru or near that cover, or from inside the rear mudguard? [need to remove the plastic inner guard thingo]

Counted 37 that I can remember, not going to list them - A few of them, almost nobody would recognise the names............. like Essex,Bristol, Alvis, Lagonda..........

I have a post in Gen Maint on how to remove Clutch from Air/Con Compressor, under Air/Con R32 GTSt HELP, which might be useful in FAQs Tutorials, etc, but don't know how to move??

Why not go to your nearest Nissan Dealer, they'll prob have it in the next working day from when you order it!??

Always had 1st class service from both local Nissan Dealers in this area - Lismore and Ballina. I think it's great that Nissan has made the decision to stock parts fot 'imports', and I always buy Original rather than Aftermarket parts [except, like, bearings] which you'ld NEVER buy for any make car from a dealership. Believe me, not everyone will supply parts ,even if they have them in stock, which are for an 'import'. Anyone don't believe me, try buying a part for an 'import' Kobota engine,if the Model No. shows it as not an Australian model. Any retailer only stocks or supplies goods which 'move' which is why I buy genuine, and the more of us that go to the Nissan Dealer 1st, rather than later or never, will help ensure a parts supply on into the future.