Jax

What area in Sydney you live? Maybe someone can suggest an Auto Electrician, who won't rip you off??

Whoh, there - Could be just the circuit to the solonoid. If you don't have any chance of looking yourself, see an Auto/Lec. Could be pretty simple.

Yoy'll prob be sorry if you go away from the Potenza's, but have a look at Firestone Firehawks

Ta, Sounds good, Are the plugs same as link below? http://www.installdr.com/Harness/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

DON'T drive it!! When you get it out, have a quick look inside. Should be easy to see what's bent or broken. You have'nt lent it to any of your mates lalely, have you?.. Any of your mates [or girlfriends] sort of fairly hairy, with longish arms?? Sounds like only a bloody Gorilla could do that much damage, changing gear.

About the most important thing when storing or not using car for long period, is brake fluid. For preference,you should bleed the system right through, so that there is NEW fluid right through the system. Reason ? Brake fluid absorbs moistute, which is why you should renew it every 12 or 18 months anyhow. Moisture lowers the boiling point, and makes brake fade easier. When stored, the moisture can cause rings of corrosion adjacent to seals [especially in wheel slave cylinders] and later cause seal leakage, and occasionally fairly sudden brake failure. This does'nt normally happen when car being used [even with old fluid] as the pistons keep being moved, preventing any corrosion build-up.

Had it serviced lately ? - sounds like an anti-corrosion application,that I've seen used.

Still looking

I might have one [ Ballina - Northern NSW] Off R32 GTSt. Got it from Tassy, said to work, Idid'nt fit it, as it was the clutch wiring burnt out, I replaced that in situ {did'nt fancy removing engine.} If you don't find anything local, get in touch. Have description / numbers, etc, if they mean anything to you [ 02 66869108 ]

Audio and Security sounds like a REAL GOOD idea.

Anyone got any standard one, that works in Australia, that they want to sell? Mine stopped and no sound place will try to fix it. They all want to sell me something else, but I particularly want to just plug it in and have use of the switches on the dash next to the "hazard light switch" which change stations and select AM / FM. Anyone help?

Yeah -- Know about practicality...............Pity you live so far away from me, you could do mine next time, I can't get even close to that 1/2 hour. Jeeeeszuss, that would be worth watching.

Still have'nt found it. Been looking around, different locations for different Models. 1992 R32 - GTSt. Trouble is, it suddenly got hard to start, hot or cold. There is no 'Pump Soumd' for a few seconds when ignition turned on, like there used to be. When it starts it's then OK. Strange....... Anyone got any clues?

Anyone know where the Fuel Pump Relay is located on RB20DET - Does'nt seem to be in any of my diagrams. Ta.

All should have a look at other post "spark plug gap dilema"

Those who said don't reduce gap, are right. Only 2 things make engine go, Fuel and Combustion [ Spark]. If you make fuel side better [no matter how] it is counterproductive to make fire smaller - which reducing gap does - Upgrade ignition to at least keep up with mods to fuel side. Factory recommends 1.1 / 1.2 for just about all models, don't go below that. Just put set in R32 GTSt @110000klm NGKs PFR6A-11, same as those that came out, which still appear perfect,inc gaps. The 11 on the end of the number on NGKs indicates 1.1 - 12 would be 1.2, 9 would be 0.9, etc.

Depends on the size of any loop, and therefore the size of bubble. Very little fluid is displaced to apply brakes. Pads run virtually touching discs. All you have to do is compress the air in line. Believe me, it is not a new problem. One model of 'Falcon' late 60s or early70s was virtually impossible , and there's been plenty of others, through this one cause.

To remove gunk from radiator, it is obviously best to reverse the water flow through it! Normally, the water flows from top to bottom. If you remove the radiator cap, and the bottom hose, and use a garden hose from the bottom [preferably sealed as much as possible - wrap a rag or something around it.., it will remove UPWARDS that which has lodged in tubes from above. The thermostat will stop flow to other parts, so that this will concentrate on cleaning rad. Then use other suggestions to flush out block,etc. Think about where the flow is going when you're doing these things, so that you don't dislodge rubbish from,say, block,and deposit it in radiator. Remember that larger pieces may be dislodged than can't pass thru radiator tubes, so you can actually make it worse, if you're not thinking.

Sounds like you still have air in system. Some vehicles, always, have been harder to bleed than others, and really need "pressure bleeding". With that you pass a greater volume of fluid thru, in less time, which can move a pocket of air, which just ocillates back and forward with the amount of fluid displaced by just a pedal stroke. Imagine a loop of brakeline, with a little pocket of air in top of loop, unless you can displace enough fluid,you will just force the air bubble downwards,but not far enough to get it out thru the nipple. Stop bleeding and it goes bach to top of loop. Sometimes, if you can identify such high spots, you can jack up that side [or end] of car and succeed with bleeding.

Fellars, Dont overfill gearboxes, can promote all sorts of trouble, specially with seals. Capacities RB20E 2 Litres, RB25DE 2.5 Litres, RB25DET 2.8 Litres. 4WD 4.1 Litres. Figures from Handbooks. No figures for RB20DET - prob 2.5 / 2.8 Litres?

Have a look at other post here "Air Con R32 GTSt HELP." I Have an R32 compressor, which I'm told works, and seems to check out OK {definately the clutch does}, but I baulked at fitting it. Definately looks like Engine out job.

To Iwells Had a bit of 'puter trouble, back now. Re your questions, - If you can remove Clutch assmb., then gas remains in system. Test with Ampmeter? - Remove Air/Con relay, and connect meter between terminals 3 and 5. It's hardly worth bothering, if it's blowing #10 fuze [which must be replaced before doing foregoing test] as that is virtually certain to indicate Clutch winding. Can't help you with connector - the only one I know is mounted on top of the compressor,just behind the pulley/clutch assembly, and is very difficult to reach. CLUTCH DISSEMBLY IN SITU. Basically the pulley/clutch assmbly is in three parts 1. The clutch pressure plate. 2 The driving pulley 3. The electro/magnetic coil winding assmbly. They are removed in that order. First,remove radiator. This is easy, remove both top brackets, drain water, Remove top and bottom radiator hoses from radiator ends,and wiring connector from R/H side of radiator, then lift it out. When refilling later, remove bleed screw,which you will see illustrated in Manual. That's the last easy bit. For the moment, leave the belt on and tensioned. Remove the 'splash guard' from underneath. Now remove the stud from centre of clutch pulley [leaving the belt on helps to hold the pulley while you do this,and the next operation.] The stud you have now removed threads into the compressor drive shaft and passed through the 'clutch pressure plate'. you now need to tap a thread into that hole in the 'pressure plate'. 5/16 Whitworth is a suitable size. You now need to make a suitable puller,which will rest upon the outer circumfernce of the pulley,allowing clearance from the outer circumference of the 'pressure plate', bridged across the centre,with a hole in centre bridge which will give clearance to a stud with a matching thread to that which you have just tapped. Thread a nut onto a stud [set-screw] , with a thread on all it's length, pass the stud through the hole in puller and thread into the thread you tapped. Screw the nut down onto the puller centre bridge,which removes the 'pressure plate'. Now undo the tensioner, and remove the drive belt. The next item is the pulley[with bearings] This is held on a sleeve by a circlip. There are 2 types of basic circlips - internal and external, both of which need special 'circlip'plyers to remove. this is an 'external' circlip. Circlip plyers come in a variety of sizes [for each type of circlip] and in straight and bent nose. you will need both straight and bent nose to remove and replace the circlip. With the circlip removed, the pulley can be removed. May need gentle tapping with small hammer, while pulling to-wards front of vehicle. Now only the clutch winding section is left. There are at least 2 types for R32. One is secured by circlip. Remove the same as pulley removal. The other is secured by 3 philips-head screws onto the alloy housing of the compressor. I would suggest that a screwdriver bit, adapted into a ratchet socket handle would be ideal,as slipping out of the slot in the screw head could damage the slot and make removal very difficult. After removal of the circlip or screws ,the clutch winding section will come away easily. Pull it out a little and unplug the connector AND YOU'RE DONE. Reading through this, I think it's been almost harder to describe than to do. I hope you can make sense of it. Jax. :ufo:

To find out if windings are "cooked" or on their way out, run the comp thru an ammeter. If no draw at all,windings completely gone. Any reading above 1 or 2 amps means partly burnt out, and will only work for very limited time. TURN IT OFF UNTIL REPAIRED. There are at least two different clutches [and therefore windings] If you want to disassemble clutch in situ, let me know and I'll try to write a description. I'ts rather tricky.

Sorry, have'nt been on site for a while. Sounds like burnt clutch windings. Dont keep switching it on as the current draw will get greater as the windings get worse, and you may damage something else, as mine did. Fixed now. I decided compressor too hard to get out, so i REMOVED CLUTCH ASSEMBLY OFF COMPRESSOR. gOT A MOTOR REWINDER TO REWIND COIL. oNLY COST $110. wORKS PERFECTLY. sHORT OF TIME AT MOMENT, i'LL LOOK IN AGAIN LATER.

HELP Got Auto/Lec wotking on Climate Control Air/ con now. We can't locate the "Auto Amplifier" Anyono point us in the direction of it's physical location? Soon as poss, please!!