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Russell2208

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Everything posted by Russell2208

  1. Yes the ETS controller light is on, in auto mode it is a bit dim, in manual mode it adjusts brightness with the dial. The wiring for the controller is 12V ign to the red wire, ground to green wire, tps to blue wire, solenoid wires to black and white and the handbrake wire, brown, I have not connected to anything (you would ground this for rwd). Please correct me if I have that wrong. The pump I have connected to a relay like such. I hear the pump power on and stop when at pressure. I don’t think I have this incorrect?
  2. I have confirmed the failsafe solenoid clicks with 12V on one side and ground on the other. Still no 4wd though. Now I guess the only part left is the ETS solenoid. I don’t hear this click when in manual mode and adjusting the dial. I’m going to reach out to the manufacturer and ask what the correct outputs should be from the black and white solenoid wires. Perhaps there is a fault with the unit. Or if anyone has a unit and they could tell me what voltages come from the black and white wires when not connected to anything. That would be appreciated
  3. I can’t tell if the failsafe solenoid is opening or closing when powering it. I put the factory system back in for a sanity check that the system still works. It does, factory 4wd works. Was going to try wiring the new system to the ETS solenoid and leaving all the factory relays ecu in place. But realised the stock attesa computer shuts off all the relays when the ETS solenoid is disconnected. I could try get a resistor to be a dummy load over the factory ets solenoid. If only there was a spec sheet for the solenoids so I could understand how they work.
  4. Thanks for trying to help me mate. I tried it tonight with the failsafe solenoid with 12V IGN on one side and ground on the other side. No 4wd. Just spinning the rear. Even when setting the controller to manual mode and full locked 4wd. I might try keep all the factory wiring in place and just have the FullRace system control the ETS solenoid. However, I would much prefer to hardwire all the system so that I can ditch the Attesa ECU.
  5. I don’t think it is ground. From factory it has 12v switched to one side of the ETS solenoid and the failsafe solenoid. Then the factory ets ecu has a pinout to send voltage to the otherside of the solenoids. I can see the ETS solenoid ranges from 0-3.3V to control the pressure to the transfer case. Im just not sure what voltage goes to the failsafe. I’m wanting to hardware these solenoids to avoid using the factory computer. I’ll link the factory R33 wiring here.
  6. This is the section I am confused about. 12V to one side of the safety solenoid, but what to the other side? All the other wiring I have no issues with. Instructions can be found https://www.full-race.com/ets-pro-nissan-skyline-gt-r-center-differential-attesa-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34 And https://www.full-race.com/resources/installation-instructions/ets-pro-universal-install-guide
  7. Hello, I am in the middle of installing the attesa ets pro in my r33 gtr non vspec and am confused with how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 12V switched to one side? And then ground or 2V to the other? Has anyone installed the ets pro to an attesa system with the safety solenoid? I can not find any information on how the safety solenoid should be wired up. cheers
  8. Same thing happens to me. Have tried swapping wheels around and get no difference. I am just on standard r33 gtr rims too 245/45. Did swapping the tires around make a difference for you? Attached picture says the rolling diameters must be different for it to flash like this.
  9. It's as if someone has over tightened the nut causing the stud thread to be stripped. The nut does not want to come off, it's just stuck on that spot of the stud spin-able. The car is still drive-able, I just cant swap in my coilovers.
  10. Hi Guys, I have gone to put front coilovers in my R33 GTR and noticed that the nut at the bottom of the strut just spins on the stud. Does anyone know if the stud can be replaced or do I have to source myself a new front extension knuckle arm. Pictures below for reference. Cheers
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