Jax

That's fine, but what if you wanted to get the pump right out - could you? Could you remove the gas lines and get them back on again? With the engine in? Anyone?

I'm curious, anyone actually removed one of these themselves? As a one-off job, not associated with some reason to have , say, engine out? I really can't see how it can be done. Does'nt much matter whether R32 R33 GRS or GTR - All much the same. With a burnt out clutch coil, I made a puller and have removed the pulley and coil, and am seeing about getting the coil re-wound. Getting this far was "reasonably" easy, but I'd love to know if anybody has ever removed the pump, with engine in.

Just forget about number and try bearing supplier with inside and outside diameter and width.

Yes, they did'nt change at any particular time, they were an option. I have a handbook that seems to say that. Same with radios/ Tape players, etc.

Pedantic???? That's one word for it. Luckily, it is probably not practical to convert. Prob some wires missing from loom, etc.,. If you ever get some of the weird problems that the Climate Control can throw at you,just in order to not have to turn something up, down or off, you'll wonder why you wanted it.

Tom, It came out of a R32 GTSt in Tassie. Making it into a competition car. Did'nt need A/C, obviously. Should have fitted mine, if all R32, GTSt's were the same, which they're obviously not. Virtually not possible to see anything from the top. Reasonable view from underneath, once cover removed {easy}. Unless you either remove yours [looks almost impossible], or can get a mirror to look at labels, don't know how you could tell if the one I have would fit. On mine, the mounting bracket and holes look right, but the pulley is out of alignment. Could even be that it is as simple as a different belt set-up? Not being in a city, it's almost impossible to look at others to compare. Sorry can't be of more help. Thanks for the leads on coil winding, i'll follow it up. With radiator out [easy] it looks like a fairly simple job, in comparison to removing compressor] to take the complete clutch and pulley off, so if can be rewound, is comparatively easy, and cheap, solution. New compressor about $1300.

Have trouble with A/C Comp. Got another one, but not right for my R32GTSt [1992 Mod] Bloke I got it from, just recently removed it and tells me it works fine. I have checked out the magnetic clutch - it's OK. I've got to find another one. This one's details are MAKE DieselKiki TYPE DKV-14C PART No. 509630 - 8084 SERIAL No.C747957469 There's also a red Stick On Label, with these numbers 92600-51S0 509640-0624 Anyone out there ready to kill for this, while I try to find the right one for me? Also, years ago, ppl used to rewind electric clutches [ like they do electric motors]. Anyone know anybody who still does this?

No replies yet? Must be holiday season. Sunload sensor probably nothing to do with it. Always seems to come up on diagnostics. First check fuzes 10 and 20. If 10 fuze blown, next look to compressor clutch ....................... . You'll find wiring diagrams floating around this site which will take you further,etc..

No replies yet? Must be holiday season. Sunload sensor probably nothing to do with it. Always seems to come up on diagnostics. First check fuzes 10 and 20. If 10 fuze blown, next look to compressor clutch ....................... . You'll find wiring diagrams floating around this site which will take you further,etc..

IF your pressure is OK, And your magnetic clutch is OK, and current gets thru the pressure switch, then earthing it After the pressure switch will switch on yout Aip-Con. Wire 9 does earth thet wire inthe ECCU, but it gets a signal from wire 46 to enable it to do so. I havent worked out why yet, got similar prob to yours. Still working on it. Voltage @ 9 with A/C ON abt 1 volt ?? A/C OFF - Supply Voltage. If you find prob, please post. May help me. Don't now what long-term result may be from earthing after pressure switch, though it appears to have no ill-effect.

Yeah go back on this a few pages - Page 4, I think, and you'll find a couple of fuze diagrams

Try http://www.jpnz.co.nz and be surprised.

Thanks for the info, Tom, it will all be useful. Funny, in most respects the bits of diagram I have are more comprehensive than that which you sent, BUT yours has more detail in the ECCS area than mine. I think it 'mazing! I was just lucky with compressor. The day it failed, I looked on e-Bay, and there was one just removed from race car in Tassie. I was only bidder, and postage was more expensive than Comp. My Air/Con man said he could get one for around $1300, local Nissan Dealer also around that, I believe. Thanks again Jax

Air Conditioning stopped. I've traced faults a fair way, but now hit the wall. It's the fully auto system, though I don't believe any of the "auto" features are relevant to my problems. Not being in a metropolitan area, even if I get AutoLec help, I've probably got more chance of success if I can locate the faults myself. Firstly, the basics of the parts of the circuits that matter, are fairly simple. 1. From ignition,thru an ACC relay,thru a fuze [#20], to the Air/Con relay, thru a pressure switch, to the ECCS unit, and PRESUMABLY to Earth. 2. From ignition, thru a fuze [#10] thru the Air/Con relay points [closed when relay called, above] to the Magnetic Clutch on the Compressor to Earth. What happened? Magnetic Clutch windings ere "cooked", and though still working,draw too much current, and blew #10 fuze. At the time,not knowing what the problem was, replaced fuze. Air/Con worked for a while, then blew fuze again. Found problem with Clutch, and have obtained a replacement, BUT Have found that now the Air/Con relay [see 1. above] does not operate. Have tested the Relay - O.K. Have voltage to the Relay, thru the Relay, to and thru the Pressure Switch. A wire,thru a test lamp,after the Pressure Switch, to Earth, operates the Relay, and Air/Con works. Question: After the Pressure Switch the circuit goes to the ECCS unit. Does anyone know why, and what happens there? it seems to me that all we need is an Earth, but I'm only used to old time auto electrics, and I'm obviously wrong. This wire from Pressure Switch, I think, is supposed to go to terminal 46 on the ECCS unit, and is supposed to carry "Power Voltage" when Air/Con is 'off' and Zero Voltage when Air/Con is 'on'. I have "Power Voltage" on terminal 46 'on' or 'off.' Can anyone help?? I hope.

First look at fuzes 10 and 20 [ under dash] Numbered as you look at the diagram on fuze cover, left to right, top to bottom.

Don't know if this will help you, but someone, maybe. Ihave translated Fuze markings on R32 GTSt [near bonnet release] Starting at top left and finishing on bottom right,there are 26 fuze positions. 1 to 26 are as follows. - 4WD, ???, Transmission Control, Motor, ???, Wipers, Engine Control, Fuel pump, Audio, Air conditioning,Rear Wiper/Mirror, Cigarette Lighter,Fog Light, That is top row. BOTTOM ROW - Air bag, Anti skid, ? starter, Hazard Lights, Lock Shift, Tail lights, Air conditioning, Meters, Turn signal, ???, Brake lights,Inside Lights, Rear demister.. As you can see, they're not complete, but better than Japanese Characters.

Has anyone managed to get hold of one of these? I've tried 2 dealers [ part # EG1180 0000 ] Both dealers found it and seemed to confirm it's availability, but said it was a "dealer only" part. Any clues anyone?